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This shepherd’s paradise still revels in the simple life: farming, craftwork and fresh mountain air. Though many of the towns and castles were built in the Middle Ages, the advanced architecture astonishes today’s visitors. Hilltop villages, covered porticos and arched alleyways make up the man-made component; the rest is taken care of by the mountains. The wild terrain of the spectacular Apennines is largely unspoilt, leaving ancient sheep-droving routes and shepherds’ shacks intact. High hillside plateaux are blanketed with crocuses, orchids and poppies. The cuisine and culture is equally rustic, with much of the regional flavour provided by the local lamb. If the sea calls, get back down to ground level and hit the long, sandy shores of the Adriatic coastline.
Abruzzese cuisine is fond of the humble lentil, nourished in Italian soils since just after biblical times. The region’s version is held in particularly high regard, because it’s an old and rare species that only mountains can grow. This nutty, brown legume is iron-rich thanks to the snows and springs that water it. Locals love it so much, they have an annual celebration every September.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Abruzzo
Mountainous and mediaeval Sextantio Albergo Diffuso is a boutique hotel clustered around the remains of an old village.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
May On the first Thursday of the month, the residents of Cocullo celebrate their patron saint, St Dominic, by toting a statue of him through the town – all very normal, except that it's covered in live snakes brought by pilgrims as offerings to the serpent-loving saint. There are the more conventional festival staples of fireworks and a banquet, and the party doesn't end until the traditional breakfast picnic at the foot of the town's hill. We don't know what happens to the snakes…
This ice-cream haven in Sulmona is right next to the San Francesco della Scarpa church. Sit on the steps with your scoops and views of the distant mountains.
161 Ovidio, Sulmona
Head here for traditional dishes made with regional ingredients in a half-restaurant, half-gallery setting.
This small inn is at the bottom of Santo Stefano, with views of the lake and village and hearty mountain food, such as the region’s classic lentil soup and lamb reared on a nearby plateau.
Via del Lago, 67020 Santo Stefano
All the regional classics are served up to perfection at this traditional taverna in Pacentro, the mediaeval village where Madonna’s grandparents were born.
13 Piazza Umberto 1, 67030 Pacentro
This atmospheric trattoria in L’Aquila serves the Abruzzese favourites, including the maccheroni alla chitarra, with saffron and sausages.
22 Piazza Palazzo, 67100 L’Aquila
As well as home-made pasta and grilled cuts of meat, the antipasti is what impresses at this Sulmona restaurant, especially the cheese-based ones: baked hunks of pecorino, warm, fresh ricotta and fried cheese pastries.
©2010 Mr & Mrs Smith
