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At its heart, the Forbidden City marks the historic nerve centre of imperial China, but the glossy skyscrapers, thriving street markets and buzzing bar and restaurant scene surrounding it cement Beijing's status as a thoroughly modern metropolis. One of the four ancient capitals of China, Beijing is a flat urban checkerboard with the Forbidden City standing proud in the centre. Until the 20th century came around, the five towering fortified gates and high walls marked the city borders, but since then shimmering skyscrapers of glass and steel have sprung up and the city has sprawled outwards. Traditional courtyard houses, siheyuan, occupy the heart of old Beijing, but among and around, striking modern architecture abounds. No longer content to remain Shanghai’s dowdier, bookish sister, Beijing is now a city that balances the best of both worlds — historic architecture and ancient monuments mingle with a buzzing cosmopolitan cityscape.
Contrary to pub-quiz belief, it's not visible from space, but the Great Wall of China is still a hugely impressive spectacle. Snaking for 4,000 miles through the crags and hills of the country's northern borders, it's the largest man-made structure on the planet and makes for a fantastic ramble. Skip the tourist-thronged Badaling section and, if you've sufficient outdoorsy spirit, make the hike from Simatai to Jinshanling. If not, take the chairlift trip up the wall at Simatai, and come back down again by bobsleigh.
...a stroll around the Forbidden City. Home to dynasty after dynasty of emperors, the gargantuan complex has been the centre of the Chinese universe for centuries, and now contains the largest collection of preserved wooden structures in the world.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Beijing
Glamorous, grand, glitzy and gorgeous, it’s easy to see what inspired Hotel G’s name – and its location – in Beijing’s suitably stylish Sanlitun district.
A shimmering glass building resembling a vast wooden lattice work, Beijing’s Opposite House is the strikingly designed centrepiece of Sanlitun village, an ultra-modern boutique hotel with three restaurants, two bars, and a lot of style.
A rustic and rambling collection of 10 stone cottages at the foot of a mountain, Manchurian hunting lodge Red Capital Ranch just outside Beijing offers serene simplicity with breath-stealing views of the Great Wall and its citadels.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
January–February The Spring Festival and Chinese New Year empties Beijing like a drain as its inhabitants return to their home villages to spend time with their families.
February Two weeks after the start of Spring Festival, the Lantern Festival, sees children and adults alike walking the streets bearing colourful lanterns of all shapes and sizes.
September–October Held when the moon is supposedly at its fullest and brightest, the Mid-Autumn Festival sees families and friends gather in the evening to nibble on sweet mooncakes (a round, thick biscuity pastry filled with lotus or red-bean paste and a salted egg yolk centre) and to admire the swollen moon.
The spiritual home of Beijing’s expat literati, this cool café, library, bookshop, and general temple to wordsmithery offers a regular programme of interesting talks and events, as well as a full dining menu and a tempting wine and whisky list.
Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100000
An authentic French bakery and café that offers some of the best baked goods the city has to offer. Enjoy a quiet afternoon sipping delicious hot chocolate and tucking into the signature chocolate and lemon tarts. The café also offers a variety of sandwiches and delicious freshly-churned gelato, with must-try flavours of lemon and mango.
(+86 (0)10 6461 1525)
Run by a Peruvian chef and her Portuguese husband, this cosy WiFi-equipped café is a lovely place to duck into for a leisurely recharge from frenetic Beijing. Specialties include killer hot chocolate paired with crisp and churros, and silky smooth egg tarts, together with an array of sandwiches, panini, cookies and other mouth-watering pastries. Their signature coffee is made from blend of Arabic beans sourced from four countries – Brazil, Indonesia, Peru and Portugal.
Rm.103, Building 7, Unit 7 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District
A favourite lunch spot among the expat crowd and Beijing cityboys, this urban-Zen-inspired eatery serves up fabulous and innovative Californian-style sushi and rolls. Also on the menu are Japanese favourites such as teppanyaki, tempura and miso cod.
2/F Heqiao Building C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
Occupying one of the last few remaining siheyuan courtyard houses along Financial Street, one would be hard pressed to find a more lusciously designed restaurant. Specialising in Northern Chinese dishes such as braised pork knuckle, cabbage and spinach rolls flavoured with punchy yellow mustard and wasabi jelly, and Beijing pancakes filled with goose liver and pork. Secret yourself on an intimate draped banquette at the side of the main dining area, then linger for a digestif at the aptly titled Black Bar, replete with glossy, eelskin-upholstered chairs, and pick from a variety of potent Chinese wines and cocktails. Look out for the fabulous birdcage installation as you enter the main dining room.
23A Jinrong Jie, Xidan/Financial Street, Xi Cheng District, Beijing
Renowned throughout Beijing for the unassailable quality of its Peking Duck, Da Dong delivers a perfectly crisp dish with a virtually fat-free skin. Enjoy free-flowing pancakes and sesame-studded shaobing puffs seals the deal. It’s a popular haunt, so be sure to call ahead, although the restaurant often can’t honour reservations made 6.30pm. However, if your table isn’t ready upon arrival, you can get free drinks at the bar.
22 Dongsi Shi Tiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing
A Beijing classic, Made in China offers some of the best north-eastern dishes in the capital, amid slick, dark lacquered surroundings and a glass-encased open-kitchen. Must-tries include the zhajiang mian (the Chinese equivalent of spaghetti bolognaise), beggar’s chicken, and Peking duck, which you should be sure to preorder (trust us, anything less than a whole bird simply won’t be enough).
1/F Grand Hyatt, 1 Chang An Jie, Dongcheng District
A tranquil tippling spot beside a scenic lake in picturesque Ritan Park that backs up its booze cupboard with a tempting tea selection, this faux Qing dynasty boat bar is run by Newsweek’s China correspondant and runs regular live jazz nights in summer.
Lakeside, Southwest corner of RItan Park, Chaoyang District, Beijing
The brainchild of Malaysian foodie Cho Chong Gee, Bed Bar & Tapas is a low-key watering hole hidden within a hutong a short walk from the Drum Tower. Inside you’ll find a well-heeled clientele sup mojitos while lounging on traditional Kang-style beds, amid antique furnishings and lots of smart bare concrete.
17 Zhangwang Hutong, Jiu Gulou Dajie, Gulou, Beijing
Settle into one of the plush armchairs in this spacious scarlet hotel bar, and celeb-watch the night away to a soundtrack of jazzy tunes from the nightly live band. Open 24 hours a day.
1/F, Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijng
©2010 Mr & Mrs Smith