For more information and to book please visit www.mrandmrssmith.com or let us arrange your whole trip, by calling +44 (0)20 8987 4312 or from the USA dial 1 866 610 3867.
There’s no better place to practise your Franglish than the city that coined the phrase ‘bonjourallo’ to accommodate greeting Francophiles and Anglophiles alike. While the official battle is between its twin heritages, visitors quickly realise what a multi-cultural foodie haven this city actually is. Dine on authentic Spanish, Portugese, Italian, French, Greek, Vietnamese, Indian, Japanese, Chinese… the international menu goes on and on. You’ll thank your lucky stars and booted feet that the city is notably walkable too – there’s got to be some way to shed the pounds gained in all the local microbreweries, cafes, and restaurants. Although some small areas of Montreal sit on the wrong side of the ‘urban regeneration’ fence, look a little closer and you’ll find a city riddled with history, character, and blithe resistance to the often freezing temperatures.
Pardon our French – Montreal’s Catholic upbringing shows itself in one of the most unlikely aspects of city life: swearing. While the Francophones of Paris may lean towards the scatological when frustrated, Montrealers look heavenward. Some choice expletives include ‘tabarnac’ (tabernacle), ‘calisse’ (chalice) and ‘hostie’ (the host).
…Sampling poutine. This Quebecois delicacy consists of French fries and cheese curds topped with generous lashings of gravy. It’s best enjoyed as a late-night post-bar snack, but you can guarantee La Banquise (www.restolabanquise.com), which serves more than 25 varieties of the dish, will be open no matter what time the craving hits.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Montreal
Beaux Arts grandeur meets modern minimalism at Montreal’s landmark Hotel St Paul– stylish and simple, and situated in the city’s hippest old-town quarter to boot.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
January–February For three weekends, Île Sainte-Hélène in the middle of the St Lawrence river becomes a winter wonderland, for the Fête des Neiges (www.fetedesneiges.com) with ice-skating paths, tube slides (compacted snow slides) and an assortment of snow-based events. February–March The Montreal High Lights Festival (www.montrealhighlights.com) is a city-wide celebration of gastronomy, cinema, art and general partying that lasts over a week. April–May Five days of talks, readings and general bookish chit-chat mark the Blue Metropolis Montreal International Literary Festival (www.bluemetropolis.org). May The Montreal Outdoor Festival (www.espaces.qc.ca/plein_air) in Parc Jean-Drapeau offers the opportunity to try out water sports and other outdoorsy activities. June The Montreal Grand Prix is the highlight of the city’s sporting calendar. June–July The Montreal International Jazz Festival (www.montrealjazzfest.com) sees hundreds of musicians flock to the city for a fortnight’s jazz extravaganza. July The Just for Laughs Festival (www.hahaha.com) is one of the biggest events on the global comedy circuit. August–September The World Film Festival (www.ffm-montreal.org) fills 10 days with cinematic celebration.
The perfect spot both for breakfast and to pick up a little gourmet picnic to savour in Parc Montreal, this café-restaurant also boasts a tartare bar – you can choose from an assortment of meats and fish, then specify the preparation method (Asian, Thai, Italian or French) before it’s made in front of you.
27 Rue Prince-Arthur Ouest, Montreal H2X 1S4
Founded purely to prevent a building being knocked down by developers, this alternative café has (almost inadvertently) become one of the most celebrated in town. The excellent coffee is produced in the roasting house next door (and available to buy by the bag). There’s a wide-ranging menu of inventive sandwiches too – try the triple-deckers. Open until midnight.
3990 Rue St-Urbain, Montreal H2W 1T7
Being right beside the market means that the food at this laid-back café-restaurant is as fresh as it gets. Its three staff act as chefs and waiters.
60 Rue Jean-Talon Est, Montreal
Montreal’s famed Hebrew deli has been serving its deliciously spiced smoked meat on the same spot for 75 years, and still the punters are queuing out the door. Sandwiches and platters come in ‘lean’, ‘medium’, or ‘fatty’ – throwback to a quainter, size-zero-free era.
3895 St Laurent Boulevard, Montreal H2W 1X9
Book a table as far ahead as you can at this extremely popular eaterie, which is invariably packed with a carnivorous clientele tucking into one of the numerous foie gras dishes, or sampling some excellent cuts of local meat – try the mind-boggling 'Duck in a Can'.
536 Rue Duluth Est, Montreal H2L 1A9
Sticking to a simple classic French bistro menu has reaped dividends for this smart little eaterie; its steak-frites is invariably excellent.
2022 Rue Peel, Montreal H3A 2W5
Amazing sushi to be had at this Mile End establishment – Montreal's most accomplished Japanese kitchen. It’s close to Baldwin Barmacie, so you can always head there for post-prandial cocktails.
156 Avenue Laurier Ouest, Montreal H2T 2N7
In-the-know Montrealers can regularly be found brunching at this relaxed rustic bistro on Saturdays and Sundays. As well as its hearty snacks and meals, it’s built up a reputation for its tasty microbrews, made on the premises.
9 Rue Duluth Est, Montreal H2W 1G7
When you get tired of all those French bistros, head here for Spanish culinary favourites such as tapas and paella. Every Thursday sees flamenco dancers take to the stage while you dine.
4848 Boulevard St-Laurent, Montreal H2T 1R6
Montreal’s hippest cocktail joint was once a pharmacy and its gifted mixologists continue the theme today – spirits and their accompanying mixers are served in separate medicine bottles, so you can modify the strength of your ‘prescription’ as you like. Open until 3am.
15 Avenue Laurier Ouest, Montreal H2T 2N6
A quirky hotspot with a great vibe – eerie ostrich heads peer down at you from the walls, and in the evening indie DJs take over from the jazz and classical performers of the daytime.
354 Avenue du Mont-Royal Est, Montreal
A very trendy little place that’s as satisfying for a coffee in the afternoon as it is for sipping evening cocktails with fashionable young locals catching up-and-coming DJs.
440 Boulevard St Laurent, Montreal H2W 1Y8
A long-standing favourite of the Montreal night scene, thanks to a combination of great DJs, an open-air terrace and a fabulous martinis.
3709 Boulevard St Laurent, Montreal H2X 2V7
A casual microbrewery-pub that produces a wide range of excellent ales, inspired by Montreal’s Catholic heritage – why not try a pint of Corpus Christi, Sunday Mass or Mortal Sin?
29 Avenue Laurier Ouest, Montreal H2T 2N2
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
Member offer