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This grande dame on the banks of the softly-flowing Garonne ages with effortless grace; its wide boulevards, majestic squares and elegant 18th-century mansions are filled with timeless charm. Surrounded by ancient châteaux and some of the most valuable vineyards in the world, each autumn harvest brings another crop of imperious reds and sweet whites. Beyond, the precious earth fades into the dunes of the Atlantic seaboard, where the waters are rich with oysters and seafood destined for the tables of the Bordeaux’s gourmands. Here the good life is served on a plate and time is measured by the popping of corks.
Bordeaux is perhaps the world’s greatest wine region and you can visit numerous vineyards and châteaux. In the Médoc region to the north of the city you can visit one of the finest vineyards at the world-famous Château Margaux; make a appointment first (www.chateau-margaux.com).
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Bordeaux
The contemporary decor of these stylish rooms perfectly complement and contrast the 18th-century buildings of the peaceful La Maison Bord’eaux
Surrounded by seven acres of lush St-Emilion vineyard, this 16th-century château is at the heart of southern France’s wine country; Le Relais de Franc Mayne is a boutique hotel with barrelfuls of charm and cask-loads of style.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
A cosy tea shop in the heart of the city with a few outside tables. Stop for ice cream, a cold drink, or choose from the wide selection of leaf teas. The also do great canelé - the little cinnamon flavoured cakes that are a speciality of Bordeaux.
Rue des Remparts, 19
If you’re visiting this rather elegant museum, you’ll find a lovely little tea room offering snacks and brunch, with a pretty, shady terrace to relax on.
rue Bouffard, 30
We loved this classic brasserie with its sweeping semi-circular terrace (heated in winter) and long wooden counter. Sip a Lillet - an aperitif wine produced in the Bordeaux wine region.
place Gambetta, 46
One of Bordeaux’s finest restaurants, with a wonderfully romantic, grotto-like atmosphere, it is also one of the very few Michelin-starred places to offer cookery courses.
rue Montesquieu 5
This restaurant offers excellent terroir (regional) dishes, including spit-roast meats and delicious potatoes roasted in goose fat.
rue de la Porte de la Monnaie, 6
Located a stone's throw from the water, this popular restaurant combines traditional regional cuisine with a twist of international flavours.
quai de la Monnaie, 30
This modern timber and glass restaurant stands on stilts in the river, facing the Place de la Bourse. Enjoy the panoramic views and the Mediterranean and Atlantic flavours of the food.
quai de Queyries
A waterfront eaterie in converted hangar offering one of the best seafood menus in town and overlooking the Garonne, the Pont de Pierre, the cathedral, and the renovated facades of the Left Bank.
quai Deschamps, 1
A chic, rainbow-hued venue, established in 2002, which serves tasty dishes based on fresh local produce.
1 place Paul Avisseau/18 allée Stendhal
Funky, characterful, Cuban bar featuring battered leather sofas, mosaic walls, red lights and posters of Che Guevara. Great for salsa fans, the place really hots up on Friday and Saturday nights.
rue des Piliers de Tutelle, 24
There’s a lively scene at this old submarine dock, home to a floating nightclub, bar and French/Chinese fusion restaurant.
Bassin à Flot No.1, Quai Armand
House, electro and techno tunes are played by big-name DJs to a young-ish crowd at this chic, energetic floating nightspot.
quai Armand Lalande, Bassin à flot
Another destination in the old submarine dock, this nightclub plays a varied mix of music, so check out what’s on before heading down.
rue Lucien Faure, Bassin a Flot N°2
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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