Printable destination guide

For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.


Boutique hotels in Puglia

Holidays in Puglia, Italy

Puglia Overview

Italy

Coastline
The shapely heel of Italy
Coast life
Trulli, madly, deeply

Located in Italy’s sunny south, Puglia has a unique character and charm, little known to outsiders; the Italians who flock here in the summer keep this laidback playground of blue sea, golden sands and olive groves strictly a family affair.

As at all good Italian get-togethers, food takes centre stage: fresh fish, melons, figs, olive oils and wines. Puglia produces almost all of the country’s – in fact Europe’s – pasta. Yet although the region may appear Italian down to its boots, the heel of Italy has a very cosmopolitan past; the Greeks, Spanish and Normans all paid visits, leaving a quirky mishmash of architectural heirlooms, from Baroque churches and Romanesque cathedrals to whitewashed villages and the traditional conical dwellings called trulli.

Perfectly Puglia

Puglia produces 70 per cent of Italy’s olive oil. There are many different varieties, each with its own unique flavour. The olive press of Il Frantolio di D’Amico Pietro near Cisternino offers tours and tastings – great for wine buffs looking for a new challenge.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Trying to hail a cab on the street won’t get you anywhere; go to a taxi rank or ask your hotel to order one for you. They are metered and levy small extra charges for luggage and for travelling after 22h.

Tipping culture
A service charge is usually added to restaurant bills, but it is customary to tip an extra five or ten per cent.

Siesta and Fiesta
Shops open early and close late, with long lunch breaks. Most close on Sundays and Monday mornings, except in resort areas. Banks also break for lunch, reopening at 15h for an hour. Restaurants only start to fill at 21h; nightclubs hot up around midnight.

Packing tips
Summer wardrobe staples – think laidback southern style, not chi-chi Capri.

Recommended reads
Casa Rossa by Francesca Marciano; Heel to Toe by Charles Lister.

Cuisine
Enjoy an abundance of sun-ripened fruit and vegetables and delicious olive oil. Definitely try the local pasta orecchiette or ‘little ears’. The region produces huge amounts of wine, too: Salice Salentino, a full-bodied red, is one of the best.

Currency
Euro.

Dialling codes
Country code for Italy: 39. Local area codes: Foggia: 0881; Bari: 080; Brindisi: 0831; Lecce: 0832; Taranto: 099. Remember, with Italy you need to leave in the 0, even when dialling from abroad.

Do go/don't go
If you don’t fancy sweltering-hot weather and busy beaches, visit in early or late summer for milder conditions and the chance to bag a decent spot on the sand. Fine, sunny weather starts in spring and lasts well into autumn this far south, and sees the region at its best.


Puglia Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Puglia


Masseria Torre Coccaro

Puglia, Italy

Style
Refined fortress

Setting
Sea-scented olive groves

The rooms in this historic fortified farmhouse in Puglia are exquisitely furnished with linen bedding, silky sofas, large baroque mirrors and antique furniture. Masseria Torre Coccaro is a child-friendly hotel so makes for great family getaways as well as romantic breaks.

Book now

La Sommità

Puglia, Italy

Style
Designer den

Setting
Up-and-coming Ostuni

La Sommità has cool, clean design lines but its massive walls and ramparts give this converted 16th-century palace a palpable sense of history.

Book now

Masseria Cimino

Puglia, Italy

Style
Tiny terracotta farmstead

Setting
Coastal olive groves

A cluster of whitewashed farm buildings surrounded by ancient olive groves, Masseria Cimino is an archetypal Pugliese rustic hideaway with a fresh, dreamlike sheen. Ornamented with artfully rusted farm tools, dried plants and flowers, and jars of preserves, it’s a modern-day take on a classic farm stay – with food just like nonna used to make. -->

Book now

Masseria Torre Maizza

Puglia, Italy

Style
Spacious and gracious

Setting
Coast-hugging Pugliese countryside

Surrounded by a grove of ancient olive trees, the 16th-century Masseria Torre Maizza – sister hotel of nearby Smith favourite Masseria Torre Coccaro – has been brought bang up to date with a cool, contemporary décor.

Book now



Getting there

Holidays in Puglia, Italy

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
There are airports at Brindisi and Bari, both with regular flights.
Trains
Puglia’s main towns and cities are connected by train, though local services are often scenic and slow. Remoter areas, such as the 13th-century Castel del Monte, require a car.
Automobiles
Car hire is essential if you really want to explore. Chancing upon remote villages as you drive along is all part of the fun.

Boutique hotels in Puglia

Holidays in Puglia, Italy

Puglia Activities

Highlights the best Puglia has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Puglia itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
The hilltop mediaeval town of Locorotondo on the Murge plateau gives panoramic views of the surrounding Itria Valley.

Arts and culture
Don’t go to Puglia without seeing the trulli. The Itria Valley is home to thousands of these circular dwellings, with beehive-shaped roofs and whitewashed walls, particularly around Alberobello.

Something for nothing
The shopkeepers in the trulli-town of Alberobello pride themselves on their hospitality and their wares. Many offer free wine tasting in their shops.

Shopping
Bari’s Via Sparano is the place to go for fashionable boutiques. Bari also has some excellent delicatessens. De Carne, on Via Calefati, is popular for local meats and cheeses. Almost every town in Puglia has its market day where, in addition to the fruit and vegetables, you can find handicrafts, such as terracotta and embroidery. Ostuni’s market is on Saturday.

Daytripper
The Parco Nazionale del Gargano, in the north of Puglia, contains the Foresta Umbra (Forest of Shadows). The 1,000 hectares of pine, oak and beech is the last remnant of an ancient forest, which once spread over most of Puglia.

Best beach
The fishing village of Torre Canne has a long stretch of soft sand and shallow water for cooling off your toes after working on the tan.

Activities
The region’s flat terrain is ideal for cycling. The gentle coastal route from Bari to Monopoli offers a taste of Puglia’s varied scenery. In the fishing village Polignano a Mare, which sits on the clifftop, stop for an ice cream at Il Super Mago del Gelo on Piazza Garibaldi.

And...
Puglia was once a Greek colony, and nowhere suggests this heritage better than Ostuni’s gorgeous whitewashed houses. Go along later to join the locals on their evening passeggiata – the see-and-be-seen stroll.

Diary

June One of the oldest motorcar races in the world, the Rally del Salento, takes place in Lecce – a nail-biting event characterised by its sharp turns (www.rallydelsalento.com). 20 July The start of the Festival della Valle d’Itria – a three-week event in the town of Martina Franca, with opera, classical and jazz performances (www.festivaldellavalleditria.it).

Boutique hotels in Puglia

Puglia
Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Puglia.

Restaurants

(+39 0831 303 320)

Osteria del Tempo Perso

If you're after traditional Pugliese fare, this is the place to come. One part of the restaurant is set inside a cave, the other is adorned with farm tools – bizarre but charming.

Via Tanzarella Vitale Francesco, Ostuni

(+39 0831 334 736)

Taverna della Gelosia

The romantic 'Tavern of Jealousy’ does some unusual and tasty dishes, such as barley with bitter herbs and nettles and black pasta whose symbolic ingredients allegedly bring prosperity and wealth.

Via Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale

(+39 080 801 066)

La Peschiera

Diners at the La Peschiera hotel restaurant enjoy fresh seafood while enjoying the views and gentle breeze of the Adriatic. The wine list features a selection of fine regional and national wines.

Contrada Losciale 63, Monopoli

Bars and clubs

(+33 0805 213 889)

Barcollo

Bari’s most stylish citizens can be found at this cool bar lounging on scatter cushions or enjoying Martinis on the terrace.

Piazza Mercantile n. 70, Bari



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith