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The Bohemian pride in culture and fringe arts is transforming its warehouse districts, with new bars and galleries, clubs and restaurants – Prague’s post-Communist renaissance has given its gastronomic fortunes a fillip, too.
Join locals at Barácnická Rychta, a wonderful old beer hall on Trziste in Malá Strana. Take in an opera at the Baroque Estates Theatre, where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni. Listen to trad jazz at the art nouveau Café Imperial on Na Porící.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Prague
Glass walls, shiny chrome and an open-plan scheme lend Hotel Josef a design-heavy aura different from any other boutique hotel in Prague.
Every shred of the decor in Prague's Hotel Yasmin is contemporary and comfortable, and the orange-suited check-in staff are super-friendly.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
Climb the stairs to this restaurant and there’s little indication that beyond the large front doors could exist such a Bohemian treasure. Dining in the private salon below a golden chandelier and baroque gilded mouldings is very special, if charmingly frayed around the edges. However, the food is unlikely to blow you away.
Palffy Palace Club, Valdštejnská 14
If you're in the mood for a low-key evening, you can't beat the excellent food, such as salads, classic European main courses, huge side orders of scalloped potatoes, lemon tarts, and sweet profiteroles, served up in this reasonably-priced bistro.
V Jircharich, 6
Stylish, contemporary restaurant and wine bar. Award-winning V Zátiší dishes up refined Czech and international food to a loyal group of locals, diplomats and business folk.
Liliova 1, Old Town
A bar and restaurant that would be equally at home in Paris, London or New York, this stunning venue is beloved by a sophisticated clientele for its cocktails and international cuisine, which draws inspiration from everywhere from Asia to Norway and Russia.
Pařížská 17
This popular restaurant serves traditional Czech food as well as French and Italian delicacies. For a special occasion, book a table overlooking the river and St Charles Bridge.
Na Kampě, 8b
The bright lights and cowhide trims of this light-hearted restaurant make it an obvious choice on the tourist circuit, but if you really crave a burger-and-chips kind of meal there are worse places for lunch than on its huge terrace right by the ramparts.
Nerudova, 40
Run by Panamanian/Canadian Ray, this is a groovy, friendly café with a cosy back patio and open-mike night on Sundays, is amazingly popular across both the Czech and expat scenes.
Opatovicka, 3
For a combination of art-nouveau style and traditional Czech food, head to this bar and restaurant, built in a former printing office.
V Kolkovně, 8
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith