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Boutique hotels in Provence

Holidays in Provence, France

Self-catering properties in Provence

Provence Overview

France

Countryside
Scenes from Van Gogh
Country life
Whole lotta rosé

The south-west area of Provence is a land of light and colour, where the languid river Rhône winds its way through fruit orchards and fields of lavender before melting into the watery maze of the Camargue.

The wild dunes and marshes of the Med coast are the domain of cowboys, white horses and neon-pink flamingos. Inland, Arles, and its laidback neighbour Nîmes in Languedoc-Rousillon, are a beguiling blend of Roman amphitheatres, Provençal cuisine, café culture and sun-dappled boulevards. From the dramatic clifftop village of Les Baux, set among the olive groves, vines and craggy uplands of the Alpilles, you can look out across a land of Van Gogh, sunflowers and starry, starry nights.

Perfectly Provence

The Camargue is a coastal wilderness of marshes, dunes and flamingo-specked salt flats, with whitewashed houses and gypsy villages. gardians (cowboys) watch over the region’s famous herds of black bulls and white horses.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Use a taxi rank or have your hotel order a cab. Prices are cheaper than on the Côte d’Azur, but there may be a charge for luggage.

Tipping culture
A 15 per cent service charge is included in French restaurant and café bills by law; it’s usual to round up the bill or leave a few euros, as well.

Siesta and Fiesta
Businesses are normally open 09h–12h, and 14h–18h. Banks close at 16h30. Restaurants get busy after 21h and are often closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Packing tips
Take cobble-friendly sandals rather than stilettos, and pack binoculars and mosquito repellent for the Camargue.

Recommended reads
The Yellow House: Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Nine Turbulent Weeks in Arles by Martin Gayford; Caesar's Vast Ghost: Aspects of Provence by Lawrence Durrell.

Cuisine
Provence’s cuisine du soleil is bursting with sun-ripened fruit and vegetables. Local specialities include bouillabaisse and red-wine stews known as daubes. There are excellent tapas in Spanish-influenced Nîmes. Seek out the refreshing rosé wines of Provence.

Currency
Euro (€).

Dialling codes
Country code for France: 33. Provence: (0)4.

Do go/don't go
Spring and autumn are perfect: the weather is warm and there are fewer crowds. May is a riot of flowers, and September sees the grape harvest.


Provence Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Provence


L'Hôtel Particulier

Provence, France

Style
Urban mansion

Setting
Aristocratic Arles

This chic L'Hôtel Particulier in the ancient city of Arles has crisp-linened beds and Provençal furniture in its huge whitewashed boudoirs.

Check availability

Château de Massillan

Vaucluse, Provence, France

Style
Hip historical

Setting
Secluded meadows

This stylish château hotel near Orange effortlessly blends 18th-century chaise longues, antique mirrors and Murano chandeliers with contemporary chic, and has recently been tastefully refurbished.

Book now

Domaine des Andéols

Provence, France

Style
Provençal hillside hamlet

Setting
Lavender fields and olive groves

Don’t be fooled by the weathered stone exteriorof this boutique hotel in Provence, Domaine des Andeóls is as hip-to-the-minute as they come, with chic modern furnishings in each of its super-slick suites, and Michelin star-meriting Alain Ducasse cuisine.

Book now

Jardins Secrets

Languedoc-Roussillon, France

Style
Classical gilt and toiles

Setting
Roman Nîmes

The communal areas of the tranquil Jardins Secrets hotel in Nîmes are littered with books, photographs, musical paraphernalia and aviaries full of tiny singing birds.

Book now

Hotel Crillon le Brave

Provence, France

Style
Private eyrie

Setting
Hilltop turrets

Stylishly designed and peacefully situated, Hotel Crillon le Brave is a beautiful boutique hotel in Provence that looks out over the vine-covered plain of Vaucluse.

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L'Oustau de Baumanière

Provence, France

Style
Chic country retreat

Setting
Rocks and ruins of Les Baux

A beautiful boutique hotel set in beautiful countryside near Les Baux de Provence, L'Oustau de Baumanière is world-famous for its exquisite haute cuisine.

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La Bastide de Moustiers

Provence, France

Style
Ducasse's enticing inn

Setting
Gorgeous Provençal gardens

La Bastide de Moustiers is Alain Ducasse’s hillside hideaway, and along with its obligatory wow-factor restaurant, the hotel showcases local craftsmanship, from the sheets to the teacups.

Check availability

La Maison sur la Sorgue

Provence, France

Style
Spacious souvenir-clad pad

Setting
Pretty Provençal market square

La Maison sur la Sorgue in Provence is a worldly boutique hotel scattered with magpie-picked pieces from all over the place.

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La Villa Gallici

Provence, France

Style
Grown-up grandeur

Setting
Edge of old-town Aix

Honey-coloured Villa Gallici on the edge of Aix-en-Provence is a lavish and luxe boutique hotel with a decadently decorated interior.

Check availability

Le Couvent des Minimes

Provence, France

Style
Characterful converted convent

Setting
Lush L’Occitane land

Inspired by the lavender, roses and verbena growing in the grounds, Le Couvent des Minimes Hôtel & Spa is a paean to L’Occitane.

Check availability

Le Mas de la Rose

Provence, France

Style
Fabulous farmhouse finesse

Setting
Van Gogh country

Le Mas de la Rose is a 17th-century cluster of converted farm buildings high on a hillside, surrounded by olive and pine trees and lavender.

Check availability



Getting there

Holidays in Provence, France

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
There are regular flights to Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, Nice, Montpellier and Nîmes; obviously the airport you choose will depend on which part of Provence you're staying in and which entry point is most accessible from your local airport.
Trains
The TGV from Paris to Avignon and Nîmes takes three hours.
Automobiles
A car is only necessary if you want to explore the countryside. Inter-city transport is good and town centres are often pedestrianised.

Boutique hotels in Provence

Holidays in Provence, France

Self-catering properties in Provence

Provence Activities

Highlights the best Provence has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Provence itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
There’s a wonderful view towards the Camargue from the battlements of the fortress in Les Baux-de-Provence. In summer, go early in the morning to avoid the crowds.

Arts and culture
The 20,000-seat Roman amphitheatre in Nîmes doubles as a bullring and theatre venue. Nîmes’ beautiful Maison Carrée temple occupies the site of the old Roman forum. Arles has an equally impressive amphitheatre, also used for hosting cultural events. Just outside Les Baux-de-Provence, Cathédrale d’Images is a huge cave in which famous artworks related to the area are projected onto its walls (www.cathedrale-images.com).

Something for nothing
Vincent Van Gogh painted almost 200 paintings during the year or so he spent in Arles. Many of the spots where he worked are marked by a series of panels dotted around the city.

Shopping
Uzès, north of Nîmes, has a Saturday market selling home-making goodies, from honey to linen quilts. Rue de la Madeleine in Nîmes is great for window-shopping. Buy slabs of nougat, almond-paste callisons and pastries from Maison Villaret and costume jewellery from Météorite. Aix-en-Provence has a wide range of design boutiques on Rue Fabrot, and a fantastic food market every day on Place Richelme.

Daytripper
Montpellier is one of the most energetic and prosperous cities of Mediterranean France. The vast Place de la Comédie is a good starting point for an exploration.

Activities
The best way to see the Camargue is gardian-style, on horseback: go to www.promenadedesrieges.com for details. Kayak down the Gardon river to the towering Roman aqueduct of Le Pont du Gard, with Kayak Vert in Collias (+33 (0)4 66 22 80 76).

Diary

Mid-May Feria de Pentecôte celebrations in Nîmes include bullfights in the amphitheatre. 24–26 May Gypsies from all over Europe gather in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer to pay their respects to St Sarah, the Black Madonna. July The Festival d’Aix-en-Provence is an opera festival that attracts world-class performers (www.festival-aix.com). Early September With paella, sangria and bull-running, the Rice Festival in Arles feels decidedly Spanish.

Boutique hotels in Provence

Provence eating, drinking and dancing

Self-catering properties in Provence

Provence
Eating, drinking and dancing

A selection of Mr & Mrs Smith's favourite restaurants, bars and cafés in Provence. There are more Smith favourites just across the border in nearby Languedoc-Roussillon and Vaucluse, so check out our eating and drinking recommendations in those destinations, too.

Restaurants

(+33 (0)4 90 91 07 69)

L’Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel

Tucked away on a narrow alley close to the town hall and a short stumble from the Roman amphitheatre, this diminutive 35-seater packs considerable punch in the haute cuisine arena. Book ahead to taste ‘surprise’ menus of 10 or 16 light courses, all created by the immensely talented chef Jean-Luc with sensational seasonal ingredients from the restaurant’s privately commandeered bio-dynamic kitchen farm.

7 rue des Carmes, 13200 Arles

(+33 (0)4 66 37 05 04)

Restaurant L’Amphitryon

Spoil yourself at this sweet courtyard restaurant in postcard-perfect Castillon. Traditional-with-a-twist French dishes created with seasonal, local produce: we loved the roast turbot with fennel and baked clams; and the rack of piglet with a balsamic reduction. The wine list and the cheese trolley are a downright dangerous combination, and you’ll probably want one of the puddings, too, so go for dinner, and go hungry.

Place du Vieux Village, 30210 Castillon du Gard

(+33 (0)4 90 97 26 96)

La Chassagnette

Deep in the Camargue, in a building that used to be a sheepfold, this restaurant is unmissable. Sit in the kitchen garden at lunchtime and enjoy their modern organic, bio-dynamic cuisine. The restaurant even supplies diners with straw hats on sunny days. Typical dishes include squid stuffed with fennel, grilled gilthead sea bream with mushroom fricassé, lamb tagine, and Camargais bull steaks. Reservations advisable. Closed in winter (www.chassagnette.fr).

Route du Sambuc, 13200 Arles, Provence

(+33 (0)4 66 67 29 15)

Le Lisita

This restaurant next to the amphitheatre in Nîmes is a stylish option with a fine, seasonally adjusted menu based around local suppliers and ingredients.

Boulevard des Arènes, 2, 3000 Nîmes

(+33 (0)4 66 76 11 00)

Le Magister

Established over 20 years ago, Le Magister is an intimate, family-run restaurant with an extensive menu of Provençal specialities and fine wines of the Languedoc region.

rue Nationale 5, Nîmes

(+33 0(4) 90 90 60 34)

Chez Bru

Run by a Belgian couple, Chez Bru, aka Le Bistrot d’Eygalières, is a Michelin-starred place of pilgrimage for gourmets. Their salt-marsh lamb is perfection.

rue de la République, Eygalières

(+33 04 90 95 98 89)

Le Petit Bru

Chez Bru’s baby sister bistro is very popular, with good reason – the food is excellent.

Avenue Jean Jaurès, Eygalières

(+33 (0)4 90 18 25 05)

Le Cilantro

In the heart of the historic town centre of Arles, this modern, contemporary restaurant offers world cuisine with a Mediterranean influence, a wide selection of wines and a good-value fixed-price lunchtime menu.

rue Porte de Laure, 13, Arles



©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith