Local knowledge

Taxis

Taxis – of varying degrees of legitimacy – are easily found in Guatemala, although buses are more commonly used for shuttling around the countryside. Look out for three-wheeled tuk tuks in Guatemala City; their small size makes them adept at zipping around town. Agree a fare beforehand if you can.

Tipping culture

10 per cent is usual in bars and restaurants where no service charge has been added. Taxi drivers won’t expect anything unless they’ve been bag-luggingly helpful. Private drivers, guides and hotel staff will be pleased with a few dollars, depending on their level of service.

Packing tips

Guatemala’s rainforests didn’t grow themselves – there are frequent downpours, so waterproofs are essential kit for jungle trekking. The tropical climate attracts biting insects, so be prepared to fend them off with repellent and coils. Binoculars will help with bird- and monkey-spotting.

Recommended reads

Francisco Goldman’s ambitious first novel The Long Night of the White Chickens combines the depth and thoughtfulness of a travelogue with the energy and pace of a detective thriller. Miguel Ángel Asturias’ magic realist tale The President earned him a Nobel Prize.

Cuisine

Guatemalan dishes tend to blend Mexican and European flavours, producing dishes such as chilaquiles (tortilla filled with meat and accompanied by red and green sauces), chiles rellenos (sweet peppers filled with meat), frijoles (black beans), guacamole, and chicken pepian (chicken in a spicy sesame and pumpkin sauce). On Saturdays, it’s traditional to eat tamales (meat-stuffed corn dough), a far cry from their Mexican equivalent.

Currency

Guatemalan Quetzal (GTQ). The US dollar (around GTQ8) is also legal tender.

Time zone

GMT -6 hours

Dialling codes

Country code for Guatemala: +502.

Do go/don't go

The dry season between November and April is both the balmiest and busiest. Between May and October, the frequent rains can make road travel problematic, but it’s often the best time to secure good value accommodation and avoid the tourist hordes.