Printable destination guide
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South Tyrol
Italy
- Countryside
- Alpine oxygen
- Country life
- Ski or spa, stroll or stride
Austrian until 1919, the South Tyrol – or Südtirol – is Italy’s most northerly province, with a uniquely Teutonic tone. Two-thirds of the population speak German as their mother tongue, and handsome schlossen dot every hillside, but still an Italian sensibility prevails, creating an intriguing cultural mix.
The landscape is dominated by the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites mountain range, towering over peaceful valleys of orderly farmland, apple orchards and award-winning vineyards. The spa town of Merano and ancient Bolzano are the South Tyrol's two main towns; their undoubted charms are perhaps eclipsed by the sheer beauty of the natural backdrop, which provides a perfect adventure playground for more open-air activities than you can possibly have time for.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
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Highlights the best South Tyrol has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
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We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in South Tyrol.
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Here is the map of South Tyrol; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.
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Local knowledge
- Taxis
- It’s best to book ahead; ask your hotel for details of local firms.
- Tipping culture
- Restaurant cover charges often represent the service charge, but it’s customary to round up the bill if the service is to your liking.
- Siesta and Fiesta
- Some small shops still close for lunch. Supermarkets usually stay open until 19h.
- Packing tips
- Walking boots, sunscreen, all your usual ski paraphernalia in season. We swear by our CamelBak hands-free hydration systems.
- Recommended reads
- The Magic Mountain by Thomas Mann.
- Cuisine
- The South Tyrol’s Austrian genes mean cricket-ball-sized canederli (dumplings) come drenched in melted butter. Try the hearty schlutzkrapfen – Tyrolean spinach and ricotta-filled ravioli. Vinschgerlen (Rye bread rolls) are chewy and spiked with caraway; smoked speck is tender and delicate. If it all sounds a bit heavy, a wide choice of gourmet restaurants have also sprung up, preparing local fare with a lighter, even Mediterranean touch.
- Currency
- Euro.
- Dialing codes
- Country code for Italy: 39. Merano: 0473.
- Do go/don't go
- The ski slopes open from December to February. From May through to autumn the upland pastures are popular for walking, biking and riding. The turn-of-season shutdowns are in March and November.
South Tyrol hotels
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in South Tyrol
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- Style
- Modernist lodge
- Setting
- Dramatic Dolomites
- Rates from
- EUR 272
Getting there
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
- Planes
- Verona and Innsbruck airports are two hours away by car. Lufthansa and Air Alps (www.airalps.com) fly to nearby Bolzano in four hours from London Heathrow. A stopover is required.
- Trains
- It’s possible to travel from London to Innsbruck, just over the Austrian border, via Brussels. See www.europeanrail.com for more details.
- Automobiles
- A car is ideal for getting to your next activity appointment on time, and scoping out hillside hamlets, but be prepared for frequent snowfalls and icy road conditions in the winter.
Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best South Tyrol has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
Suitably South Tyrol
Cablecars and a network of well-charted walking trails lead you up through deep green pine forests to the lofty peaks of the Dolomites, attracting hi-tech mountaineers and low-tech strollers.
- Viewpoint
- Try tandem paragliding for an eagle’s-eye view of the scenery. You don’t need to be super-fit or highly trained – it’s like a flying armchair. Contact Tirolfly (+39 335 67 66 891).
- Arts and culture
- At the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano, gaze into the face of 4,000-year-old Otzi, found mummified in a glacier by hikers in 1991; see www.iceman.it for more details. South Tyrol’s mediaeval castles and monasteries include Muri-Gries Monastery (www.muri-gries.com), which makes and sells red wine, and is open on weekdays.
- Something for nothing
- Follow the waalweg footpaths along the ancient irrigation channels in the Vinschgau Valley near Merano, through orchards and chestnut woods to Juval Castle.
- Shopping
- Bolzano is home to the usual Italian catwalk suspects including Missoni, Dolce and Prada. You can take home some excellent wines, from perfumed Gewürztraminer to deep reds from the sunny lower slopes of the Dolomites.
- Daytripper
- Drive south towards Bolzano and follow the wine route from Appiano to Termeno. Stop in Caldaro for wine-tasting and lunch: Castel Ringberg (www.castel-ringberg.com) overlooks the lake; Manincor is a 21st-century winery with a 300-year-old history. Near Magre is the Vinoteque im Paradeis (+39 0471 818 080) run by renowned wine producers Alois Lageder.
- Activities
- Summer is perfect for walking, hiking and climbing. The Merano Mountaineering School (www.bergsteigerschule.com) can take you paragliding, Nordic walking, rafting, canyoning, mountain biking and hiking. Or take to the hills on the back of an indigenous Haflinger pony: there’s a large stables at the Post Hotel in Olang (+39 0474 49 61 27), or try the excellent Sulfner Stables (+39 0473 279 424) where the breed originates from. In winter, ask at your hotel about skiiing, boarding, bobsleigh, ice-climbing and ice-skating. You may also wish to indulge in post-sporty spa treatments at the Thermal Baths in Merano (www.thermemeran.it).
Diary
- July brings metallers to the mountains at the Badia Rocks open-air music festival (www.badiarocks.com). Early August There’s a less hairy, more classical tone to the Merano Music Festival (www.meranofest.com). November The Merano Wine Festival (www.meranowinefestival.com) and Culinaria are twin comestible festivals showcasing local dishes and regional wines. December There is a rather Mitteleuropean Christmas market in Bolzano, lasting most of the month. It’s a great place to pick up a few last-minute gifts. Check www.suedtirol.info for details of local events.
Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in South Tyrol.
Restaurants
Zum Löwen
An award-winning showcase for self-taught chef Anna Matscher, this restaurant on Tesimo's High Street is set in an elegant art deco building with views of the Castello Principesco.
Hauptstrasse 72, Tesimo
(+39 0473 920 927)
Sissi Ristorante Andrea Fenoglio
Sissi is ultra-innovative, dealing, according to it's website, in 'advanced gastromony'. Despite this, it is a welcoming place with friendly staff and also has a super wine list.
Via Galileo Galilei 44, Merano
(+39 0473 231 062)
Kallmünz
All the food served here, from the breadsticks scented with the oregano of the Amalfi Coast to the yoghurt, is prepared on the day. Don't miss the fish and seafood, some of which is marinated and smoked on cherry wood.
Sandplatz/Piazza Rena, 12, Merano
(+39 0473 212 917)
Trattoria Kuckuck
Located near Lana, this trattoria serves typically Tyrolean food such as smoked sausages and rich cheeses. The restaurant is attached to an excellent winery, and has a tiny terraced garden with a rushing stream.
Via Gampen, 1, Cermes
(+39 0473 563 733)
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith
Pictured: Vigilius Mountain Resort