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Despite countless imitators, there is only one Riviera and one Côte d’Azur, and the original retains a distinctive cachet that keeps the starlets and socialites flocking here year-round. The high-rollers may glitter in the chic beach bars and fine French restaurants, but it’s the coast itself, floating between the green mountains and the warm indigo sea, that outshines everything. The landscape of parasol pines and terracotta-hued villas is bathed in Provençal light and colour, where Picasso and Matisse paid hotel bills in masterpieces just for the chance to stay another day.
The chip-flipping heart of Monaco is Monte Carlo and its glittering cast of casinos. Brush shoulders with Bond wannabes at the roulette tables of Casino de Monte Carlo - Charles Garnier's 19th-century marbled palace - Café de Paris or Le Sporting Club. You don't need to be a member, but Mr Smith will need a jacket and tie and you'll both need photo ID.
Strolling along the strand in Cannes - aka La Croisette - as the sun goes down, and popping into the art deco Martinez Hotel for pre-dinner pastis.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Côte D'azur (east)
The rustic house and lavender-filled garden of this Côte d'Azur hotel contrast with Toile Blanche's modern interior; polished concrete is mixed with bold colours and striking art.
All the rooms in this art-lover's paradise of La Maison du Frêne are large enough to feel like your own apartment, decorated with the owners own private collection.
Les Rosées boutique hotel – 400 years old in parts – blends luxury and intimacy with artistic flair: hand-made antiques and rich fabrics contrast with crisp linens and delicate tapestries to create an esoteric, magical vision of Provençal style.
Lush gardens and fragrant countryside surround Bastide Saint Mathieu, a stately historic house with rural grandeur and classic French charm.
Top of the class for architecture and design, Cap d’Antibes Beach Hotel has as much glitter as the surrounding sea, with its polished glass and concrete planes.
On a secluded peninsula snaking into the Med, Cap Estel’s mansion is a shot of Riviera glam amid the azure.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
February Monte Carlo’s glamorous Primo Cup sailing competition fills the marina (www.yacht-club-monaco.mc). April The Tennis Masters attracts the top players (www.masters-series.com/montecarlo). May The Cannes Film Festival lures industry bods and gong-hopeful A-listers to town, for premieres, parties and paparazzi opps (www.festival-cannes.fr). It’s followed by the Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix (www.monte-carlo.mc/formule1) and the Classic Car Grand Prix (www.acm.mc). July The final week of the Nice jazz festival takes place, principally in the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre (www.nicejazzfest.com). August It's Ramatuelle's turn to bring out the brass and blue notes at their annual jazz gathering (www.jazzfestivalramatuelle.com). The Pantiero Festival in Cannes stages electro gigs at the Palais des Festivals (www.festivalpantiero.com). September Les Etoiles de Mougins brings chefs from across the Continent to the mediaeval village for demonstrations, tastings and general gastro celebrations (www.lesetoilesdemougins.com).
No trip to Monaco is complete without at least a drink at the café next to the casino, across the street from the Hôtel de Paris. It’s not just a tourist trap either; there are still some local regulars.
Place du Casino, Monaco
One of Cannes’ best known and most popular café terraces is always packed, come summer or winter (when it’s heated). Order an ice cream and do a bit of celebrity-spotting.
Square Mérimée, 1, Cannes
On the top floor of the Grimaldi Forum facing the sea, this swanky bar and restaurant with sunny terrace, soft seats and a sea view is great for pre-dinner drinks or late-night glam.
Avenue Princesse Grace, 10, Monte Carlo
This country-house restaurant serves excellent French cuisine, on a terrace under the trees - check out the ‘cigar cave’.
Avenue Henri-Dunant, Grasse
Since 1920 Tetou has been the destination for anyone after proper bouillabaisse on the Côte d'Azur. According to the beachside restaurant’s website, they treat the traditional fish stew ‘like precious gems’. Can’t be bad.
Avenue des Frères Roustan, Golfe Juan
On the Riviera, 5km from Cannes, Le Moulin is a mixture of traditional and contemporary decor which includes silver Baroque chandeliers and a sculpture garden. Plenty of A-listers have given this place the thumbs-up.
Notre Dame de Vie, Mougins
This restaurant is great for fresh fish, caught every morning and grilled to perfection. The dessert menu is also impressive.
Rue St-Antoine, Cannes
Dress up for lunch or dinner at this two Michelin-starred, film-festival-related restaurant, overlooking the Baie de Cannes.
Martinez Hotel, La Croisette, 73, Cannes
Jimmy'z has seen every celebrity and sports star you’d care to mention pass through its doors at some point. One look at the prices of champagne and cocktails tells you all you need to know – that models and millionaires are Jimmy’z target customers.
Avenue Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo
Spot celebrities among the well-heeled crowd while indulging in some quality cocktail-sipping and lounging on the beachside veranda with palm trees and candle-lit tables.
Port Pierre Canto, Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes
One of the coast’s most glamorous nightspots, which is saying something. Looking the part is all-important.
Byblos hotel, Avenue Paul Signac, St Tropez
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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