Printable destination guide
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Bordeaux
France
- Cityscape
- Grand designs
- City life
- Le monde des gourmands
Bordeaux is a city of grandeur and sophistication, of old money and legendary vintages, where connoisseurs can take the time to savour wines and cuisine perfected over generations.
This grande dame on the banks of the softly-flowing Garonne ages with effortless grace; its wide boulevards, majestic squares and elegant 18th-century mansions are filled with timeless charm. Surrounded by ancient châteaux and some of the most valuable vineyards in the world, each autumn harvest brings another crop of imperious reds and sweet whites. Beyond, the precious earth fades into the dunes of the Atlantic seaboard, where the waters are rich with oysters and seafood destined for the tables of the Bordeaux’s gourmands. Here the good life is served on a plate and time is measured by the popping of corks.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
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Highlights the best Bordeaux has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
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We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Bordeaux.
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From the baffling warren of streets in the heart of Bordeaux to the vineyards in the surrounding countryside, our interactive map will guide you.
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Local knowledge
- Taxis
- There are taxi ranks throughout the city. If you need to order a taxi, try Allo Bordeaux Taxis 05 56 31 61 07.
- Tipping culture
- Service charges are included automatically on all French restaurant bills but it’s usual to leave a few euros for the waiter.
- Siesta and Fiesta
- Some smaller shops close 12h30–14h30, even in the city centre. Restaurants are often closed on Sundays and Mondays outside the summer months.
- Packing tips
- A map of the Bordeaux and Bergerac wine regions.
- Recommended reads
- Wines of Bordeaux by David Peppercorn; French Lessons: Adventures with Knife, Fork and Corkscrew by Peter Mayle.
- Cuisine
- The cuisine of Bordeaux blends Atlantic seafood with the rich produce of the neighbouring Dordogne and Périgord regions. Oysters, eel, lamprey and sturgeon are all local specialities, as are river fish grilled over vine twigs. This is also the place to enjoy purple and green asparagus, foie gras and delicious lamb from Pauillac. It goes without saying that Bordeaux wine is some of the finest in the world. The Bergerac region also has some excellent wines at reasonable prices.
- Currency
- Euro.
- Dialing codes
- Country code for France: 33. Bordeaux: 05. Drop the zero when dialling locally.
- Do go/don't go
- The summer is pleasantly warm, but August can be humid and the city crowded with tourists. Book in advance if you want to visit the vineyards at this time of year. Many châteaux are closed to visitors during the grape harvest in October. Winter is mild.
Getting there
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
- Planes
- Bordeaux-Mérignac airport is six miles from the city centre. There is a shuttle bus service to the centre every 45 minutes, taking half an hour.
- Trains
- TGV links Bordeaux to the Eurostar terminals in Paris (3hrs) and Lille (5hrs). The main station is about ten minutes outside the centre.
- Automobiles
- The warren of narrow one-way streets in the centre is largely pedestrianised, but it’s useful to have a car to visit the beach or follow the wine trails.
Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best Bordeaux has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
Beautifully Bordeaux
Bordeaux is perhaps the world’s greatest wine region and you can visit numerous vineyards and châteaux. In the Médoc region to the north of the city you can visit one of the finest vineyards at the world-famous Château Margaux; make a appointment first (www.chateau-margaux.com).
- Viewpoint
- The Hauterive Saint James hotel in the peaceful village of Bouliac, just outside Bordeaux, has wonderful views over the Garonne and the vineyards towards the city. The hotel was designed by cult modernist architect Jean Nouvel and has a fine gourmet restaurant serving excellent French cuisine.
- Arts and culture
- The riverfront was the source of Bordeaux’s wealth and is lined with mansions from the city’s heyday in the 18th century. La Place de la Bourse is the perfect choice for an evening stroll.
- Something for nothing
- The beautiful Jardins Public is an idyllic green space in the heart of the city, with ornamental lakes, landscaped gardens and secluded picnic spots.
- Shopping
- For boutiques brim-full with style, head to the streets around Place des Grands Hommes, particularly Cours de l’Intendance, Allées de Tourny and Cours Clemencau. Pick up gifts at Sequoia on Cours de Verdun and chic fabrics at Toiles de Mayenne on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The former wine merchants’ district of Chartrons has plenty of antique shops to explore along Rue Notre Dame. Gourmands should visit the Sunday morning market on the waterfront next to the battleship Colbert. There’s also a fleamarket around St Michael’s basilica on Saturday mornings.
- Daytripper
- Arcachon is a genteel belle époque seaside resort within easy reach of Bordeaux, perfect for a day on the wide sandy beach or strolling along the esplanade. It’s also and top spot to sample seafood and local oysters; try Café de la Plage on boulevard Veyrier Montagnères (+33 5 56 22 52 94).
- Best beach
- Just to the south of Arcachon are towering sand dunes where the beautiful beaches have a wild and windswept feel. You’ll need a car to reach the beach at Lacanau-Ocean northwest of Bordeaux which is popular with surfers.
- Activities
- You can learn more about the region’s wines (and get to sample several) at the Bordeaux Wine School (www.ecole.vins-bordeaux.fr). Wine tours of the vineyards can be organised via the Bordeaux Tourism Office (www.bordeaux-tourisme.com) or if you have your own transport you can contact the châteaux directly. The Atlantic coast is very popular for watersports in the summer, with some highly-rated surfing beaches. The cycling arena at the Stadium Velodrome de Bordeaux Lac holds major tournaments, but the public is also welcome to have a go.
Diary
- First week of July The four-day Fête du Vin is held on the riverside on even years celebrating Bordeaux’s most famous export with wine tasting, concerts and auctions (www.bordeaux-fete-le-vin.com). September The Médoc marathon winds its way through the vineyards and awards the winner their own bodyweight in claret. Third Sunday of September The town of St-Émilion announces the start of the wine harvest from the top of the Tour du Roi in the centre of town. November The Bordeaux Arts Festival sees a month-long programme of concerts, exhibitions and performances in venues around the city.
Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Bordeaux.
Cafés
Salon de The des Remparts
A cosy tea shop in the heart of the city with a few outside tables. Stop for ice cream, a cold drink, or choose from the wide selection of leaf teas. The also do great canelé - the little cinnamon flavoured cakes that are a speciality of Bordeaux.
Rue des Remparts, 19
(+33 556 90 03 03)
Musée Arts Décoratifs
If you’re visiting this rather elegant museum, you’ll find a lovely little tea room offering snacks and brunch, with a pretty, shady terrace to relax on.
rue Bouffard, 30
(+33 556 00 72 50)
Le Regent
We loved this classic brasserie with its sweeping semi-circular terrace (heated in winter) and long wooden counter. Sip a Lillet - an aperitif wine produced in the Bordeaux wine region.
place Gambetta, 46
(+33 556 44 16 20)
Restaurants
Le Chapon Fin
One of Bordeaux’s finest restaurants, with a wonderfully romantic, grotto-like atmosphere, it is also one of the very few Michelin-starred places to offer cookery courses.
rue Montesquieu 5
(+33 556 79 10 10)
La Tupina
This restaurant offers excellent terroir (regional) dishes, including spit-roast meats and delicious potatoes roasted in goose fat.
rue de la Porte de la Monnaie, 6
(+33 556 91 56 37)
Chez Greg
Located a stone's throw from the water, this popular restaurant combines traditional regional cuisine with a twist of international flavours.
quai de la Monnaie, 30
(+33 556 31 30 30)
Le Estacade
This modern timber and glass restaurant stands on stilts in the river, facing the Place de la Bourse. Enjoy the panoramic views and the Mediterranean and Atlantic flavours of the food.
quai de Queyries
(+33 556 54 02 50)
Le Café du Port
A waterfront eaterie in converted hangar offering one of the best seafood menus in town and overlooking the Garonne, the Pont de Pierre, the cathedral, and the renovated facades of the Left Bank.
quai Deschamps, 1
(+33 556 77 81 18)
Le Sélénite
A chic, rainbow-hued venue, established in 2002, which serves tasty dishes based on fresh local produce.
1 place Paul Avisseau/18 allée Stendhal
(+33 556 51 05 64)
Bars and clubs
La Calle Ocho
Funky, characterful, Cuban bar featuring battered leather sofas, mosaic walls, red lights and posters of Che Guevara. Great for salsa fans, the place really hots up on Friday and Saturday nights.
rue des Piliers de Tutelle, 24
(+33 556 48 08 68)
La Dame de Shanghai
There’s a lively scene at this old submarine dock, home to a floating nightclub, bar and French/Chinese fusion restaurant.
Bassin à Flot No.1, Quai Armand
(+33 557 10 20 50)
Le Pier 6
House, electro and techno tunes are played by big-name DJs to a young-ish crowd at this chic, energetic floating nightspot.
quai Armand Lalande, Bassin à flot
(+33 556 50 61 31)
Le Deck
Another destination in the old submarine dock, this nightclub plays a varied mix of music, so check out what’s on before heading down.
rue Lucien Faure, Bassin a Flot N°2
(+33 556 43 02 54)
©2008 Mr & Mrs Smith
Pictured: La Maison Bord’eaux
