Printable destination guide
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Colima
Mexico
- Countryside
- Ranches and rivers
- Country life
- Pastoral pueblos
Small and volcanically formed, Colima is the legendary domain of Mexico’s gods, who gaze down from the skies at the sweeping valleys, vast, open ranches, and dense subtropical jungle.
Perched on the south-western Pacific coast of Mexico, little-known Colima is the third smallest state in the union, hemmed in by touristy Jalisco to the north and cultural Michoacán to the south. The southern tip of the Sierra Madre mountains cascades down into the state, creating dramatic gorges and rivers, and the skyline is dominated by two huge volcanoes, one dormant and one the most active in country, the volcán de fuego, which looms over the state capital Colima, sporadically puffing out spires of smoke into the deep blue Mexican sky. Apart from a few urban pockets, such as the state capital, Colima, and resort town Manzanillo, this is ranchers’ territory, where cowboys-turned-businessmen top sharp suits with ten-gallon hats, and vast ranches dominate the terrain – making horse riding one of the best ways to explore. Colima’s also one of Mexico’s most fertile regions, producing coffee, coconuts and a cornucopian collection of tropical fruit. Plus, with a landscape rich with rainforest and wildlife, it’s a haven for naturalists, eco-adventurers, and anyone who knows a modern day Eden when they see one.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
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Highlights the best Colima has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
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We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Colima.
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Here is the map of Colima; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.
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Local knowledge
- Taxis
- In Colima town, cabs are plentiful at the airport and around the bus station. In more far-flung places in the state, you’re best hiring a car, or arranging a driver through your hotel. To book a taxi in advance, call Radio Taxis de Colima y Villa de Álvarez on +52 312 311 4949.
- Tipping culture
- Bar and restaurant staff expect 10–15 per cent for service. Be prepared to give cab drivers some change if they help with luggage, but there’s no need to tip for the sake of it.
- Siesta and Fiesta
- Colima’s not big on nightlife, so don’t expect much in the way of early-hours cavorting – or to eat after 10.30pm. Shops, however, open relatively late, usually until 8–10pm.
- Packing tips
- Make like a cowboy and bring riding-friendly threads – don’t worry about a hat most stables have proper John Wayne-esque ones you can borrow. Leave space in your bag to take home some locally grown coffee and remember to pack warm clothing as nights can be chillier than you might expect.
- Recommended reads
- The magic realist novel Pedro Paramo by Juan Rulfo charts a man’s attempts to uncover the truth about his murderous stepfather, and the ghost town to which he finds comes to find him.
- Cuisine
- Sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the states of Jalisco and Michoacan, Colima enjoys the best of both culinary worlds: a bounty of fresh seafood and the typical ranch dishes of Western Mexico. As well as sugar cane and coffee, the state grows fruits such as mango, mamey, tamarind and coconut, which are often used in local drinks and sweets. Look out for Cocada, a sugary coconut concoction made with eggs and spices, and dulce de tamarindo, a very popular sweet snack. You’ll see Colimans chugging back tuba, a boozy beverage made from palm sap, tejuino, a fermented corn drink, and ponches, made from fermented maguey and flavoured with fruits. Ponche de grenada (pomegranate punch), is the most well-known, but tamarind, pistachio and guava are also among many flavours available. In terms of savoury dishes, you can look forward to sinking your fork into tatemado (pork marinated in coconut vinegar), pozole (a pork and hominy stew), and menudo (a spicy tripe soup). Comala is famous for its delicious sopitos, small tortillas covered with shredded meat, and sprinkled with cheese.
- Currency
- Mexican Pesos (MXN).
- Time zone
- GMT -6hrs.
- Dialing codes
- Mexico: +52; 312 if calling Colima from a landline in another city, 01 312 if calling from a mobile phone.
- Do go/don't go
- The climate’s at its optimum (hot but not scorching or humid) and the festivals season’s in full flow between November and June, but September brings the rainy season and is best avoided.
Colima hotels
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Colima
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- Style
- Exclusive organic enclave
- Setting
- Volcanic valleys of Colima
- Rates from
- USD 400
Getting there
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
- Planes
- 12km outside the city of Colima, the dinky airport of Miguel de la Madrid receives daily Aeromar flights from Mexico City’s Benito Juarez. Sunset flights are highly recommended – secure a window seat and check out the stunning volcano views.
- Trains
- Mexico is sparse on railway lines, but big on buses (try Uno – www.uno.com.mx). Flying, however, is the most efficient way to cover some of the bigger distances involved.
- Automobiles
- Driving in Mexico is relatively easy and the roads are generally well maintained. However, venture far from the main highways and you’ll be in dirt track territory – rent a 4x4 if you intend to explore in depth. (www.alamo.com).
Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best Colima has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
Completely Colima
Some of the most instantly recognisable symbols of Colima are the perros cebados, ceramic sculptures of small, fat, hairless dogs that were once a prehispanic tradition, and today fill the craft shops and street stalls of the state. The dogs themselves, known as Techichi or Escuincle, were relatives of the Chihuahua and Xoloitzcuintle (Mexican hairless) and were bred for their healing properties, talents as guard dogs, and the fact they made for a tasty barbecue.
- Viewpoint
- Take a trek in the foothills of the Volcán de Fuego (the Colima volcano) for amazing views over the surrounding valleys to the south and the smoking behemoth filling your vision to the north.
- Arts and culture
- Culture-hunters should head to Colima city and visit the archaeological sites of El Chanal and La Campana, prehispanic religious ruins. Also check out the Museo Regional de Historia (housed within a colonial mansion in the Jardine de Libertad at the heart of the city), for beautiful examples of Tarascan ceramics. The Museo de Artes Populares at the junction of Gabina Barreda and Manuel Gallardo houses a more contemporary collection of masks, hats, sandals, costumes, puppets, toys, miniatures and weapons – many of which are still used in Colima’s festivals.
- Something for nothing
- Pop into Colima’s cathedral, the tallest edifice in the state, and admire the elegant neoclassical interiors.
- Shopping
- In pretty Comala you can’t move without walking into a ponche shop selling the sweet fruit liqueur made from the maguey cactus, but skip the rest and head straight to Los Portrillos at 103 Avenida Caranza. The pistachio and rasberry flavours are particularly worth a taste test. In the main plaza, La Casa de los Recuerdos (20 Cap. Llerenas) has an enchanting selection of embroidered cotton shirt and dresses. Downtown Colima is dotted with antique shops stuffed with arts and crafts, but Plaza Zentralia, the large mall on Colima’s outskirts, may lack Mexican character, but it does house some great boutiques.
- Daytripper
- Although it’s close to two and a half hours’ drive from Colima, the gorgeous colonial city of Guadalajara in Jalisco is well worth the schlep for its impressive cathedral, arty, crafty shops, and a host of designer brand boutiques for those experiencing Prada-withdrawal.
- Best beach
- Playa Olas Altas, between Plaza Santiago and Playa Miramar, is a surfer’s paradise. On the northern side of the Santiago peninsula near Manxzanillo, Playa la Audencia is set in a beautiful cove, protected from the Pacific waves and ideal for swimming, snorkelling and sun-bathing.
- Perfect Picnic
- Pick up alfresco eats at the markets in Comala or Colima, and head to the Laguna de Carrizalillo, 18km north of Comala. This little lake is the ideal spot to spread out a blanket and dine against a dramatic volcanic backdrop, and there are cabins, restaurants, and opportunities for horse riding and boating in the area.
- Walks
- The jungles around the Volcán de Fuego are packed with exotic birds, lush tropical vegetation and intriguing wildlife – Volcano Tours (www.colimamagic.com) arranges day-long guided hikes of varying degrees of strenuousness, with pick-ups in Colima and Manzanillo.
- Children
- Gobsmack your kids by taking them to the Zona Magica, a stretch of road near Comala where the laws of gravity don’t seem to apply – water and round objects run uphill (or appear to), due either to an unusual optical effect, supernatural tinkering, or perhaps a tear in the space-time continuum. Who knows?
- Activities
- Flota Amarilla (+52 314 332-1031) operates sport-fishing trips from Manzanillo, where you can angle for marlin, dorado and sailfish. Ocean Pacific Adventures (www.mexonline.com/opafish.htm) runs beginner-friendly deep-sea excursions from La Perlita Plaza in Manzanillo – afterwards, you can have your catch cooked free at Colima Bay Café. Horse riding excursions can be arranged at Hacienda de San Antonio, or through Hacienda Don Tomas (+52 (0)1 314 334 2744) in Manzanillo.
- And...
- Fans of Bo Derek (or even Dudley Moore) may like to note that Blake Edward's 1979 film 10 was filmed at the Las Hadas resort in Manzanillo
Diary
February Like Valencia’s Las Fallas, but on a smaller scale, the Fiestas Charrotaurinas in Colima sees the city streets fill with puppet parades, traditionally parodying important state figures. March Los Paspaques de Suchitlán in Comala is a Nahua agricultural festival venerating maize. Naturally, tacos, tortillas and tamales are consumed by the plate-load.
Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Colima.
Cafés
Café de la Plaza
Hotel Ceballos’ street café at the plaza Jardín de Libertad dishes out delicious regional snacks and meals to enjoy beside the park, and there’s live guitar music every Thursday and Sunday.
12 Portal Medellín, Colonia Centro, C.P. 28000 Colima
(+52 312 312 4444)
Restaurants
El Charco de la Higuera
Dine under the orange trees in a charming little patio at this pleasant restaurant by the San Jose church, which serves an array of freshly prapred, authentic Mexican dishes – including an excellent mole.
Calle Cinco de Mayo, Colima
(+52 312 313 1092)
La Toscana
For a break from Mexican cuisine, try this popular seaside spot serving French, Italian and Spanish dishes with an emphasis on fresh seafood –the lobster’s a surefire winner, as is the giant shrimp wrapped in bacon.
3177 Bulevar Miguel de la Madris , Las Brisas, Manzanillo
(+52 314 333 2515)
L'Recif
Overlooking dramatic rocky outcrops and a small cove, this stunningly situated international eatery even has its own pool fro a preprandial dip. Cliff-top cocktails at sunset are unmissable.
Cerro del Cenicero, Manzanillo
(+52 314 335 0900)
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith