Printable destination guide
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Essaouira
Morocco
- Coastline
- Ramparts, rudders and beach, beach, beach
- Coast life
- Windsurfers and wanderers
For all it has in common with other chilled-out seaside spots around the world – clean air, ocean-view restaurants – this old hippie hang-out is out there on its own as a surfer's paradise with a kasbah.
Clinging to Morocco’s Atlantic coast, Essaouira swaps the rose hues of the mountain towns for sparkling whitewash and blue shutters. The pretty medina is confined within solid great ramparts, and sidles up to a 18th-century military harbour. But both are dwarfed by the vast sweep of beach that runs along the approach to the city. In true Maghreb style, the sights to see are the quotidian ones: djellaba’d men whiz by on motorbikes, the port’s clamour competes with gnaoua-soundtracked cafés and the call to prayer – but forget comparing the pace of life of the souks here to Marrakech. Everything happens in a distinctly lower gear, and a wonderful air of insouciance prevails. Fish-fed cats snooze in carved Moorish horseshoe archways; graffiti is scratched on medieval doors; glimpses of shady courtyards and dim passageways lure you to yet another mint tea. Contented, cosmopolitan and cool without caring about it, Essaouira is a jaded urbanite’s delight.
Pictured: Madada Mogador
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Essaouira
more
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
more
Highlights the best Essaouira has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
more
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Essaouira.
more
We can't promise you won't get lost in the souk but our handy interactive map of Essaouira will help you find your way out again.
more
Local knowledge
- Taxis
- You probably won’t need any transport while you’re staying here, as restaurants and sights are never more than a ten-minute walk away, but if you do fancy a day trip, your hotel can organise you a driver.
- Tipping culture
- Leave the usual ten per cent-ish tip; give porters and anyone who helps escort you to your desired destination five or ten dirhams.
- Packing tips
- A cagoule or windcheater might not go amiss; water-sports fans should definitely take their wetsuit.
- Recommended reads
- Points in Time by Paul Bowles.
- Cuisine
- This is the place to eat delicious fresh fish: calamari, lobster, sardines galore – and sea urchins for the more adventurous.
- Currency
- The Dirham (Dh).
- Dialing codes
- The code for Morocco: +212.
- Do go/don't go
- The north-westerly winds can be fierce here, but this only makes it extra-alluring to windsurfers, especially between March and September. When Marrakech is at its most scalding in the summer months, Essaouira can make for a balmy alternative.
Essaouira hotels
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Essaouira
-
- Style
- Parisian apartment
- Setting
- Ocean-view ramparts
- Rates from
- EUR 110
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- Style
- Ocean-liner elegance
- Setting
- No-worry, no-hurry ancient port
- Rates from
- EUR 220
Getting there
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
- Planes
- The nearest airport is the tiny Aeroport de Mogador, but flights tend only to be from Casablanca and Paris. Marrakech’s airport is two and a half hours away by car. Direct flights from Gatwick and Heathrow to Marrakech and Caablanca with Royal Air Maroc, GB Airways and Air France; from July 2006, EasyJet starts flying from Gatwick.
- Trains
- There aren’t any trains, but you can get a coach from Marrakech and Agadir through Supratours (+212 (0)24 435525); the journey takes around three or four hours and costs up to 200dh return.
- Automobiles
- No cars are allowed in the medina, so there’s not much need to have your own car in this compact seaside town, but if you do drive there, parking is easy. You can get a taxi to or from Marrakech for around 800dh and the journey takes about two hours.
Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best Essaouira has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
Essentially Essaouira
Visit the women’s co-operative, where there's quality argan oil and cream for sale in Tamanar, about ten minutes walk out of town. And keep your eyes peeled: the locals climb up the argan trees and place goats in the branches for the amusement of passing camera-brandishing tourists.
- Viewpoint
- Fittingly, the word 'Essaouira' means 'image' – it's appropriate to keep your eyes peeled. Walk along the ramparts along Skala de la Ville for a spectacular sea view, particularly delightful at sunset.
- Arts and culture
- There is only one museum, Musée des Arts et Traditions Populaire (Sidi Mohamed Ben Abdellah Museum). It’s a 19th-century mansion where local crafts, such as woodwork and carpets, are displayed, as well as photos of yesteryear and gnaoua costumes. Fans of world music should earmark the annual Festival d’Essaouira, which sees thousands descend on the town for four days of live bands and carnival-style partying (see the Diary section). The gnaoua are descendents of sub-Saharan slaves, and this is reflected in their music's striking blues feel.
- Something for nothing
- Get an eyeful of some of the wild and colourful local art by doing some snooping at Galerie des Arts Frédéric. Head to Damgaard on Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafiaa (+212 (0)24 784446).
- Shopping
- The main street of the souks is mostly made up of greengrocers and butchers, but swerve towards Rue Mohammed Ben Abdallah and wander the narrow streets off it, browsing the trinket troves bursting with thuya-wood crafts and peek into artisan workshops. Head for the centre of the souks if you want to pick up some argan oil and spices. To take home some gnaoua and Arab-Andalusian sounds for souvenirs, seek out Mogador Music at 52 avenue de l’Istiqlal.
- And...
- Book a 4x4 quadbike daytrip through Ocean Vagabond on Boulevard Mohammed V on the beach (+212 (0)61 135644; www.oceanvagabond.com), and spend half a day traversing the miles and miles of sand. You can also take a camel ride around the bay up to the ruined fort of Borj El Berod, or go horse-riding or kite-surfing.
Diary
- June Musicians from Europe, America and across Africa flock with their rhythms, beats and bass to perform at the Festival d’Essaouira (www.festival-gnaoua.co.ma). July and August Windsurfing contests.
Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Essaouira.
Cafés
Stall 14, Calvados
The fishermen display their catch in the harbour every afternoon; choose what you want to eat and they cook it. This stall was our favourite.
Gelateria Dolce Freddo
Buy a day-old newspaper from home, have an early-morning coffee, and watch the fishermen head to their blue-hulled boats in the harbour. If you have a hankering for Italian coffee, pull up a chair at this place.
Place Moulay Hassan
Stall 14, Calvados
The fishermen display their catch in the harbour every afternoon; choose what you want to eat and they cook it. This stall was our favourite.
Restaurants
Le Chalet de la Plage
A cosy, wooden-panelled Essaouira institution at 1 boulevard Mohamed V, where the sea urchins are fresh, the sea bream gleaming, and the waiters dignified. There’s pigeon and pasta on the menu, but you’ll want something piscine, with the Atlantic crashing away just beyond the terrace.
(+212 (0)24 475972)
Le Cinq
This restaurant on Rue Youssef El Fassi is the sister resto of nearby Madada Mogador. Giant lightshades and a purple/pink palette make a Euro-style statement of this largely couscous-free zone, where you can eat coquilles St Jacques or beef carpaccio followed by molten-chocolate cake. Closed on Tuesdays.
(+212 (0)24 784726)
Chez Sam
This unassuming shack on the tip of Port de Pêche will assuage your fresh-fish hankerings.
(+212 (0)24 476238)
Taros
The mod Maroc food makes this restaurant on Place Moulay Hassan a prime spot for lunch on the terrace overlooking the harbour, or cocktails and snacks in the evenings.
(+212 (0)24 476407)
Les Alizés Mogador
For a reasonably priced dinner of Moroccan home cooking, this relaxed candlelit venue at 26 rue de la Skala (no credit cards) is a great spot to seek out.
(+212 (0)24 476819)
Bars and clubs
the Piano Bar, Sofitel Mogador
There's not much Western-style nightlife in laidback Essaouira, but this venue offers a variation on the Lost in Translation theme.
Avenue Mohamed V
+ 212 (0) 44-479000
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith