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Perched on the south-western Pacific coast of Mexico, little-known Colima is the third smallest state in the union, hemmed in by touristy Jalisco to the north and cultural Michoacán to the south. The southern tip of the Sierra Madre mountains cascades down into the state, creating dramatic gorges and rivers, and the skyline is dominated by two huge volcanoes, one dormant and one the most active in country, the volcán de fuego, which looms over the state capital Colima, sporadically puffing out spires of smoke into the deep blue Mexican sky. Apart from a few urban pockets, such as the state capital, Colima, and resort town Manzanillo, this is ranchers’ territory, where cowboys-turned-businessmen top sharp suits with ten-gallon hats, and vast ranches dominate the terrain – making horse riding one of the best ways to explore. Colima’s also one of Mexico’s most fertile regions, producing coffee, coconuts and a cornucopian collection of tropical fruit. Plus, with a landscape rich with rainforest and wildlife, it’s a haven for naturalists, eco-adventurers, and anyone who knows a modern day Eden when they see one.
Some of the most instantly recognisable symbols of Colima are the perros cebados, ceramic sculptures of small, fat, hairless dogs that were once a prehispanic tradition, and today fill the craft shops and street stalls of the state. The dogs themselves, known as Techichi or Escuincle, were relatives of the Chihuahua and Xoloitzcuintle (Mexican hairless) and were bred for their healing properties, talents as guard dogs, and the fact they made for a tasty barbecue.
…stopping at a roadside coconut stall for a refreshing, machete-prepared snack.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Colima
Hidden in the highlands of western Mexico, the Goldsmith family’s impeccably restored 19th-century Hacienda de San Antonio is a coral pink picture of perfection, with glorious green grounds, volcano vistas and fit-for-royalty service.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
February Like Valencia’s Las Fallas, but on a smaller scale, the Fiestas Charrotaurinas in Colima sees the city streets fill with puppet parades, traditionally parodying important state figures. March Los Paspaques de Suchitlán in Comala is a Nahua agricultural festival venerating maize. Naturally, tacos, tortillas and tamales are consumed by the plate-load.
Hotel Ceballos’ street café at the plaza Jardín de Libertad dishes out delicious regional snacks and meals to enjoy beside the park, and there’s live guitar music every Thursday and Sunday.
12 Portal Medellín, Colonia Centro, C.P. 28000 Colima
Dine under the orange trees in a charming little patio at this pleasant restaurant by the San Jose church, which serves an array of freshly prapred, authentic Mexican dishes – including an excellent mole.
Calle Cinco de Mayo, Colima
For a break from Mexican cuisine, try this popular seaside spot serving French, Italian and Spanish dishes with an emphasis on fresh seafood –the lobster’s a surefire winner, as is the giant shrimp wrapped in bacon.
3177 Bulevar Miguel de la Madris , Las Brisas, Manzanillo
Overlooking dramatic rocky outcrops and a small cove, this stunningly situated international eatery even has its own pool fro a preprandial dip. Cliff-top cocktails at sunset are unmissable.
Cerro del Cenicero, Manzanillo
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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