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Cradled by the snow-hatted Himalayas between India and Tibet, the remote and, until recently, almost inaccessible Kingdom of Bhutan has fiercely guarded its secrets from the rest of the world, maintaining limited flights and hefty tourist fees in order to preserve its ancient Buddhist cultural traditions. The advantage to those lucky enough to set foot on its mountain soil is the lack of queues, crowds, or any of the other tourist trappings that have tainted its neighbours – when it comes to getting away from the tribulations of the modern world, there’s no better destination. Unspoilt forests clamber up the plunging valleys, monasteries, temples and fortresses perch precariously over mountain passes, and, throughout the year, colourful masked dance festivals fill the streets of the capital, Thimphu.
Until recently, Bhutanese citizens were legally obliged to don national dress when appearing outdoors. Over the last few years, the law has been relaxed so that national costume is only required at official functions or when performing certain jobs. Despite laxer laws, many people still choose to wear their kira (for women) and gho (for men) every day. The kira is a large piece of woven cloth wrapped around the body and over a blouse, usually fashioned with a brooch at the shoulders. A gho is a long, kimono-like robe that reaches below the knee.
Watching a practice session at the Chamlinithang Archery Ground in Thinmphu, held most mornings. Archery is Bhutan’s characteristically mediaeval national sport, and you can see the country’s best bowmen nailing targets around 145 metres away, while the women ‘cheerlead’ from the side.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Bhutan
The first boutique hotel to reach the unspoiled kingdom of Bhutan, Amankora offers a once-in-a-lifetime journey around five luxurious lodges, each with its own unforgettable views.
Blending the clean-lined cool of a modern hillside lodge with Asian-inspired carvings and artwork, Uma Paro is a soul-soothing Bhutan boutique hotel with postcard-beating Himalayan panoramas.
The heart of the Himalayas isn't easy to get to – we'll show you the way.
Bhutan’s red-letter days are closely associated with the Buddhist lunar calendar and other events tend to happen on dates calculated as auspicious by the country’s astrologers. Here’s an approximate breakdown:
February/March The Punakha Dromche celebrates the defeat of Tibetan armies in the 17th Century. Mach/April The Paro tsechu is the nation’s largest and most impressive, featuring dramatic masked dances performed by trained monks. Local townspeople set up the Bhutanese equivalent of a county fair. September/October Tsechus in Thimphu, Bumthang and Tangbi. Thimphu tsechu is held in the courtyard of the capital building, where the offices of the king and other government officials are housed. Bumthang’s festival is perhaps the most authentic, as few tourists have set out to see it.
A famed Thimphu landmark and a source of good coffee, this ever-popular hangout for locals and expats is great for stocking up on snacks.
Chorten Lam, Thimphu
Another favourite, and one of the few spots in the city that doesn’t serve instant coffee, this cute little café is perfect for a quick sandwich and cake (cheese- or chocolate are the top choices). When the sun has his hat on, sit in the pretty courtyard and enjoy a leisurely cuppa.
Chorten Lam, Thimphu
Despite the modest decor, this renowned restaurant is the best place in Thimphu to sample authentic Bhutanese cuisine – the royal family have been spotted dining here. Order the emadatse (chillis and yak cheese), the country’s national dish.
Wogzin Lam, Thimphu
If the ubiquitous yak cheese dishes are getting to you, head to this excellent hotel restaurant, which serves Western classics, local Bhutanese fare, Indian and Chinese. The chef hails from Calcutta so the Indian dishes have a deservedly tasty reputation.
Wogzin Lam, Thimphu
A small but lively spot in the centre of town, this cosy eatery serves a variety of international cuisine, plus enticing bar snacks such as samosas and momos. The barbecue ribs are excellent and the fries are perhaps the best in town.
Gatoen Lam, Thimphu
Soft lighting mingles with wood-clad walls to create a very sexy dining experience at this wallet-stretchingly classy establishment – this is as close to the Ivy as Bhutan gets. There’s a choice of two set menus a day, usually Thai or Bhutanese.
Thimphu
A warm round space encased in glass, Uma Paro hotel’s unparalleled eatery presents fusion dishes that incorporate several local ingredients and flavours, as well as a few Western and Asian classics. The two expat chefs (an Aussie and a kiwi), with help from an in-house Indian chef, whip up a wide-ranging, drool-inducing menu daily. Nightly, there are set Bhutanese and Indian menus on offer.
Paro
Thimphu’s expats flock to this little bar with a big personality for the after-work Friday-evening drink ritual.
Gatoen Lam, Thimphu
Wednesday nights are the busiest at this diminutive drinking den in Jojo’s Shopping Complex. A mixed crowd of locals and expats crowd in after 9pm, in order to work their way through the respectable wine list.
Jojo’s Building, Thimphu
Ever since Cameron Diaz shook her booty at this rambunctious club beside Om Bar, Space 34 has become a landmark. Indian DJs blast techno, rap and hip hop at a crowd of young rug-cutters. Even the country’s youthful king has been known to throw shapes here.
Jojo’s Building, Thimphu
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