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For all the ‘heart of the EU’ brouhaha, the capital of Flanders, Belgium, and Europe is surprisingly small. Home to a relatively teeny 1.3 million people – less than half of them Belgian – it’s nevertheless a thriving metropolis, where French and Flemish culture meet, greet, and try to sit down to a long lunch together without arguing. Despite the bilingual identity crisis (trilingual if you count the ubiquitous English-speakers), Brussels rewards the wanderer – there’s something interesting down every winding alley or cul-de-sac, and the magnificent (and magnificently busy) mediaeval Grand Place is as impressive as any town square in Prague, Warsaw or Siena. Wide boulevards link landmark to landmark with a Parisian swagger, and, as with Berlin, you need to deviate from the tourist trail to get to know Brussels on its own cosmopolitan terms.
It’s probably a little unfair to say that the complexities of Belgian humour can be symbolised by an underwhelming statue of a urinating boy, but the Manneken Pis (‘little man pee’) in rue de l’Etuve has become the semi-official symbol of the city, even inspiring a group of local fans to create a wardrobe of thousands of costumes, changed with ceremonious regularity.
…tasting chocolate. The streets of Brussels are dotted with chocalatiers and only the most savoury-toothed cocoa-hater could make it through the stay without sampling some of the sweet ticky stuff. Try Pierre Marcolini’s ( on Rue des Minimes (+ 32 (0)2 514 1206), which launches its confectionary in seasonal ‘collections’ and has free tastings on offer upstairs. Chocolate not your thing? Sample the speculoos (spicy shortbread biscuits) at Dandoy (+33 (0)2 511 0326) on rue au Beurre – they’ve been practising the recipe for nearly 200 years.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Brussels
Smart monochrome decor, sexy portrait photography and Sixties-pattern furnishings lend a witty retro vibe to Be Manos, the smartest, buzziest boutique hotel in the Belgian capital.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
April One of Europe’s largest art fairs, Art Brussels (www.artexis.com/artbrussels) brings hundred of galleries under one roof, and attracts thousands of collectors and connoisseurs from around the globe, May Three days of near-non stop live music courtesy of the Jazz Marathon, which fills bars, cafés and restaurants with musicians, and is completely free to listen to. August Every even-numbered year sees a carpet of flowers descend on the Grand Place. August–September Beginning with a celebration of St Arnold – patron saint of brewers – in the Magdalena Church, the Beer Weekend (www.weekenddelabiere.be) brings beers and beer-fans to the Grand Place (by the barrel- and bus-load, respectively) for three days of selling and sampling. September Design September (www.designseptember.be), a citywide festival of creative industry fills venues and galleries with stylish exhibits.
A great spot for a snack and cool beer in the late evening sun. Chill-out Djs take to the decks most evenings.
18 Place Flagey, Brussels, 1050 BXL, Belgium
A trend, lively spot to while away the day surrounded by the city’s artistic in-crowd. Live music most nights.
209 Rue Antoine Dansaert, Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
Antoine Pinto’s Brussels brasserie institution is set in an elegant 18th-century building and serves an array of proudly Belgian dishes, Belgian beers and Belgian wines. There’s a champagne and oyster bar too.
32 Rue Fossé aux Loups, Brussels, 1000 BXL Belgium
Quite simply one of the finest seafood restaurants in the city, the Radisson hotel’s fine-dining room might need to rethink its interiors, but it does serve flawless fish.
47 Rue du Fossé aux Loups, Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
This restaurant and beer hall is as reliable today as it was when frequented by the likes of Hemingway, Satre, Rodin, and Zola came to tuck into its seafood platters at the turn of the 19th century. It also boasts two world records, having made the largest sauerkraut ever served, together with the biggest baked Alaska.
259 Avenue Churchill, Brussels, 1180 BXL, Belgium
A classic cosmopolitan brasserie with smart, slick looks and a vegetarian-friendly French seasonal menu, with some Flemish dishes too.
33 Place du Grand Sablon, Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
A fashionable, low-key but lovable Moroccan restaurant, featuring some excellent Lebanese dishes.
1 Square Biarritz, Brussels, 1050 BXL, Belgium
Something of a jack of all trades in the Brussels night scene, this super-cool nightspot manages to be a velvet-sofa’d wine bar, a grill restaurant, a tapas bar and one of the city’s premier clubs at the same time, attracting a young, professional clientele.
1 Rue St Bernard, Brussels,1060 BXL, Belgium
An ever-lively, split-level watering hole in the Brussels bar-hopper’s area of choice, the Place de St Gery, this popular stop-off stays open beyond the witching hours and serenades the clientele with Latin house tunes.
2–6 Rue du Pont de la Carpe , Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
Despite the fact it fits not one but two gimmicks into one space (drinks are priced on a stock-market system of supply and demand, and the bar’s rooms are themed around the layout of an urban apartment), this popular night spot is actually worth a visit. Settle into the ‘bedroom’ with a cocktail with a after-work crowd.
12 Rue de la Reinette, Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
Nothing to do with the Swayze and everything to do with Belgian electro-house, this well-established Saturday club night opens its doors at 11.59pm and doesn’t cool down till 6am. NB The more glam you put into your garb, the quicker you’ll get through the door.
38 Chaussée de Louvain, Brussels, 1030 BXL, Belgium
Once a Capuchin convent, now a restaurant and club, Le Bazaar has been draped and chandeliered into gorgeousness, with a French-Moroccan menu on offer upstairs and a cavernous dance floor downstairs.
63 Rue des Capucins, Brussels, 1000 BXL, Belgium
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith
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