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Hong Kong is now fully recovered from its handover hangover. When China took over the territory in 1997, some fickle-hearted souls fled for greener pastures. But, over the past few years, Hong Kong has been busy reaffirming its position as Asia’s most cosmopolitan city. Business is booming, and the bankers are still blowing their bonuses on elaborate cocktails in ever-sexier establishments. Rich local ladies, competing to see whose get-up boasts the most bling, are togged to the nines by couturier to the stars, Barney Cheng, while their husbands cut a dash in bespoke Berluti boots. The restaurant scene is buzzing like never before: Gagnaire, Robuchon, and Nobu have all opened here. Visitors can still do the traditional touristy things, like getting a suit tailor-made, suffering through the bad service at Luk Yu Tea House, or browsing crafts and antiques on Cat Street, but those in the know now go to Hong Kong for a slice of the high life, China-style.
For just a few cents, riding the lower deck of the 100-year-old Star Ferry that regularly crosses back and forth between Kowloon and Hong Kong, is probably the very best way to immerse oneself in the city: great views, real atmosphere – and virtually no expense. Of course, once you’ve done it, you can take the very comfortable and clean subway – as much a symbol of Hong Kong’s efficiency as the ferry is of the city’s beauty.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Hong Kong
Asia’s first Starck-designed hotel, Jia is a creamy boutique wonderland of teak and marble, draped in satin and dripping with style. Plus, the nightlife delights of Hong Kong’s Causeway Bay are on your doorstep.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
February–March The month-long Hong Kong Arts Festival showcases some of the world’s best performing artists (www.hk.artsfesival.org). March Hong Kong Sevens is one of the most famous rugby sevens tournaments in the world, seeing around two dozen national teams clashing on the pitch every year (www.hksevens.com).
May–June The Dragon Boat Festival in Stanley attracted around 15,000 people to the port to watch the frenetic amateur water-race and soak up the carnival atmosphere (www.dragonboat.org.hk). June–August The Hong Kong Shopping Festival (www.discoverhongkong.com/hksf). A good time to visit Hong Kong if you’re planning some serious retail therapy. December Hong Kong Winterfest (www.hkta.org/hkwf) Hong Kongers embrace the festive season by slashing prices once again.
Skip Starbucks and join the well-coiffed lunching ladies at this chic Italian café and patisserie in Pacific Place.
Level 3, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
This innovative northern Chinese effort comes fully equipped with a moody interior and stunning city views from its 28th-floor vantage point. The gorgeous food, especially the crispy mutton, keeps the punters coming back for more.
28/F, One Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
From the same people who opened Hutong, this subterranean stunner near Lan Kwai Fong offers astonishingly good Tibetan cuisine, maverick cocktails (with ingredients such as dried seahorse), and sumptuous ornate interiors.
Basement 43-55 Wyndham Street, Central
This unfeasibly trendy restaurant in the chic Jia hotel serves up chef Dale Clouston’s signature style of modern Australian cuisine.
1–5 Irving Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Gorge yourself on beautiful little bites of perfectly cooked French food in this slick red-and-black affair, when tapas-sized classic dishes make the perfect tasting menus.
Shop 401, 4/F The Landmark, 15 Queens Road, Central
One of Paris’ best chefs, Pierre Gagnaire, has opened in the newly renovated Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Sample the novel and creative cuisine that earned Gagnaire three Michelin stars.
The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road, Central
If you or your hotel’s concierge have serious cachet, it would be worth seeing if you can get into this ultra-exclusive dining club for a bite. Founded by mover, shaker and million-maker David Tang, this penthouse club in the old Bank of china building recreates Twenties’ art deco glamour. The food is as good as the interiors are chic.
Bank of China Building, Garden Road, Central
This exclusive underground night spot is at the top of the Hong Kong clubbing game – which is probably why it can be tough to get into.
Basement 38-44 D'Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong
This bar-cum-restaurant-cum-lounge-cum-club-cum-celeb-spotter’s-paradise has been a must-do night-time destination for five years and is showing no signs of toppling off its pedestal any time soon.
UG/F, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street, Central
On the 29th floor of Hotel LKF, this refined and laid-back lounge offers good food, decent drinks, and skyline views.
29/F Hotel LKF, 3 Wyndham Street , Central
Financial hawks nest at the high atop the Mandarin Oriental in this a dark and velvety space with floor-to-ceiling glass windows looking out onto the city.
5 Connaught Road, Central
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