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During World War II, this peaceful town on the edge of Europe buzzed with exiled royalty and spies trawling for news. Cascais still draws in the crowds, and it has kept its laidback and carefree atmosphere. Weekend lovebirds mingle happily here with strolling families and sunbaked surfers, while yachts bob alongside the brightly painted fishing boats in the bay. The relaxed elegance of the town and its hip restaurants and friendly bars make for perhaps the most sophisticated spot on the Portuguese Riviera.
For a slice of street theatre, head to the harbourside at dusk and watch the fisherman selling the day’s catch. You may not be in the market for a whole side of salmon, but it’s a fabulous spectacle nonetheless.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Cascais
Perched on an outcrop of rock a few feet from the Atlantic Ocean, Farol Design Hotel marries a traditional Portuguese villa with a modern wing.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
The perfect place for a light seafood snack and a glass of port on the balcony. Heartier appetites should try the lunchtime special of superb paella.
Avenida Valbom, 1, Cascais
This cafe has been serving delicious custard tarts since 1837. The top-secret recipe was apparently acquired from some hard-up monks.
Rua de Belem, 84-92, Belem, Lisbon
After watching the sun set behind the cliffs, head to this place in Azoia. This traditional seafood restaurant, with its wooden decor and huge lobster tanks, has an easygoing informality.
Estrada do Cabo da Roca, 27, Azoia, Colares
A short distance from Guincho beach, and with an ocean view as perfect as the fresh seafood, this restaurant is one place where you'll definitely want to reserve a window table.
Estada do Guincho, up the coast from Cascais
An ‘industrial chic’ waterfront eaterie in Lisbon’s Santos district, built in a former factory, you’ll be served a ‘chef's secret’ - a very small bowl of the daily soup before your main course arrives.
Rua da Cintura, Lisbon
Lisbon's hippest restaurant—located at the docks and partly owned by actor John Malkovich —specialises in contemporary twists on Portuguese classics, such as codfish salad with chickpea ice cream.
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém B, Lisbon
An opulent rendezvous in Lisbon’s buzzing Bairro Alto flea market, which is decorated with enough kitsch to fill half the attics of London. Fascinating.
Rua Dom Pedro V, 89, Lisbon
In the riverside Docas area, next to Bica do Sapato, is this chic club where the glamorous go to pose with a caipirinha.
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Amazem A, Cais da Pedra, Lisbon
Just in case you happen to be feeling homesick, near Cascais is a friendly London-style pub which is open until 3h30 every night.
Rua Marquês Leal Pancada, 16a
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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