Printable destination guide

For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.


Boutique hotels in Beijing

Holidays in Beijing, China

Beijing Overview

China

Cityscape
Ming imperial
City life
Business for pleasure

The construction's finished, the Olympics is over, and Beijing is still showing off its facelift to the world.

At its heart, the Forbidden City marks the historic nerve centre of imperial China, but the glossy skyscrapers, thriving street markets and buzzing bar and restaurant scene surrounding it cement Beijing's status as a thoroughly modern metropolis. One of the four ancient capitals of China, Beijing is a flat urban checkerboard with the Forbidden City standing proud in the centre. Until the 20th century came around, the five towering fortified gates and high walls marked the city borders, but since then shimmering skyscrapers of glass and steel have sprung up and the city has sprawled outwards. Traditional courtyard houses, siheyuan, occupy the heart of old Beijing, but among and around, striking modern architecture abounds. No longer content to remain Shanghai’s dowdier, bookish sister, Beijing is now a city that balances the best of both worlds — historic architecture and ancient monuments mingle with a buzzing cosmopolitan cityscape.

Beautifully Beijing

Contrary to pub-quiz belief, it's not  visible from space, but the Great Wall of China is still a hugely impressive spectacle. Snaking for 4,000 miles through the crags and hills of the country's northern borders, it's the largest man-made structure on the planet and makes for a fantastic ramble. Skip the tourist-thronged Badaling section and, if you've sufficient outdoorsy spirit,  make the hike from Simatai to Jinshanling. If not, take the chairlift trip up the wall at Simatai, and come back down again by bobsleigh.

Local knowledge

Taxis
Cabs are a dime a dozen in traffic-heavy Beijing and, as long as you make sure the number plate starts with a B and that the meter's running, are a safe and easy way of getting around. Smith tip: get your hotel to write any destination addresses in Chinese, together with any phone numbers of the places you're visiting, so the driver can zip you straight there.

Tipping culture
Tipping is not customary in China, but in Beijing, as with any cosmopolitan hub, mid-high end establishments will be unofficially grateful for a tip of around 10 per cent. Some bars and restaurants, especially those geared to foreigners, may add 10–15 per cent to the final bill. Hotel staff will appreciate – and in some cases, expect – a few hundred yuan as a token.

Siesta and Fiesta
Most banks and government offices wind down at 3pm, but shops open comparatively late, often trading until 9pm. Museums close on Mondays.

Packing tips
You can have excellent quality clothes made very cheaply, so leave plenty of room in your luggage for fine silk dresses and sharp suits. Chinese toilets are often free from such Western luxuries as toilet paper, so it's always useful to have some tissue paper stashed in your bag.

Recommended reads
Anchee Min's The Last Empress tells the tale of the notorious Dowager Cixi, recounting China's ongoing struggle against Westernism and modernisation from a first-person perspective. I Love Dollars by Zhu Wen is a collection of mildly absurdist satirical short stories from a Beijing-based author. Richly inventive and a touch macabre, Ma Jian's The Noodle Maker is a metafictional tale of a state-employed writer describing the novel he longs to write.

Cuisine
Other than the eponymous Peking duck, historically, Beijing’s northern Chinese cuisine has been mostly a spicy bend of choice delicacies swiped from other areas and tweaked to perfection for the imperial court. Unlike their rice-eating Southern counterparts, Beijing-ers wolf down noodles, steamed or fried buns and crisp, filled savoury pancakes. Mongolian hotpot, featuring thin slivers of fatty mutton plunged quickly into a simmering table-top tureen of hot broth, is particularly popular, usually in winter. Other local favourites include zhajiang mian, a garlicky meat sauce served over noodles garnished with shredded vegetables, usually cucumber, and Jiucai bing, a freshly made flatbread stuffed with garlic chives and egg. From Tianjin, Jianbing, a crispy spring-onion and egg pancake, is another favoured street snack. For a quick 'gastroduction' to the sheer variety of Chinese street food, head to Wangfujing Snack Street, where you’ll find anything from tasty grilled kebabs to exotic skewered scorpions.

Currency
The Renminbi (literally ‘people’s currency') is most commonly known as the Yuan (CNY).

Time zone
GMT +8

Dialling codes
Country code for China: +86, for Beijing: 10. Don't bother with either if you're calling within the city.

Do go/don't go
Unless you’re planning to venture into the cooler mountainous regions around Beijing, summer is not the ideal time to visit, as temperatures frequently soar beyond 40ºc. Equally, winter can be harsh, particularly in January and early February. The autumn months from September to early November, are ideal.

Don't go home without

...a stroll around the Forbidden City. Home to dynasty after dynasty of emperors, the gargantuan complex has been the centre of the Chinese universe for centuries, and now contains the largest collection of preserved wooden structures in the world.


Beijing Hotels

£ $

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Beijing


Hotel G

Beijing, China

Style
Boutique-bordello luxury

Setting
Heart of the high-rises

Glamorous, grand, glitzy and gorgeous, it’s easy to see what inspired Hotel G’s name – and its location – in Beijing’s suitably stylish Sanlitun district.


Check availability

The Opposite House

Beijing, China

Style
Gleaming glass glamour

Setting
Sanlitun urban village

A shimmering glass building resembling a vast wooden lattice work, Beijing’s Opposite House is the strikingly designed centrepiece of Sanlitun village, an ultra-modern boutique hotel with three restaurants, two bars, and a lot of style.


Check availability

Red Capital Ranch

Beijing, China

Style
Huirao hunting lodge

Setting
Great Wall, great views

A rustic and rambling collection of 10 stone cottages at the foot of a mountain, Manchurian hunting lodge Red Capital Ranch just outside Beijing offers serene simplicity with breath-stealing views of the Great Wall and its citadels.


Check availability



Getting there

Holidays in Beijing, China

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
About 26km from the city centre, Beijing Capital International Airport has three terminals processing direct international flights from Air China, United, Continental and British Airways, Qantas, and plenty more. It's one of the world's largest (the third terminal alone is bigger than Heathrow), and is due to be supplemented by the city's second airport in the ensuing decade. Prearrange transfers if you can, as although there are a host of taxis available, they'll expect to see the name of your destination written in Chinese before they set off.
Boats
Direct express services run from Hong Kong to Beijing's West Station every other day, and there are weekly services from Moscow via Ulan Bator. If you’re within central Beijing, the metro or ditie (www.bjsubway.com) is a nifty way of escaping the peak-time road traffic.
Automobiles
Within most of central Beijing itself, a combination of taxis and metro rides should fulfil all your urban navigation needs. However, if you’re keen for a trip out of the city, or to explore to the outlying sections of the Great Wall, hire a car from Beijing Limo (www.beijinglimo.com), which has an extensive fleet to should suit most size and budget requirements.

Boutique hotels in Beijing

Holidays in Beijing, China

Beijing Activities

Highlights the best Beijing has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Worth getting out of bed for

Beijing itinerary
More…

Viewpoint
The city’s many skyscrapers aside, for a bird’s eye view of central Beijing, head to Jingshan Park, a 57-acre former imperial garden facing the North Gate area of the Forbidden City. Made from soil that was excavated from the the City’s moat, the 48-metre Jingshan Hill is one of the few lumps in Beijing's landscape and, from the top, offers panoramic views of the entire Forbidden City complex and most of the Beijing skyline.

Arts and culture
Beijing has so many ancient monuments and historic sights to gawp at, after a while the temples and royal courtyard homes all blur into one spectacular history lesson. Before that happens, make a speedy beeline for the Dashanzi Art District (aka '768'). Once a labyrinth of high-ceilinged Bauhaus-style factories, the once-industrial area has been recreated as an artistic hub, with galleries, cafés, boutiques and restaurants lining the streets. 798 Space (www.798space.com) is the highlight, most notably for the Mao-era slogans printed on its walls.

Something for nothing
Famous for its mind-stretching size and infamous as the site of the 1989 massacre, Tiananmen Square was built to contain up to a million people at once, and visiting it is both an awesome and humbling experience – not least for its role in recent history. During the day, it's filled with kite-flyers, pedlars, and trigger-happy tourists, but if you visit at dawn or dusk you can catch the daily flag-raising and lowering ceremonies – one of the last few communist rituals still in practice.

Shopping
Choose from a baffling array of Chinese teas on Maliandao Street in the Xuanwu district (otherwise known as Tea Street), where more than 600 shops sell around 500 different varieties and an unfathomable cache of tea paraphernalia. If you're daunted by the scope of the selection, head straight to the Hong Zhi Teashop (+86 10 6342 4406) and take advantage of its eye-openingly informative staff. At the weekend, Panjiayuan fleamarket is a must-do for trinket-hunting, with a huge selection of kitsch 'maomorabilia', porcelain, jade and wooden ornaments, books, hats, bags, rugs, and more. As with most market shopping in China, offer as far below asking price as you can, and don't expect any 'antiques' to live up to the title. The Baoguo Temple Market in the Xuanwu district is a different story, however – you'll often find unique and authentic items here to add to your collection. Although most international fashion labels have made their way to Beijing, the European price-tag hasn't, and most items will often come in 30 per cent more expensive than in Western boutiques.

Daytripper
Either make the short drive, or hop on a direct bus from the Grand View Garden a few miles to the south of Beijing, where the village of Caiyu marks the centre of Chinese wine industry. With a comparable climate to Bordeaux, the area is home to more than 100 grape varieties and assorted vineyard tours are available for adventurous oenophiles. Tastings are held each evening, and although Chinese wine isn't exactly internationally adored, you may be pleasantly surprised by some of the flavours on offer.

Perfect picnic
Either make the short drive, or hop on a direct bus from the Grand View Garden a few miles to the south of Beijing, where the village of Caiyu marks the centre of Chinese wine industry. With a comparable climate to Bordeaux, the area is home to more than 100 grape varieties and assorted vineyard tours are available for adventurous oenophiles. Tastings are held each evening, and although Chinese wine isn't exactly internationally adored, you may be pleasantly surprised by some of the flavours on offer.

Activities
With Beijing’s Olympian construction efforts come myriad architecturally striking buildings and off-the-wall stadia – all of which merit an appearence in the holiday snaps. Fondly known as the Bird’s Nest, the Olympic stadium designed by Herzog & de Meuron features a gleaming steel lattice exterior designed to resemble, well, a bird's nest. The National Aquatics Centre, 'the Watercube', features 3000 plastic pockets which surround the exterior of the building. Rem Koolhas’s twisted, sloping structure built to be the new headquarters of CCTV (China Central Television), is an optical illusion of a steel megalith which has to be seen to be believed. Follow in the footsteps of diplomats and dignitaries with a visit to Lao She’s Teahouse (www.laosheteahouse.com), Beijing's tea-sipping answer to Moulin Rouge, which hosts nightly variety shows containing snippets of Beijing opera alongside folk singing, acrobatics and xiangsheng crosstalk comedy routines.

And...
Nowhere on Earth does Peking duck better than its culinary mother city, and you'll find the crispy delicacy all over the city. The traditional Peking duck is specially prepared and roasted in a wood-fired oven using wood from fruit trees, which is said to impart a special fragrance to the crisp, lacquered skin.

Diary

January–February The Spring Festival and Chinese New Year empties Beijing like a drain as its inhabitants return to their home villages to spend time with their families.
February Two weeks after the start of Spring Festival, the Lantern Festival, sees children and adults alike walking the streets bearing colourful lanterns of all shapes and sizes.
September–October Held when the moon is supposedly at its fullest and brightest, the Mid-Autumn Festival  sees families and friends gather in the evening to nibble on sweet mooncakes (a round, thick biscuity pastry filled with lotus or red-bean paste and a salted egg yolk centre) and to admire the swollen moon.


Boutique hotels in Beijing

Restaurants and bars in Beijing, China

Beijing
Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Beijing.

Cafés

(+86 (0)10 6586 9507)

The Bookworm

The spiritual home of Beijing’s expat literati, this cool café, library, bookshop, and general temple to wordsmithery offers a regular programme of interesting talks and events, as well as a full dining menu and a tempting wine and whisky list.

Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100000

1F East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing

Comptoirs de France

An authentic French bakery and café that offers some of the best baked goods the city has to offer. Enjoy a quiet afternoon sipping delicious hot chocolate and tucking into the signature chocolate and lemon tarts. The café also offers a variety of sandwiches and delicious freshly-churned gelato, with must-try flavours of lemon and mango.

(+86 (0)10 6461 1525)

(+86 (0)10 6413 0345)

Sparrow’s Café

Run by a Peruvian chef and her Portuguese husband, this cosy WiFi-equipped café is a lovely place to duck into for a leisurely recharge from frenetic Beijing. Specialties include killer hot chocolate paired with crisp and churros, and silky smooth egg tarts, together with an array of sandwiches, panini, cookies and other mouth-watering pastries. Their signature coffee is made from blend of Arabic beans sourced from four countries – Brazil, Indonesia, Peru and Portugal.

Rm.103, Building 7, Unit 7 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District

Restaurants

(+86 (0)10 6581 3939)

Hatsune

A favourite lunch spot among the expat crowd and Beijing cityboys, this urban-Zen-inspired eatery serves up fabulous and innovative Californian-style sushi and rolls. Also on the menu are Japanese favourites such as teppanyaki, tempura and miso cod.

2/F Heqiao Building C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District

(+86 (0)10 8808 8828)

Whampoa Club

Occupying one of the last few remaining siheyuan courtyard houses along Financial Street, one would be hard pressed to find a more lusciously designed restaurant. Specialising in Northern Chinese dishes such as braised pork knuckle, cabbage and spinach rolls flavoured with punchy yellow mustard and wasabi jelly, and Beijing pancakes filled with goose liver and pork. Secret yourself on an intimate draped banquette at the side of the main dining area, then linger for a digestif at the aptly titled Black Bar, replete with glossy, eelskin-upholstered chairs, and pick from a variety of potent Chinese wines and cocktails. Look out for the fabulous birdcage installation as you enter the main dining room.

23A Jinrong Jie, Xidan/Financial Street, Xi Cheng District, Beijing

(+86 (0)10 5169 0328)

Da Dong

Renowned throughout Beijing for the unassailable quality of its Peking Duck, Da Dong delivers a perfectly crisp dish with a virtually fat-free skin. Enjoy free-flowing pancakes and sesame-studded shaobing puffs seals the deal. It’s a popular haunt, so be sure to call ahead, although the restaurant often can’t honour reservations made 6.30pm. However, if your table isn’t ready upon arrival, you can get free drinks at the bar.

22 Dongsi Shi Tiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing

(+86 10 8518 1234)

Made in China

A Beijing classic, Made in China offers some of the best north-eastern dishes in the capital, amid slick, dark lacquered surroundings and a glass-encased open-kitchen. Must-tries include the zhajiang mian (the Chinese equivalent of spaghetti bolognaise), beggar’s chicken, and Peking duck, which you should be sure to preorder (trust us, anything less than a whole bird simply won’t be enough).

1/F Grand Hyatt, 1 Chang An Jie, Dongcheng District

Bars and clubs

(+86 (0)10 6501 9986)

Stone Boat Café

A tranquil tippling spot beside a scenic lake in picturesque Ritan Park that backs up its booze cupboard with a tempting tea selection, this faux Qing dynasty boat bar is run by Newsweek’s China correspondant and runs regular live jazz nights in summer.

Lakeside, Southwest corner of RItan Park, Chaoyang District, Beijing

(+86 (0)10 8400 1554)

Bed Tapas & Bar

The brainchild of Malaysian foodie Cho Chong Gee, Bed Bar & Tapas is a low-key watering hole hidden within a hutong a short walk from the Drum Tower. Inside you’ll find a well-heeled clientele sup mojitos while lounging on traditional Kang-style beds, amid antique furnishings and lots of smart bare concrete.

17 Zhangwang Hutong, Jiu Gulou Dajie, Gulou, Beijing

(+86 (0)10 6561 8833)

Centro

Settle into one of the plush armchairs in this spacious scarlet hotel bar, and celeb-watch the night away to a soundtrack of jazzy tunes from the nightly live band. Open 24 hours a day.

1/F, Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijng



©2010 Mr & Mrs Smith