Printable destination guide
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Kerala
India
- Coast and country
- Mangroves, mountains, the Malabar Coast
- Coast/country life
- Malayalam markets, magnificent festivals
Coconut-studded coastlines, canal-like backwaters, and undulating evergreen hills – the tropical beauty of this south-west swathe of India is unrivalled.
It’s not only Kerala’s scenic splendour that will win your heart, but also its friendliness, spirituality and spicy cuisine. Little wonder it’s nicknamed ‘God’s Own Country’ – so special is this state, it's a gift to mankind from the Big Guy upstairs. Stay anchored in a stylish resort in a postcard-perfect setting, or sample as many experiences as possible and take a tour through its varied terrain, stopping off at a range of charming retreats. Whether your location is city, coast or country, sightseeing is always wide-angled. Visit the colourful churches in the historical harbour of Fort Cochin; venture inland to Spice Country and hike the nature reserves of Thekkady; for wildlife-filled rural escapism, sample the tranquility and seclusion of backwater life; or wend your way south to the palm-lined sands near Alleppey and indulge in some beach-based R&R. And, to enhance your mind-body-and-soul-satisfying sojourn, ensure you indulge in the ancient healing science of Ayurveda while you’re away. Because of the rich vegetation and wealth of herbs in Kerala, it is believed that the cosmetic and therapeutic Ayurvedic treatments practised here are the most superior.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
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Highlights the best Kerala has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
more
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Kerala. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your favourite threads…
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Here is the map of Kerala; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.
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Local knowledge
- Taxis
- Ambassadors are the traditional taxi vehicle, and the cost of these is usually about INR 7 a mile. Ask your hotel to book one for you; for the sake of comfort you may want to ask for a Jeep fitted with seatbelts, although this will cost a little more.
- Tipping culture
- In restaurants or hotels a service charge of about 10 per cent is often added, so tipping is optional. Drivers, porters and anyone who helps you will appreciate a monetary thank you – even if it's just a few rupees.
- Packing tips
- India kit essentials include a torch, a nail scrubber, hand sanitiser. For dealing with the change in your diet, you may find bringing high-fibre snacks helpful, and, in case you do get an upset tummy, a product such as Floracare (0870 366 5729) is a great standby for restoring a healthy digestive system. Mosis are a big problem, particularly in Fort Cochin, so take lots of clothes that will keep you covered up, especially around the ankles. If you want to avoid chemical-based insect repellents, try Alfresco’s Beauty Without Bites (www.alfresco.uk.com).
- Recommended reads
- The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy; Selected Short Stories by Rabindranath Tagore.
- Cuisine
- Kerala has been supplying the rest of the world with spices for centuries, and folk flocked to the Malabar Coast (as this part of the world was known) for its pepper, once referred to as ‘black gold’. The distinctive-flavoured curry leaf has a starring role in Keralan cuisine, which is a big celebrator of natural and nutritional spices. Onions, garlic, chillies, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon and cumin are among an aromatic cast of characters, featuring in meat dishes, fish curries and vegetarian cooking.
- Currency
- Indian Rupee (INR). And before you cash up ahead of your trip, remember that you're not really supposed to take Indian currency in or out of India.
- Time zone
- GMT +4.5 hours.
- Dialing codes
- The code for India is 91.
- Do go/don't go
- Tourists tend to prefer Kerala from October to March, when it is sunny but not too hot. After April, temperatures really rise; then, from late June, the monsoon season strikes until early September. But don't be completely deterred by the rain – not only is Kerala still beautiful then, but in this July to September period, it is considered the ideal time to take Ayurvedic treatments.
Getting there
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
- Planes
- Kochi (Cochin) and Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) are the main airports. If you're flying from the UK, Emirates is a good option, as flies in and out of both from Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham and Glasgow via Dubai. Internally, South India has a busy network of air services. To access Lakshadweep, you'll need to fly from Cochin to Aggatti Island.
- Boats
- The only real boating options are the backwater trips (most depart from Alleppey). You can get to Lakshadweep or Laccadives islands by boat from Agatti.
- Trains
- Trains are the most popular way to traverse this vast country, and most that travel through Kerala start or finish in Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum), the state capital. Visit the Indian Railways website to book tickets online: http://irctc.co.in. Try and avoid passenger trains; air-conditioned 'superfast' express services are advisable. First-class is recommended although by western standards not necessarily luxurious.
- Automobiles
- This is not somewhere you’ll want to take the wheel yourself. Ask your hotel to organise you a driver, preferably in a 4x4 for lengthy journeys – and make sure to request a car with seatbelts. The more intrepid might want to hire an Enfield Bullet – the classic motorbike of choice.
Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best Kerala has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
Keenly Kerala
Yeah, we know it's a cliché, but no trip to Kerala is complete without a watery wend through the beautiful meandering backwaters. This lush paradise offers a slice of nature and village llife like no other.
- Viewpoint
- Take a trip to Kanyakumari, or Kanniyakumarithe, the tippy toe of India, or Cape Comorin, where the three seas meet: the Arabian Sea, the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal.
- Arts and culture
- With such a fascinating history, which has had influences from so many cultures, Kerala’s offerings are rich, both architecturally and artistically. If you get the chance to see a Kathakali dance performance, they’re worth catching, just to ogle the theatrical headgear and brightly coloured make-up alone.
- Something for nothing
- Take a stroll through Fort Cochin and watch the Chinese fishing nets at work – a postcard-perfect photo opportunity if ever there was one.
- Shopping
- There are handicrafts emporia, to purchase the many artisan-produced goods such as Kathakali masks – based on the colourful traditional dance costumes. And don’t go home without purchasing spices – every aroma and seasoning is on offer here, more than likely at a fraction of the cost back home. The antique shops of Fort Cochin's Jew Town are worth a browse, although the bargains are long-gone. For clothing and pretty toiletries, we love FabIndia (www.fabindia.com). In Alleppey, Maheshwari Fabric Shop on Mullickal Street for cotton shirts, saris, silk.
- Daytripper
- Spend a day sightseeing around historic Fort Cochin by rickshaw; see the famous Chinese fishing nets, the Dutch Palace, Jewish Synagogue and Jew Town, St Francis Church where Vasco da Gama was buried. Alleppey is another city worth a decent ogle. Once a bustling trade capital, and known as the 'Venice of the East', it is centred on two canals, and a good place to see artisans at work; keep an eye out for the flocks of bats at dusk…
- Best beach
- The white sands of Marari Beach, near Alleppey.
- Activities
- Nature lovers must pay a visit to Thekkady – thick, evergreen forest interspersed with spice plantations. There, in the southern Western Ghats mountain ranges is Periyar Tiger Reserve (www.periyartigerreserve.org), home to elephants, hornbills and monkeys as well as the large stripey cats.
- And...
- One anti-bug bite theory is to dose up on Brewer’s Yeast, which is rich in vitamin B and then you just won’t seem so tasty to the little bloodsuckers.
Diary
January The Great Elephant March in Alleppey (Alappuzha) and Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram). April–May sees the most spectacular festival in Medom, Thrissur Pooram, the temple festival. August The second Saturday of the month sees Nehru Snake Boat Race in Alleppey: 100 men in a long, slim boats, rowing and chanting songs and racing along the famous Kerala backwaters. In 2006, a group of foreign women took part for the first time.
Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Kerala. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your favourite threads…
Cafés
Kashi Art Café
This quirky coffee-stop combines a contemporary art gallery in a restored colonial house with a cute café at the back where sophisticated locals and discerning travellers gather to enjoy a cheap-and-cheerful continental breakfast or soup-and-sandwich lunches. Open 8.30am until 7.30pm.
Burgher Street, Fort Cochin, 682001
(+91 (0)484 221 5769)
Restaurants
Fort Kochi
The ultimate destination for seafood lovers. The bamboo-furnished setting feels suitably coastal even though you are in fact in a hotel complex, and it's surprisingly romantic. The made-fresh-for-you dishes such as lobster or crab are utterly melt-in-the-mouth.
Casino Hotel, Willingdon Island, Kerala
(+91 (0)484 266 8221)
Bars and clubs
Loungevity
A modern minimalist cocktail bar, where female visitors get two drinks on the house on Wednesday nights.
Avenue Regent Hotel, 39/2026, M.G Road, Cochin, Kerala
(+91 (0)484 237 7977)
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith
Pictured: Marari Beach Resort
