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While the city’s proud heritage is on permanent display, thanks to stately 16th-century guildhouses, noble churches and an enviable collection of fleshy masterpieces by home-grown artistic genius Rubens, the modern illustrations of Antwerp’s talents seem less well known. In recent decades, Antwerp’s prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Art has produced a new generation of designers that have helped transform the city into one of the most exciting in Europe – a cutting-edge fashion centre to match the continent’s best. The streets to the south of the Gothic cathedral are lined with boutiques and showrooms to satisfy even the most demanding fashionista. Nor are the city’s creative skills limited to cloth cutting; the Belgian love of gastronomy – paired with an almost monastic dedication to fine beers – is legendary. With its slinky cocktail lounges, chic restaurants and irresistible moules and frites, Antwerp offers an experience of Rubenesque sensuality.
Antwerp has been the centre of the world’s diamond trade for centuries. The diamond district around Rijfstraat isn’t really the place to buy, but it’s great to wander the streets and feel the tension in the air; there are armed guards in the streets protecting some 1,500 dealers and a trade worth more than £15 billion a year. Visit the Diamantmuseum on Koningin Astridplein, just north of the Central Station, before browsing the jewellery shops.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Antwerp
A charming and centrally located boutique hotel in Antwerp, Hotel Julien brings modern styling to a handsome pair of renovated 16th-century merchants' houses. Crisp starched linen contrasts with rich oak panelling and jugs of flowers; the light is dazzling, the atmosphere magical and the city is right on your doorstep.
We give you the inside track on how to get to Antwerp and how to get around this on-the-pulse city
If you like to enjoy your Poilane toast surrounded by Antwerp’s high-end fashions, try this great little place on Nationalestraat.
Nationalestraat 33, 2000 Antwerp
In the country that gave us chips, the best frites of your life are here at this street stall on the corner of Hoogstraat and Oude Koornmarkt.
Hoogstraat 1, 2000 Antwerp
One of the many cafés and bars around Grote Markt that are ideal for a people-watching pit stop, this place is justifiably popular, especially in the evening, with Belgian beer aficionados.
Grote Markt 3, 2000 Antwerp
This appropriately named eaterie on Kammenstraat is ideal for a liquid lunch – consisting of hearty and satisfying soups, of course.
Kammenstraat 89, 2000 Antwerp
At this 19th-century theatre on Komedieplaats, the foyer café has a wonderfully refined atmosphere thanks to its lovingly restored, rather grand interiors, and even better apple strudel. Great for a delicious brunch in truly remarkable surroundings.
Komedieplaats 18, 2000 Antwerp
This bright new design-den has gorgeous wood-beamed ceilings and two inviting patio areas to complement its mightily appealing drinks list. Great vibes, great cocktails and great music.
Lijnwaadmarkt 9 2000 Antwerp
Distressed-chic brasserie in a hotel that used to put up seafaring merchants, with wooden crates and to-die-for food from chef/owner Carlo Didden – try fillet of hare with wild mushroom ravioli and hot truffle-broth shot. It won’t break the bank, either.
Stoofstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp
Does what it says on the tin, only not in the way you might expect: the astonishing Off Piste tasting menu and Formula 1 wine list (‘the world’s biggest wines at a special low fare’) keep the foodies and fashion insiders coming back for more of chef Kasper Kurdahl’s imaginative offerings. In summer, the rosemary-clad terrace is a lovely place to be. Top reason to love this place? Order your choice of wines and the chef will whip up a Surprise Menu to match them.
Kloosterstraat 13, 2000 Antwerp
The city’s style set favours this ultra-hip restaurant on Volkstraat, which serves light French-fusion dishes.
Volkstraat 58, 2000 Antwerp
This tiny split-level restaurant on Haarstraat is a Michelin-starred seafood restaurant that showcases the creative talents of chef Didier Garnich; there’s no menu – everything is sourced in the market that day and prepared to perfection. Booking essential.
Haarstraat 9, 2000 Antwerp
Another of the city’s Michelin-starred options, this former teahouse on Grote Hondstraat has delicious and reasonably priced tasting menus served in elegant art-nouveau surroundings.
Grote Hondstraat 2, 2018 Antwerp
Well hidden in a tiny street off Hoogstraat on Haarstraat, this popular place is worth tracking down for its fresh home-made pasta; a reservation is essential. You can also wait for your table at the chic wine bar run by the same family just across the street.
Haarstraat 3, 2000 Antwerp
Try this restaurant on Kloosterstraat for a lunch break during a Sunday afternoon of antiques hunting.
Kloosterstraat 83, 2000 Antwerp
If we lived in Antwerp, this would become our favourite down-home old-school Italian joint. Run by a family from Emiglia-Romagna, the pasta and lasagne are to die for.
Kammenstraat 71, 2000 Antwerp
Stylish bar and restautant with French-accented International Fusion dishes just opposite the Royal Museum of Fine Arts set in an imposing building that also houses Ann Demeulemeester's flagship store.
Leopold de Waelplaats 10, 2000 Antwerp
If you want to try traditional jenerver (a type of Belgian gin) then this well-known bar – a favourite city-centre haunt – on Reynderstraat has several hundred varieties to choose from; its next-door shop sells an even bigger selection of full-size and miniature bottles, and the restaurant is good as well.
Reyndersstraat 25, 2000 Antwerp
Towards the regenerated Bonaparte docks area, Lux is a beacon of sophisticated Mediterranean-style food, with an equally sleek lounge bar.
Adriaan Brouwerstraat 13, St Aldegondiskaai 20–22, 2000 Antwerp
Near Vlaamse Kaai, this refined cocktail bar is run by Manuel Wouters; Manuel used to work on the QEII and takes considerable care to customise drinks for his clients, as well as mix up the finest classics from his impressive collection of spirits, whiskeys and wines; there’s a humidor, too, for cigar aficionados.
Gillisplaats 8, 2000 Antwerp
Another hip bar, with a great outdoor area overlooking the fine arts museum on Leopold De Waelplaats. Fantastic caipiriñas.
Graaf van Egmontstraat 57, 2000 Antwerp
In the docks area, which is undergoing a style overhaul – as is typical of wharves in many cities – this hot new venue does dining, drinks, dancing and DJs with consummate panache.
Luikstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp
Another new addition to Antwerp’s dockside eat-drink-groove-lounge scene, this time with ice-cream coloured banquettes, metallic orbs and an Oriental twist. Try Vietnamese spring rolls or teppanyaki dishes washed down with aromatic teas, healthy tisanes, a glass of champagne or hot sake.
Luikstraat 6, 2000 Antwerp
Completing Antwerp’s dockside nightspot triumvirate, De Kaai is a hip hangar hangout and a one-stop-shop for nights out. The restaurant serves euro-gastropub fare and the club hosts salsa and dance DJs.
Hangar 26/1, Rijnkaai 96, 2000 Antwerp
There’s a homely gastro-pub feel to this laid-back local. It’s easily walkable from the Hotel Julien and close to all the best shopping streets.
Kleine Markt 1–3, 2000 Antwerp
If you know your Lambic from your Trappist, get yourself to this beer café in the Latin Quarter – it’s not exactly a designer style bar (beer paraphernalia and a pub cat are the only decorative concessions) but it does serve more than 500 rare brews, including what are reputed to be the strongest in the world. Some of the vintage beers are older than you are. Closed on Sundays.
Vleminckveld 32–34, 2000 Antwerp
Currently one of the hottest club bars in Antwerp and perfect for a quick cocktail before you hit neighbouring Velvet Lounge; Thursday nights are particularly popular here.
Luikstraat 7, 2000 Antwerp
©2009 Mr & Mrs Smith