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Boutique hotels in Amalfi Coast

Holidays in Italy, Amalfi coast

Amalfi Coast Overview

Italy

Coastline
Winding roads, secret coves, sparkling sea
Coast life
Fish, ships and breeze

Craggy, winding and riddled with caves and secret beaches, the Amalfi Coast is one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline in the world. The volcanic headland reaches out from the ankle of Italy towards the Tyrrhenian, sheer mountainside plummeting into the sun-sparkled sea.

Just to the south of Naples, this postcard-perfect promontory attracts landscape-hungry artists, glamour-hungry film stars and spaghetti-hungry gourmets from around the world. The serpentine coast road weaves around and tunnels through the mountains, never losing sight of the sea. It’s a route made for summer drives with the warm salty breeze in your hair, or for cliff-top hikes and hidden-beach picnics. Crumpled-wedding-cake towns spill down to the shore, where weathered fishing skiffs dock to unload the catch of the day, alongside summer sun-seekers sipping limoncello at the terraced bars of Positano or Praiano.

Absolutely Amalfi Coast

Nothing says ‘Amalfi Coast’ like a tot of limoncello in a chilled ceramic tumbler. The region is famed both for the ceramics produced by its craftsmen and the sweet lemony nectar expertly prepared from the lemon trees that litter the rocky cliff sides. The genuine article is made with lemon rind, not juice, hence its distinctly sweet flavour, and the drink is slowly supped as a digestivo in bars and restaurants all over the coast.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Hotels can organise a road or boat taxi for you depending on your destination. For the return journey, either go down to the village dock, where there's usually a boat taxi stand awaiting your custom, or call the hotel to arrange a return by road. In Positano, the road taxi rank is at the top of the village, the boat taxi down at the right hand side of the dock. Boat taxi's aren't an option in inland Ravello – the road taxi rank is right in the centre.

Tipping culture
10–15 per cent is appreciated.

Siesta and Fiesta
8.30pm–9pm is when most tend to head out to eat. Afterwards, bars and clubs stay open until midnight or 1h.

Packing tips
The Amalfi Coast is navigated by thousands of steep steps – heels won't cut it, so pack some flats to stash in a bag when the stilettos come out; walking boots for serious yompers. Hats and head scarves which aren't likely to flee at the first sign of a breeze are a good investment for travelling by speedboat.

Recommended reads
Giovanni Boccacio's bawdy classic, The Decameron mentions Ravello and the gardens of Villa Rufolo in one novella. More contemporary, John Steinbeck's 1953 novel Positano is set in and around the town of the same name. For fans of the macabre, John Webster's bloodbath of a play The Duchess of Malfi is a not-quite-true story, based on the machinations of the 16th-century Amalfi aristocracy.

Cuisine
Spaghetti alla anything is the star player on any Amalfi menu, but it would be a crime not to have it with fresh seafood from the daily catch – spaghetti alla vongole (clams) and prawn or mussel linguine are Mr & Mrs Smith's favoured foodstuffs. If you don't have a fish-friendly palate, the towns of Montepertuso and Nocelle are excellent destinations for meat and local produce. Some villages have their own specialties – Nerano is famous for black spaghetti con zucchini and Sorrento-style gnocchi comes with a deliciously rich, mozzarella and tomato sauce. The Amalfi Coast is also the homeland of limoncello – the sweet meringue-ish liqueur made from the lemon trees that grow all over the cliff sides.

Currency
Euro

Time zone
GMT -1 hour

Dialling codes
Country code: +39. Area code for Salerno province: 089

Do go/don't go
The coast road can be crammed with coaches in the summertime, but the pay-off is the palpable buzz in the air during this time of year. March–May and September–October are quieter periods, and often the weather is still good. Winter can be romantic, although some hotels are closed in the low season.

Don't go home without

Picking up a bottle of limoncello from the factory on the way up the hill to Ravello. There's an aluminium door to the right of the road – just knock.


Amalfi Coast Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Amalfi Coast


Casa Angelina

Amalfi Coast, Italy

Style
Modern Med minimalism

Setting
Rugged Amalfi cliff side

High on the cliffs at the edge of Priano, Casa Angelina emerges gleaming from the rocks; a bright, white, clean-lined hotel that wisely lets the views do the talking.

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La Minervetta

Sorrento, Italy

Style
Quirky nautical

Setting
Neapolitan cliffhanger

La Minervetta's floor-to-ceiling windows and its three sun terraces are perfect platforms for admiring the panoramic views of the Bay of Naples.

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Getting there

Holidays in Italy, Amalfi coast

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
British Airways, BMI, EasyJet and Alitalia all fly into Naples airport.
Boats
In high season, you can catch one of the regular hydrofoils to Positano from Naples in high season. There are two harbours: Beverello harbour, just steps away from Piazza Municipio, or Mergellina harbour, 300 metres from the railway station of the same name. A travel tip: if you're lugging large cases you'll need to buy a ticket for each piece of baggage beforehand and present it when you board. See www.metrodelmare.com for more info.
Trains
A wide range of rail links lead from Naples to an assortment of destinations in Italy, including useful Amalfi Coast gateways such as Salerno and Sorrento.
Automobiles
Car rental is a sensible option for travelling from Naples to the Amalfi Coast and exploring the coastline's winding roads. Hertz has a branch at the airport, (www.hertz.com). Praiano is a two-hour drive away.

Boutique hotels in Amalfi Coast

Holidays in Italy, Amalfi coast

Amalfi Coast Activities

Highlights the best the Amalfi Coast has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Amalfi Coast itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
The views from Casa Angelina are mind-expanding enough but for one of the most staggering vistas in the world head to the gardens of Villa Cimbrone in Ravello, or have lunch at hotel itself and make sure you get a table nearest to the view. Don't forget that the views of the land from the sea can be just as impressive as vice versa.

Arts and culture
The town of Ravello is brimming with beauty, including the gardens of the Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone and the art-beating views out to sea. While there, pop into the 11th-century Duomo in Piazza Duomo – Ravello is one of the few villages on the Amlfi Coast to boast an ancient cathedral. The Amalfo Coast's incredible scenery has lured many an artist to the area – independent art galleries pepper the path to Positano. The coast itself is riddled with caves – most famous are the Coral Caves and La Grotta Blanca , where the water prefectly reflects an image of the Virgin Mary from a painting o

Something for nothing
The Sentiero degli Dei ('Path of the Gods') is a spectacularly scenic trek along the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast. Starting from Praiano, walk a few hundred metres towards Bomerano, until you reach the marble plague commemorating Giustino Fortunato, the economist who named the path, then follow the mountainside track to the monastery of San Domenico. It's a strenuous hike, all right, but more than worth the effort for the views alone. Go in the late afternoon for the added bonus of a stunning sunset.

Shopping
After the boutique wonderland that is Capri, Positano is the capital of the Amalfi Coast’s fashion scene, with myriad petite shops and galleries selling an array of jewelled, silk kaftans, Murano glass and designer dresses. The town’s famous for artisans, tailors and cobblers who will make beautiful shoes or clothes to measure – and sometimes while you wait.

Daytripper
The majestic ruins of Pompeii (www.pompeiisites.org) and the ascent of still-smoking Mount Vesuvius are on every tourist's tick-list, but they're definitely worth the drive. En route, stop off at L'Agriturismo Casa Scola on Via Fornace in Gragnano (+39 081 539 2198) and savour home-made wine and pasta – if you're in luck, you'll get a tour of the pasta and cheese factory.

Best beach
The craggy coastline is riddled with deserted beaches perfect for picnics. Charter a boat for the day and scout out your own private hideaway – the little cove near De Filippo's island is stunningly set among the rocks, with nothing but the local fisherman's house in sight.

Walks
Rent a Vespa or a car to zip along the coast road to your starting point – your passenger can keep an eye out for what may be hidden beach marvels down below – the long trip down to the shore (and back up) makes for a bracing stroll among beautiful scenery. Alternatively, wander up through the lemon trees to Ravello (take lots of water – it's a thirsty walk). At the top, the Garden Restaurant on Via Boccaccio will replenish your energy levels (+39 089 857226).

Children
Owing to a lack of readily accessible sandy beaches and a innumerable number of steep steps, the Amalfi Coast is not ideal for younger travellers – it's best kept as a romantic destination à deux.

Activities
Make the short crossing from the Amalfi Coast to Capri (go early to beat the crowds), either by charter boat from Positano's Noleggio Barche Lucibello on Via del Brigantino (+39 089 875 032), or hop on the hydrofoil from the town docks. Once in Capri, you can shop and sun-lounge to your heart's (and wallet's) content, or you can sign up for a day-long cookery course with twice Michelin-starred chef Renato and hone your Italian kitchen skills preparing six courses in his private villa (www.theinternationalkitchen.com).

Diary

June–September Opera, dance, music and theatre take over the village of Ravello and its gorgeous gardens, as the Ravello Festival events fill various villas including the famous Villa Rufolo (www.ravellofestival.com). April–September Positano Art Festival runs throughout the summer season month, featuring such diverse  spectacles as fashion shows and canoe races, both classical and modern dance and theatre. See www.positanoartfestival.com for details.


Boutique hotels in Amalfi Coast

Amalfi Coast eating, drinking and dancing

Amalfi Coast
Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in the Amalfi Coast. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your favourite threads…

Cafés

(+39 089 811461)

Buca di Bacco – Le Pergola

Ever-popular and serving the best ice-cream in town, this café/restaurant down by the beach offers cakes of all description, coffees, snacks and fantastic people-watching possibilities from its terrace.

35–37 Via del Brigantino, Positano

Restaurants

(+39 089 875128)

Da Vincenzo

Traditional lives music and randomly ringing bells competes for with cries of 'Vive le donne!' for the attention of this restaurant's clientèle. The food is as authentic as the atmosphere, with excellent traditional Italian food – the vegetable antipasti come recommended, as do the fresh fish straight from the sea.

172–178 Via Pasitea, Positano

(+39 089 875794)

Lo Guarracino

Follow the coastal path from Positano to Fornillo and you’ll find this very traditional family-run restaurant next to the tower. Take a seat outside overlooking the sea and feast on fresh seafood and pizza, to the sound of the waves.

12 Via Positanesi d' America, Positano

(+39 089 875056)

Ristorante Max

This quaint town-centre eaterie comes complete with a vast wine cellar and walls lined with 18th-century paintings. The terrace is lovely for lengthy summer lunches.

22 Piazza dei Mulini, Positano

(+39 089 878874)

Le Terrazze dell’Incanto

For a pre-club dinner on Thursday–Sunday, head to this classy-cool dining spot in the Music on the Rocks club. The views – and the music – are great.

51 Via Grotte dell’Incanto, Positano

(+39 089 857226)

Garden Restaurant

Exceptional salads and fine fresh fish are on the varied menu at this informal lunch spot overlooking the east coast.

4 Via Boccaccio, Ravello

(+39 089 858801)

Caruso

A privately managed fine-dining restaurant in the Hotel Caruso. The terrace is magical with a view to match that of Villa Cimbrone – worth going for this alone, although the seafood and mozzarella di bufala are big draws in their own right.

2 Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, Ravello

(+39 089 818181)

Rossellini’s

Chef Pino Lavarra worked with Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and has made Rossellini’s one of the best Italian restaurants in Italy serving uncomplicated food with the finest ingredients, earning two Michelin stars in the process.

28 Via San Giovanni del Toro, Ravello

(+39 089 874087)

Armandrino

A family-run trattoria on the seashore with a very local flavour: recipes have been handed down the generations and local musicians frequently come to sweeten the air. Ask for seafood recommendations – you won't be disappointed.

1 Via Marina di Praia, Praiano

(+39) 089 875 872

La Tagliata

In short: meat, wine and views. This hilltop restaurant near Positano serves plate upon plate of expertly barbecued farm-style fare in simple rustic surroundings. Tackle gargantuan portions, sup seemingly endless red wine, and admire unbeatable panoramas of the craggy coast.

22 Via Tagliata 80064 Positano, Italy

Bars and clubs

51 Via Grotte dell’Incanto, Positano

Music on the Rocks

This seaside club is the place to head for an upmarket disco experience in sexily lit, cave-like surroundings – great for people-watching, too.

(+39 089 875874)

(+39 089 811461)

Conwinum’s

The warm and multi-coloured Mediterranean interior makes for an interesting place to linger over an aperitif. There's also a great wine selection.

35–37 Via del Brigantino, Positano

(+39 335 562 4805)

Vivaro

This wine bar is one of the few places in the area with contemporary decor, but it still retains a cosy, local feel. The delicious Italian vintages can be accompanied by simple but delicious rustic fare, including meats, cheeses and home-made bread.

56 Via Capriglione, Praiano



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith