Printable destination guide

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Boutique hotels in Tuscany

Holidays in Tuscany, Italy

Self-catering properties in Tuscany

Tuscany Overview

Italy

Countryscape
Ancient towns, fertile slopes
Country life
Pleasures for every palate

When mother Nature was handing out charm, she really piled the goodies up high when it came to this above-the-knee patch of Italy.

If the slopes dotted with cypress trees and olive groves don’t win your heart, the aromas and flavours of the flourishing farmlands will, via your stomach. Perfectly preserved Renaissance treasures in culture-packed ancient cities scream out for attention, while the quieter lure of Maremma, Italy’s Wild West, is characterised by beautiful coastline, hot springs and marshes once patrolled by cowboys. Don’t let Tuscany’s popularity with tourists fool you into thinking you can’t get away from it all here – sure, this beloved province will treat you to the gamut of holiday activities, but whether you feel like touring mediaeval hilltop villages, hitting the designer boutiques, or flopping on a lounger-for-two for poolside sun-kissed snoozing, Tuscany’s allure can be enjoyed at every pace.

Typically Tuscany

Wend your way through ‘Chiantishire’, between Siena and Florence, and comb this territory of vineyards for your own favourite bottles of Italy’s legendary wine. Just promise us that you won’t include one of the straw-covered variety in your haul. Other options include the wine-growing regions of Montepulciano and Montalcino.

 

Local knowledge

Taxis
Your best bet is to ask your hotel to organise pick-ups and transfers for you, as you won’t be able to hail a taxi in the hills.

Tipping culture
Service charges aren’t a huge deal here, so forking out five or 10 per cent extra is the polite thing to do. It's cheaper to drink your coffee standing at the bar than sitting down; leave a couple of small coins if you like.

Siesta and Fiesta
Many shops close between 1pm and 5pm. Restaurants get especially busy from 8pm to 9pm. Sundays can be very quiet in the smaller towns and villages.

Packing tips
Bring tress-taming headscarves and caps for open-top touring; a designer bikini and some walking shoes will ensure you get the best of coast and country.

Recommended reads
Frances Mayes restores a villa and lives the rural dream in Under the Tuscan Sun; gothic novel In Maremma by Ouida recalls the grittier side of 19th-century romance; John Mortimer’s Chiantishire comedy thriller Summer’s Lease provides a witty take on holidays in Tuscany. Other classics include A Room with a View by EM Forster and Giovanni Boccaccio's The Decameron.

Cuisine
Peasant fare is at its finest in Tuscany, with fagioli-filled tasty soups and stews often the headline acts. Supporting roles are played by beautiful green cold-pressed olive oil, pecorino cheese, spinach, mushrooms, and wild boar from Maremma’s pine forests. You’ll certainly appreciate a hearty meal, to help you soak up the irresistible liquid enticements of Chiantis, Brunellos and Montepulcianos. The sweet-toothed should sample the rainbow of tempting flavours on offer at a gelateria, or try a slice of Panforte di Siena: a spicy, chewy calorie bomb of almonds, honey, cocoa and candied peel. Head to Nannini’s patisserie in Siena at Conca d’Oro on Via Banchi di Sopra for the best panforte, cantucci and orange-infused riciarelli biscuits (+39 0577 236009).

Currency
Euro (€).

Time zone
GMT +1.

Dialling codes
Country code for Italy: 39. Florence: 055; Grosseto: 0564; Pisa: 050; Siena: 0577.

Do go/don't go
Tuscany can be busy with tourists throughout the summer months, although once you’ve escaped to your retreat you won’t notice. The cities of Florence and Siena in particular are best enjoyed outside the peak summer season.

Don't go home without

… paying a visit to beautiful Poggio Antico winery in Montalcino (+39 0577 848044; www.poggioantico.com), high in the Brunello mountain range. Have lunch or dinner while you’re there.


Tuscany Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Tuscany


Villa Bordoni

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Rustic deluxe

Setting
Green groves of Greve in Chianti

The Scottish restaurateur owners took three years to furbish and restore the 10-roomed Villa Bordoni in the rolling Tuscan countryside, half an hour from Florence. It's wonderfully relaxing and great for family holidays, too.

Book now

L'Andana

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Tuscan hunting lodge

Setting
Sublime solitude

A boutique hideaway in Tuscany's Maremma countryside, L’Andana offers a relaxed retreat with the best of the Tuscan hills and the Mediterranean combined.

Book now

Borgo Santo Pietro

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Classic-luxe Tuscan villa

Setting
Enchanting formal gardens

This refined boutique hotel near Siena in Tuscany is set in an antique-bedecked 13th-century villa – a stay at Borgo Santo Pietro will have you feeling like Italian aristocrats enjoying a lazy weekend away at their luxury country house.

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Castello di Vicarello

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Mediaeval castello in the clouds

Setting
Hidden hilltop olive groves

Castello di Vicarello rises from the forests of Tuscany like a fairy-tale; this 11th-century Italian castle, olive orchard and vineyard is a rustic-luxe boutique hotel with home-cooked food, an organic spa and staggering panoramas.

Book now

Villa Fontelunga

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Grand guesthouse

Setting
Glamorous gardens

Fans of contemporary cool will appreciate the way Villa Fontelunga in Tuscany combines Starck and Jacobsen with flourishes from the locale.

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Villa Sassolini

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Contemporary country house

Setting
Tranquil Chianti

Slate-coloured wood floors, spacious and airy rooms, cosy fireplaces and a tranquil garden with panoramic views of Tuscany make Villa Sassolini peaceful perfection.

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Continentale

Florence, Italy

Style
Bright and witty

Setting
Pole position by Ponte Vecchio

With its sleek minimalist design, the Continentale in Florence is the very antithesis of Room With a View-style hotels, and it’s a hit with lovers of a contemporary vibe.

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Gallery Hotel Art

Florence, Italy

Style
Classic-contemporary comfort

Setting
Oasis on the Arno

Modern lines and a minimalist-inclined decor contrast with the flagstone streets and centuries-old architecture on the doorstep of the Gallery Hotel Art in Florence.

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Hotel Savoy

Florence, Italy

Style
Chic and child-friendly

Setting
Ultra-central Piazza della Repubblica

Florence's Hotel Savoy is elegantly styled by Olga Polizzi in her trademark neutrals and is also super-central, with the Ponte Vecchio, the Uffizi and the Duomo all within easy reach.

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JK Place

Florence, Italy

Style
Private perfection

Setting
Perched on the piazza

In JK Place in the heart of Florence, painted ceilings, panelled walls, antique fireplaces and extremely well-edited modern pieces sit comfortably alongside every audiovisual requirement.

Book now

La Bandita

Tuscany, Italy

Style
Rustic-luxe former farm

Setting
Sheep-lined cypress hill

Secluded on a hilltop in rural Tuscan countryside, this restored farmhouse is now a boutique hotel with heart, soul and a tempting wine cellar…

Book now

Riva Lofts

Florence, Italy

Style
Hip and homely

Setting
Leafy Arno riverside

A brief meander from the arty heart of Florence, Riva Lofts is an architect-owned boutique bed and breakfast is smart and modern in design, yet reassuringly unpretentious in attitude.

Check availability



Getting there

Holidays in Tuscany, Italy

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Pisa’s Galileo Galilei airport (www.pisa-airport.com) is the most convenient regional gateway, but Florence and Rome Fiumicino are options; a two-hour drive from either will get you into southern Tuscany. If you're a high-flier with your own jet, there is also a small airport in Siena (www.siena-airport.it).
Trains
The main station in Florence is behind Piazza Santa Maria Novella; Florence acts as a hub for services to other Tuscan cities, including Siena and Pisa (www.trenitalia.com). Grosseto is on the main Rome-Genoa line and has frequent express services. Once in the Tuscan countryside, however, public transport is fairly limited.
Automobiles
The cities are best explored on foot, but there’s nothing more fun than putting the top down and exploring the Tuscan countryside by convertible. Hire classic and vintage cars from CLM Viaggi (+39 0577 287415).

Boutique hotels in Tuscany

Holidays in Tuscany, Italy

Self-catering properties in Tuscany

Tuscany Activities

Highlights the best Tuscany has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Tuscany itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
Tuscany has enough postcard-perfect vistas to fill a book; you’ll soon find your own favourite. That said, to the south, there are spectacular views from the picture-perfect ruins of Scarlino Castle, and from Montepulciano’s unfinished cathedral. Fiesole is the upmarket hillside suburb northeast of Florence from where you can enjoy the most magnificent panoramic views of the terracotta-tiled town and its Duomo below.

Arts and culture
Great Renaissance treasures gild the entire region – not just Florence. Siena in particular has a wealth of Gothic riches, including the humbug-striped Duomo and its marble pulpit, as well as important works by Donatello (in the baptistery), Duccio (in the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo) and Lorenzetti (in the Palazzo Pubblico). Mediaeval Arezzo boasts Piero della Francesca frescos. Maremma was once the heartland of the Etruscan civilisation, and their ruins can be seen around the beautiful hilltop towns of Savana, Sorana and Pitigliano, 20 miles southeast of Grosseto near Saturnia.

Something for nothing
Siena’s famous horse race – Il Palio – is contested twice a year by the city’s 17 contrade (districts), each with their own loyalty-stirring symbol, such as eagle, panther and, um, snail. Enjoy a wonderfully haphazard tour of the city by trying to find statues or plaques representing all 17 (hint: usually somewhere near the contrada’s museum). Or visit stunning Sant’Antimo (www.antimo.it), a 12th-century abbey and functioning Cistercian monastery in Montalcino late in the afternoon; stand outside afterwards, at 7pm (6.30pm on Sundays), and you’ll hear the monks singing at vespers.

Shopping
Grosseto and Siena have some fantastic boutiques, but with all the wonderful designer-label factory outlets on the outskirts of Florence, it’s tempting to head there for cut-price Italian fashion; one of the most popular is the Mall on Via Europa in Leccio Reggello (+39 055 865 7775). If you like to browse more than buy, a local market’s the place to head. We love the daily fish market at Castiglione della Pescaia; Siena’s Wednesday-morning food market at La Lizza; and, on the third Sunday of every month, the antiques market at the city’s Piazza del Mercato.

Daytripper
Tourists flock to Tuscany in peak season, but head to the sites early or off-season and you should miss the hordes who hit the hotspots in the middle of the day. Siena, San Gimignano, Arezzo, Lucca and Pisa are all within easy driving distance of southern Tuscany and worthy of a day trip. Famed for its Leaning Tower, Pisa’s other marvels – the cathedral and the baptistery in the beautiful Campo dei Miracoli – may be less famous, but they are no less spectacular… and a lot more stable. If you like your architecture unsullied by spandex-clad happy snappers, the ancient village of Volterra is a hands-down winner. Neighbouring Umbria’s huge lake Trasimeno and pretty hill towns make fantastic destinations if you need an excuse to potter across country: Orvieto, Assisi and Gubbio are within a few hours’ drive.

Best beach
In the Punta Ala area at the southern end of the Gulf of Follonica, two of the finest beaches are Cala Martina and Cala Violina. Around Castiglione della Pescaia there are also some fabulous, pristine beaches, particularly in the spectacular Tombolo forest.

Walks
Take a gastronomic walking tour of Florence’s Central Market with charismatic Judy Witts Francini, tasting vintage balsamic vinegar and snaffling mouthfuls of cheese en route before holing up in a traditional trattoria or having a cooking lesson at Judy’s flat. Alternatively, contact her at Divina Cucina (www.divinacucina.com) for bespoke tasting trips in Chianti or elsewhere in Tuscany.

Activities
There are several geothermal hot springs to soak in, such as the famous Terme di Saturnia (+39 0564 600111) near Manciano in the far south of the region. Spot flocks of pink flamingos in October at the Orbetello lagoon, one of Europe’s foremost destinations for migratory birds. If you have your own car and want a spectacular ocean drive, try the Via Panoramica on Monte Argentario. There are fabulous walking trails around Monte d’Alma and Poggio Ballone to the north of Castiglione della Pescaia. Maremma provides perfect terrain for horse riding, whilst gaining insight into the traditions of the butteri; Grosseto-based Equinus organises cattle drives in the Alberese park (+39 0564 24988; www.cavallomaremmano.it). Visit the Petra winery for a spot of wine tasting in a spectacular building designed by Mario Botta (+39 0565 845308; www.petrawine.it). Villa Bordoni in Greve in Chianti offers cookery courses (from half-day to six-day courses). There are also courses at the Osteria di Passignano in Badia a Passignano (www.osteriadipassignano.com).

Diary

Late April–early July The auditory delights of Maggio Musicale Fiorentino are a must for lovers of classical music (www.maggiofiorentino.com). May A historic archery contest takes place in the main piazza of Massa Marittima on the first Sunday after the 20th; the crossbowmen get another go on the second Sunday of August. July/August The two Palio dates in Siena see bareback horsemen fight tooth and hoof to win the race round the Campo (www.paliosiena.com). Early September Where better to get stuck into a wine fair than at Greve, for the Chianti Classico festival. Head to the Joust of the Saracens in Arezzo for mediaeval mayhem and lance-waving; there’s a second event at the end of June (www.portacrucifera.it). For more events and activities in Tuscany, also see our Florence destination guide.


Boutique hotels in Tuscany

Holidays in Tuscany, Italy

Self-catering properties in Tuscany

Tuscany
Eating, drinking and dancing

Here's a selection of some of our favourite restaurants and cafés in Tuscany; for more listings, also see our Florence destination guide.

Cafés

(+39 0577 236009)

Pasticceria Nannini

Nannini’s patisserie in Siena is renowned for making the city's best panforte, cantucci and chewy, orange-infused almond riciarelli biscuits. This original outpost at Conca D’Oro opened in 1931 and is still the place to go for a coffee and a little something sweet, or an aperitif.

24 Via Banchi di Sopra, 53100 Siena, Tuscany

(+39 0577 285208)

Pasticceria Nannini

Another branch of Siena's best speciality patisserie; this one has tables at the back where you can sit and take your time over your Tuscan pastries. You could also have a light lunch here – sandwiches, wine and beer as well as ice-creams are all up for grabs - or stock up treats to take home.

42–44 Via Massetana Romana, 53100 Siena, Tuscany

Restaurants

(+39 0577 48013)

Osteria Le Logge

A Sienese gourmet favourite for dinner, this landmark local restaurant has an airy dining room lined with clever wine-storing cabinets, and alfresco tables spilling onto the street outside. Pork dishes are a speciality: the owner rears his own rare-breed pigs. Reservations essential.

33 Via del Porrione, 53100 Siena, Tuscany

(+39 057 871 7290)

Ristorante Le Logge del Vignola

Traditional Tuscan staples are given a modern spin at this intimate restaurant in Montepulciano. White tablecloths and excellent service make for a romantic meal; try lake-fish ravioli, home-made spelt pasta, salt-cod with chick pea farinata or roast sucking pig on deep-fried vermicelli. The tasting menus are excellent and everything on the à la carte sounds delicious – so make sure you're feeling decisive and have a big appetite.

6 via delle Erbe, Montepulciano, Tuscany

(+39 0578 748606)

Latte di Luna

The best trattoria in Pienza by far, if you ask us – cosy, fun, cheap, delicious. The pici al Ragu (hand-rolled pasta in wild-boar sauce) is worth making a lengthy detour to devour. A long, relaxed lunch outside on the terrace on a summery day = perfection. Closed Tuesdays; booking essential.

2–4 via San Carlo, Pienza, Tuscany

(+39 055 852601)

La Cantinetta di Rignana

This restaurant near Greve is a smart choice for typical Tuscan food in a rustic farmhouse setting, with lovely countryside views (try to get a table on the farmyard terrace if the weather's fine). Dishes use regional produce, most sourced from the farms of Rignana. Try rabbit or veal grilled over a wood fire, washed down with Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo. (Closed Tuesdays; www.lacantinettadirignana.it)

Località Rignana, Greve in Chianti

(+39 055 290076)

Beccofino

If you’re in Florence and fancy sophisticated Italian cooking in contemporary surroundings, visit Villa Bordoni’s sister restaurant in the Oltrarno district. It's also an upscale wine bar. For more Florence restaurant recommendations, check out Mr & Mrs Smith's Florence guide.

1 Piazza degli Scarlatti, 50125 Florence, Italy

(+39 0577 44329)

Enoteca I Terzi

This traditional but incredibly elegant enoteca in the centre of Siena has nigh-on 1,000 different wines; try one of the tasting plates while you sit in the quiet mediaeval courtyard, or settle in for a delicious dinner of Tuscan specialities. Closed Sundays.

7 Via dei Termini, Siena, Italy

(+39 055 242 757)

Enoteca Pinchiorri

This legendary restaurant on Via Ghibellina is a pricey thrice-Michelin-starred wine-lovers’ paradise; grab a table on the jasmine-scented courtyard. Only open Tuesday, Thursday to Saturday.

Via Ghibellina 87, 50122, Florence, Italy

(+39 0564 900680)

La Locanda nel Cassero

This homely osteria not far from Paganico on the way to Grosseto is worth a detour if you're visiting the area; there are fantastic views from the town and seasonal dishes bursting with traditional flavour, all enhanced with local extra virgin olive oil. Home-made pasta is a speciality. Get a table on the terrace. (www.locandanelcassero.com)

29–31 Via del Cassero, 58045 Civitella Marittima (Paganico), Tuscany

(+39 0564 991030)

La Taverna di Campagna

A sweet enoteca and pizzeria near the Monte Antico train station, serving giant, tasty, traditional pizzas (none of that doughy deep-pan rubbish here, thank you very much) and rustic regional specialities.

10 Via Firenze, Monte Antico, 58045 Civitella Paganico, near Grosseto, Tuscany

(+39 055 8547050)

Ristoro di Lamole

Come here for authentic Tuscan cuisine (Chianini beef, roasted vegetable, handmade pastas), matched with a best-in-class selection of Chiantis and other regional wines. The food more than does justice to the amazing views across the countryside from the terrace – you can see as far as San Gimignano (www.ristorodilamole.it).

6 Via di Lamole, 50022 Lamole, nr Greve in Chianti, Tuscany

(+39 0577 288180)

Il Canto

Il Canto's chef has been hailed as one of Italy's top five, and he certainly punches above his weight at this slightly formal hotel restaurant. The main dining room is all gilt chandeliers and marble mantles; we love lunching in the rustic kitchen or on the pretty patio; for dinner, get a table in the courtyard cloisters. Menus focus on produce picked in the kitchen gardens.

Hotel Certosa di Maggiano, 82–86 Strada di Certosa, 53100 Siena, Tuscany

(+39 0577 848044)

Ristorante Poggio Antico

Fine wine and dining at the Poggio Antico winery, a five-minute drive from Montalcino, with gorgeous views across the vineyard to Monte Amiata. Opening times vary, so ring ahead to book a table for lunch or dinner and make a day of it by doing a tour of the estate while you're there (www.poggioantico.com).

53024 Montalcino (Siena), Tuscany

Bars and clubs

(+39 055 854 6313)

Enoteca Fuori Piazza

A charming little wine bar that serves simple, quality food - warm, welcoming and authentic.

Via I Maggio, 2, 50022, Greve in Chianti, Italy

(+39 0577 274733)

Liberamente Osteria

With a fantastic position right on Siena's mediaeval Campo, wine bar Liberamente is a fun place to have a few drinks and watch the world go by. Pair your glass of wine with delicious plates of cured meats and cheeses, or have a light lunch with some prosecco. Open 11am–1am.

27 Piazza del Campo, 53100 Siena, Tuscany



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith