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Home to bustling cities – Salvador de Bahia, Ilhéus, Camacari – with a distinctly African vibe, stylish seaside resorts such as Trancoso and Arembepe, and a gorgeous forested interior, it offers everything a visitor to South America could possibly require. And more. If you want to party, the state is hedonism central. Home to capoeira, that leg-spinning, body-whirling dance-cum-martial art, Bahia sparks into life around Carnival time in February. Don’t miss it.
If you go down to the woods – well, the Bahia Coastal Forests – you’re sure of a big surprise. It’s thought that this is the only place on earth in which you can see endangered species such as the maned three-toed sloth and the golden-headed lion tamarin.
Trying your hand (and feet) at Capoeira, the energetic, body-throwing dance-cum-martial art that has spread from Bahia to countries all over the world. Take a couple of classes with Mestre Dinho (+55 (0)71 321 3366) at his dance school on Ladeira de Santana, just five minutes from the trendy Pelourinho quarter.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Bahia
Stretching out to sea on a sandy South Bahia peninsula, the thatched village-style resort of Kiaroa Eco Luxury Resort is fronted by powder-soft beach and encircled by palm trees and mangroves.
The only boutique hotel in the historic main square of Trancoso, Bahia, Uxua Casa Hotel has become the stay of choice in this beautiful seaside village. Its owners have got the balance between luxury and laid-back style just right.
Just moments from the heart of trendy Trancoso – Bahia’s hip and hippy hideaway village – Etnia Pousada is a rustic cluster of eight woodland bungalows showcasing globally inspired design and stylish simplicity.
Restful and remote on the white-sand shores of South Bahia, the terracotta-toned Brazilian farm of Fazenda São Francisco combines boutique-hotel comfort with a laid-back beach-house atmosphere.
Cut off from the rest of the Bahia coast by a long lagoon, Hotel Fazenda da Lagoa is a former farm turned honeymoon-tranquil jungle resort, with seven miles of untouched beach to play on.
It’d be hard to find a slice of paradise further off the beaten path than the eco-friendly beach resort of Tauana Hotel, with luxe thatched huts just steps from the sea.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
January Catholicism and Candomblé merge in the festival of Lavagem do Bonfim, which sees a procession, accompanied by constant drumming, wind its way through the streets of Salvador. February Bahia goes crazy for Carnival, as thousands of hip-swaying, booty-shaking Brazilians hit the streets for a maelstrom of music and colour. May Santo Amaro is the venue for Bembé do Mercado festivities, which commemorate the abolition of slavery. December Bahia’s streets and beaches fill with firework-gazing revellers for the new year Reveillon celebrations.
This legendary Brazilian barbecue joint offers Ilhéus’s finest meat spread. Every type of animal flesh imaginable is thrown on the grill, and you eat until you can take no more. There’s a salad buffet, too – not that you’ll want to bother with that.
Avenida Lomanto Junior 223, Pontal
Situated in a second-floor dining room, this charming Salvador restaurant is great for seafood. Try the wonderful lobster moqueca or the stuffed crab.
Rua José Castro Rabelo, Salvador
The in-house restaurant for Trancoso’s Hotel da Praça, Japaiano is where ex-Nobu chef Felipe Bronze serves up Japanese-Bahian fusion dishes such as moqueca sushi and shrimp tempura.
Praça São João, Quadrado, Trancoso
You’ll find Brazil’s best empadas (salty pasties stuffed with shrimp, crab or dried meat) in this restaurant on the beach road, around 15 miles outside Ilhéus. Come, too, for the laid-back atmosphere and to eat in a garden bursting with brightly coloured flowers.
Rodovia Ilhéus–Itacaré
This beachside restaurant near Ilhéus offers wonderful ocean views from its palm-fringed terrace, as well as some great seafood-dominated pizzas.
Praia do Cururupe, Ilhéus Olivença
A former brothel in the centre of Ilhéus, the Bataclan is a stylish relic from the time of the booming cocoa industry. It’s a great place for a drink or a spot of Afro-Brazilian cuisine. Closed on Sundays.
Avenida 2 de Julho, Ilhéus
This Salvador restaurant serves up excellent meat dishes, as well as some delicious seafood options.
Rua Gregorio de Matos, Salvador
The place to go for traditional Bahian cuisine in Salvador, Yemanja offers plenty of spicy stews (the moquecas are a must-order), as well as local specialities such as freshwater pitu prawns
Avenida Otávio Mangabeira, Salvador
An upmarket bar/restaurant in Salvador, Pereira has become a bit of a celebrity magnet. Come here for excellent tapas and people-watching.
Avenida 7 de Setembro, Salvador
Do as the Ilhéus locals do and cram round the tables outside this typical Brazilian bar for cold beers in the warm sun. There’s also an outdoor grill if you get hungry.
Rua General Camara, Ilhéus
Set in the house occupied by Gabriela in the famous Jorge Amado novel, Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon, this is where to come for drinks, mezze and live music in Ilhéus.
Praça Dom Eduardo 190, Ilhéus
This Moroccan-themed bar/restaurant by the sea in Trancoso is a great spot for oceanside drinking.
Rua do Telégrafo 338, Trancoso
If you fancy a spot of open-air dancing, or nodding to live music with a mojito in your hand, then this popular club in the fashionable resort of Trancoso is for you.
Praça São João 172, Trancoso
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