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Whether you’re at the top of Montmartre or the bottom of the Eiffel Tower, in the Louvre or on the Left Bank, Paris is chic to its bones and still pushing style frontiers. Between the gothic cathedrals and grand neoclassical avenues are timely flashes of futuristic bravura: La Grande Arche, the Pompidou Centre and L’Institute du Monde Arabe all proving that Paris’ revolutionary spirit is still very much alive and kicking. Hold hands in a fleamarket, hunt down fashion and foodie delicacies in the Marais, pay tribute to boutique pioneer Colette, then, when you’ve filled your boutique boots, head to Belleville or Oberkampf for a shot of gritty realism.
Visit Musée Carnavalet on Rue de Sévigné for an engaging history of the 1789 revolution. Turn teatime into an elegant ritual at Mariage Frères on Rue du Bourg-Tibourg. Feast your eyes at Crazy Horse on Avenue George V (www.lecrazyhorseparis.com) – a cabaret performance in a small theatre where drinks are brought to your seat, meaning you never have to tear your gaze from the semi-naked burlesque dancing girls. Bonheur at the legendary Lido Theatre on Avenue des Champs-Elysées (www.lido.fr) is another kitsch cabaret show that can be lots of fun.
… getting lost: Parisian delights are more often found off the beaten path: musicians practising in a quiet leafy square; buying a few cartes postales at an independent stationery shop; a perfect café crème on a spring morning; stumbling into a back-street art studio.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Paris
This artful Hotel Sezz in Paris' 16th arrondissement has a spectacular classical façade concealing incroyable contemporary cool, with Christophe Pillet-designed furniture.
Behind the classic Haussman façade, Hotel Lumen’s art deco interiors are a symphony in red and grey, with a dramatic pyramidal chandelier reflected in the polished flagstone floor.
Pershing Hall is a designer hotel and spa between the Champs-Elysees, the Avenue Montaigne and the Avenue George and is chic enough to make you swoon.
Hôtel Daniel in Paris blends near and Far East with classic French flair: Toile de Jouy, hand-painted wallpapers and Khotan carpets create a vision of delicate Chinoiserie.
Situated on the same Paris street that was once home to Gauguin and Modigliani, Hôtel des Academies et des Arts is the epitome of Left Bank chic.
Currently being run by its fourth generation of women, Hôtel Duo in Paris is a super-stylish, very feminine retreat in the centre of the lively Marais. Its Jean-Christophe Nuel-designed interior exudes modern luxury.
All-white Hôtel Le A in Paris is not really a boutique hotel but rather a work of art with bedrooms and a buzzing lounge bar attached: a great base if you want to be on the Right Bank.
Each room at this hidden hotel on the Montmartre hillside has been designed by a different contemporary artist – making a stay at Hotel Particulier Montmartre like spending the night in an especially cosy gallery.
A handy five minutes from the Paris Eurostar terminal is an achingly hip temple to all things futuristic: Kube. This unique boutique hotel is on a mission to turn you into one of its distinct tribe of fun-loving, tech-savvy design aficionados.
It may be the place where Oscar Wilde quipped his last, but opulent boutique hotel L’Hôtel, on Paris’ arty Left Bank, is so much more than a fin-de-siècle relic. It is as much of a destination stay as ever.
This luxury boutique hotel in Paris has the feel of an exclusive private members' club. Light-soaked minimalist interiors by Starck collaborator Bruno Borrione and a central location in Saint-Germain make Le Placide a chic base for a whirlwind city break.
Murano Resort Paris is a freaky, fabulous funhouse on the inside. Stepping into the white and silver lobby is like landing on the set of 2001: A Space Odyssey.
Set aside from the bustling boutiques of Paris’ most famous street, Hotel Keppler houses designer Pierre-Yves Rochon’s sumptuous blend of the contemporary and the classic.
With its semi-hidden reception, art-filled rooms and open feel, the elegant Montalembert in Paris feels more like a private apartment building than a boutique hotel.
Sleekly neutral and extravagantly roomy, La Réserve Paris is a top-drawer set of serviced apartments facing the Eiffel Tower, perfect for groups of family or friends.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
May Saint Germain Jazz Festival gets the Rive Gauche swinging into life and tapping its Louboutin-clad toes. May–June The French Open tennis championship brings grand-slam glamour to the City of Lights (www.fft.fr/rolandgarros). June La Fête de la Musique on the 21st celebrates the start of summer and sees the streets lined with stages for live bands (www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr). June–July Paris Jazz Festival – free weekend concerts in Parc Floral (www.parcfloraldeparis.com). July Bastille Day, a public holiday with a huge parade down the Champs-Elysées on the 14th, is followed a week later by the opening of Paris Plage, the city’s temporary urban beach. August– September Open-air Classical Music Festival in Parc Floral (www.parcfloraldeparis.com). October Paris stays up all night for the nocturnal arts party dubbed Nuit Blanche.
This small deli cum café sells truffles in every size, shape and style, as well as other gourmet treats. The café menu is chock-full of truffle-inspired dishes – a lunch-time must for fans of the delicious walnutty delicacy.
19 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
The epicerie and traiteur par excellence, this deli sells mouthwatering treats in signature red packaging. Chocolates, fruits, wine, cheeses, hams and freshly-ground coffees all create a considerable problem for the indecisive shopper. There are several branches in Paris, but at Place de la Madeleine there is also an informal restaurant upstairs, in which to sample the fine French fare.
21 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
Beloved of fashionistas for its melt-in-the-mouth macaroons in pretty pastel colours, this is original outpost of Ladurée, the chocolatier and tea shop. Founded in 1862, it was the first Parisian café to welcome women through its doors. The 19th-century frescos, inspired by the Sistine Chapel, have been beautifully restored, and provide a grand setting for fancy-sandwich brunches or sugar-coated high teas. There are also branches on the Champs Elysées and on the rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain.
16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris
Another Saint-Germain institution, this literary café takes its name not from an unwelcome salad addition but from a popular 19th-century play. As well as French literary giants, this is the place where Paul Eluard first introduced Picasso to Dora Maar. Get acquainted with your muse over a glass of wine and the plat du jour.
6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris
Café-culture hunters will want to stop for a quick crème, cognac or sole meunière at Lipp, the third of Saint-Germain's 'big three' cafés and a left-bank icon.
151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
One of the most famous cafés in Paris, Flore was the favoured hangout of some of France’s most important artists, writers and philosophers, including Guillaume Apollinaire, André Breton, Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sastres. Pop in for a lunchtime omelette or cheese plate and watch the world go by.
172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
The edible artistry served up at this opulently decorated restaurant has stimulated the appetite of lovers both past and present; if it’s good enough for Napoleon and Josephine, it’s good enough for Mr & Mrs Smith. Famous dishes include the Breton lobster with green apple jus, grilled turbot and artichokes with pineapple-sage infused oil, and cabbage sorbet with dark chocolate sauce. Don’t be scared to experiment, every dish has earned its place on this dazzle-dust strewn menu. Parisian food at its most swoon-worthy.
17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001 Paris
Open since 1912, and now part of the Ducasse group, this traditional brasserie-style restaurant is arguably the best of its kind in Paris. It's great for lunch – the food is fantastic and so is the company – Mrs Smith was delighted to see Liam Neeson dining at the next table. Ask for a window seat and watch out for famous passers-by.
20 rue St Martin, 75004 Paris
This charming Saint-Germain eaterie is slightly out of the way, but more than worth the effort for classic French cuisine, cheery service and great desserts.
12 Rue Lanneau, Paris 75005
Alain Senderens had three Michelin stars, but, having made his mark and wanting to do his own thing, he gave them all back, closed his restaurant and opened this modern brasserie-style restaurant instead. Needless to say, the food is amazing, and the setting blends trad French with deco-tinged futuristic – the venue was designed by Noé Duchaufour Lawrance, the creative talent behind Sketch in London. Get a table for two in the side room off to the left.
9 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
A French and Asian (not fusion) menu in a very relaxed, modern and artful setting designed by Christian Liaigre. It’s buzzy at lunchtime and in the evenings, so you’ll need a reservation. Ask for a window seat.
15 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris
This Guy Savoy restaurant moments from the Champs Elysées serves up beautifully prepared classic French cuisine. The setting is slightly formal, and it’s a ‘dress for dinner’ place, but the atmosphere is relaxed. Sip fine wine at the bar before taking your table and sampling dishes from frog’s legs to grapefruit terrine, via roast venison.
3 rue Arsène Houssaye, 75008 Paris
A cosy, relaxed Moroccan bar and restaurant with low-level seating, a fun atmosphere and flattering candlelight. If North African tagines and curries are not your thing, there are other international and French dishes to choose from. It’s always busy, but try to make sure you get a table away from the kitchens (noisy) and the main entrance (draughty).
37 rue Berger, 75001 Paris
This classic restaurant and bar behind the Louvre is much-loved and packed by night; come for a relaxed champagne brunch instead. Avoid tables by the door if possible.
6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 75001 Paris, France
This restaurant is a favourite with celebs, serving Asian and French fusion in a stylish lounge; it's also ideal for a pre-prandial drink.
105 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
This popular place on Avenue Montaigne is a sleek all-white eatery with views over the city, and of the Eiffel Tower from some tables. Book in advance.
15 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
For incredible cityscape views, try this stylish postmodern restaurant serving international cuisine at the top of the Richard Rogers' Centre Pompidou, open till 1am. Reservations essential.
Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 75191 Paris
This wonderful space is part wine shop and épicerie, and part restaurant serving excellent bistro dishes. Pop in for a verre du vin and great-value prix-fixe menu beneath shelves of tinned foie gras, jars of mustard and flasks of olive oil.
30 Rue Gay-Lussac, 75005 Paris
Philippe Starck-designed bar and restaurant, in a crystal gallery-cum-shop (extravagant chandeliers, grand revamped interiors); seasonal French fare. Book ahead.
11 Place des États-Unis, 75116 Paris
Another great Philippe Starck effort with a flower-filled Perspex bar amd jaunty Japanese pop vibe, this relaxed and hip restaurant and bar over the Kenzo store overlooking Pont-Neuf; request a table on the upper floor by the glass roof.
1 rue du Pont-Neuf, 75001 Paris
In the chicest of cities, the chicest people of head to this sleek rendez-vous at the grande dame Hôtel Plaza Athénée to gossip over cocktails. Interiors by Patrick Jouin and drinks by Paris' most capable bartenders make it a popular venue with Paris' power players, so you'll have to dress to impress to secure entry.
25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
Formerly a cinema foyer, this club underwent a hugely expensive refurb to become Paris' most popular style bar. The interiors are glossy, dramatic and as futuristic as a sci-fi film set.
78 Avenue Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
On the 33rd floor of the Concorde La Fayette hotel, this bar has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.
3 Place du Général Koenig, 75017 Paris
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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