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But this is a city that’s about a lot more than geography. Melbourne is the meeting point for several cultures, and if you venture away from the wide tree-lined boulevards, you’ll discover what makes this city unique. You can spend whole days wandering its extensive network of historic arcades and laneways, which brim with restaurants, cafés, funky bars, coffee shops, galleries and fashion outlets. Many places have little or no signage, and, generally, if it’s hard to find, it’s probably very cool.
Trams were introduced to Melbourne in 1885 and the city now has the largest network in the world. It’s the only place where motor vehicles may be required to perform a ‘hook turn’ – a manoeuvre designed to give trams priority. The trams contribute to the city’s distinctive character and are held in great affection by the people of Melbourne.
… Seeing an AFL (Aussie Rules) or cricket match at the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground) in East Melbourne. Regarded as one of the great sporting stadiums of the world, it can hold 90,000 sports-mad Melbournians, and any match guarantees a great atmosphere – even if you don’t know the rules.
Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and romantic boutique hotels in Melbourne
Chic, seductive and sophisticated, South Yarra's Lyall Hotel and Spa is where Carrie from Sex and the City would stay in Melbourne if she were in town.
A mansion house in chic South Yarra, Melbourne boutique hotel The Bloomfield offers affordable glamour, with fashionably attired bedrooms, a rooftop pool and chauffeur-driven Rolls-Royces on tap.
The Prince, in the edgy and bohemian St Kilda district of Melbourne, simply oozes cool from the moment that your cab pulls up outside its art deco façade.
A grand Victorian terrace with an imposing Italianate façade, Villa Donati in Melbourne has to be one of Australia’s most decadent stays. Filled with beautiful furniture, artwork and decorative items collected by the owners over many years of travelling, it’s clearly a labour of love.
Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.
January The year starts with a bang – well, more the thump of tennis balls from the rackets of Federer, Nadal et al – at the Australian Open in Melbourne Park. February The St Kilda Festival includes a free street party with DJs and bands on the foreshore – expect a genuine carnival atmosphere. March The Melbourne Food & Wine Festival sees gourmet events taking place throughout the city, while the Australian Grand Prix brings Formula 1 to this corner of Victoria. July The Melbourne International Film Festival is a great chance to catch all the films that Australia’s chattering classes will be talking about for the rest of the year. September Melbourne Spring Fashion Week, which takes place in the first week of the month, is a buzzing showcase for the city’s top designers and boutiques.
If you’re shopping on Chapel Street, you’ll need to refuel at ‘Pound’, where the coffee is fortifying and the toasted sandwiches set you up for the next fashion quest.
Shop 5, 566 Chapel Street (enter from Oxford Street), South Yarra, Melbourne, Victoria 3141
Pick up a magazine and a perch at a communal table at this arty cafe, where a pot of tea and a glass of wine are equally appropriate. The light meals are good, too, but if you’re here for weekday lunch, head to mezzanine-level Journal Canteen for authentic Italian food.
253 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
From early morning to well after midnight, this long-established restaurant is a safe choice for a superb breakfast, a brasserie lunch or an indulgent dinner. The weekend brunch is a Melbourne classic.
161 Spring Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Melbournians love their coffee and there certainly is no shortage of places to get a good one, but this, the first-ever espresso bar to open in Melbourne, is still one of the best.
66 Bourke Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Down the grungy end of Chapel Street, Orange is always busy for brunch, but it’s also good for casual meals later in the day. Catch the vibe at streetside tables or retreat to the shady courtyard.
124 Chapel Street, Windsor, Melbourne, Victoria 3181
This intimate Fitzroy institution with an alternative vibe is the ideal place for breakfast (it also serves mouth-watering pasta later iin the day).
303 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Do as the locals do and duck off Brunswick Street to find this bluestone breakfast hotspot. Classic breakfasts and light lunches are impeccable with a creative twist, while outdoor tables are ideal for brunching in the sun on lazy weekends.
359 Napier Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Even real coffee snobs swear by a daily fix at Wall. In fine weather, join local moochers, kids and dogs at pavement perches. Otherwise, head inside for toasted pide or hearty soup at a dinky table.
280 Carlisle Street, Balaclava, Melbourne, Victoria 3183
Whether it’s breakfast at the communal table, mid-afternoon munchies in a booth or a late-night snack at the bar, Cavallero does modern Mediterranean food with casual style. Interiors are poised yet pared down to match, with a jaunty stag's head on the wall.
300 Smith Street, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
This lovely café, in Melbourne’s Little Italy, offers a mouthwatering array of cakes to have with your coffee. You can dine out on the pavement, too.
194–204 Faraday Street, Carlton, Melbourne, Victoria 3053
Eat – and caffeinate – with the locals at this cute, lo-fi ‘Social Club’ with a small menu of simple tastes, from avocado on toast to blueberry bagels. If it’s not coffee time, think about tea: the team here takes its brews seriously.
180 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
The baked eggs are beautiful and the coffee is excellent at this sophisticated alternative to Brunswick Street's boltholes, which has a romantic old-fashioned European feel and tables outside on the pavement for sunnier days. Beyond breakfast, think modern European bistro fare.
231 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Before laneway cafes were all the rage, Degraves was tucked away in this cobbled alley pumping out espressos. It’s still the business, whether you’re in for poached eggs at daybreak or tapas for early dinner.
23 Degraves Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Chef Andrew McConnell’s food is vibrant, exciting and thrillingly tasty, expressing all that’s great about Melbourne dining. Pop in for drinks and snacks in the bar to tap into Melbourne’s foodie buzz at his latest Gertrude Street venue.
55-57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Casual and friendly with a market-driven philosophy, The Commoner is great for a nurturing weekend brunch and creative pan-European dinners. Book in for Sunday evening’s ‘feed me’ feasts.
122 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Open all day for inspired food and drinks in a casual bar setting. The food is careful but relaxed, whether you’re eating a smashing breakfast, the best oysters in Australia or succulent lamb shoulder. The restaurant doesn’t take bookings so be prepared to drink on your feet while you wait for a perch.
45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Come to this noisy, bustling restaurant for some of Melbourne’s best thin-crust pizza with elegantly restrained toppings, matched with food-friendly wines from near and far. The roast of the day is good cold-weather fuel.
224 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
A young Australian couple, Jess and Ness Gerner, serve some of Melbourne’s best and most authentic southern Spanish tapas in this thrumming bolthole. Try the grilled prawns and the pork ribs cooked in sherry.
197 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
The recipe for fun here is Thai food in a converted warehouse at communal tables. The restaurant doesn’t take bookings but waiting was never so pleasant as in Longrain’s bar, where delicious betel leaf parcels and fabulous Ping Pong cocktails make it dangerously easy to settle in.
44 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Asian street snacks are the inspiration for the boisterous and spicy food here, served in a glam dining room. Don’t miss the silken tofu with XO dressing and the whole baby snapper. The upstairs bar serves great snacks too.
27-29 Crossley Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
This huge warehouse venue is part beer hall and part Thai diner, where the trappings are retro but the food is feisty and fresh. Fantastic salads and noodle dishes work as meals-for-one or shareable feasts. Head upstairs to The Toff in Town for live music and Euro snacks in railway carriage-style booths.
1st floor, 252 Swanston Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Most people come to Rockpool for the excellent steaks, which are aged on the premises, or the Wagyu beef burger (available at the bar), but the grilled fish is terrific too, as are retro sides like the mac and cheese. One of the city’s best wine lists.
Crown Complex, Southbank, Melbourne, Victoria 3006
Come for French food with finesse in a grown-up restaurant that works for business and elegant pleasure. The terrine is always good, and platters to share include a wonderful roasted rib eye and a whole chicken.
Crown Complex, Southbank, Melbourne, Victoria 3006
It’s worth heading to the northern suburbs to try the modern Middle Eastern food at Rumi. Chef Joseph Abboud honours the dishes of his Lebanese heritage while presenting everything with delicate modern flair.
116 Lygon Street, Brunswick East, Melbourne, Victoria 3057
Feast like a sultan on Turkish-inspired bar food at this no-bookings buzz restaurant. Most seats are at shared tables or the bar making this a good place to enjoy local flavour as well as the flavours of lamb cutlets, eggplant-wrapped prawns and the like.
102 Smith Street, Collingwood, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
The signature restaurant at this stand-alone ‘pub’ has great Melbourne views. The food is creative and contemporary with an emphasis on light Asian flavours; there’s also a focus on sushi and sashimi. Upstairs, Transit cocktail lounge is clubby and cosy.
Transport Hotel, Federation Square, Corner Swanston and Flinders Streets, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
For a special night out, get on your glad rags and head to Vue de Monde for a gastronomic degustation. Its contemporary French fare is the talk of the town. For a taste of Vue without the palaver, try the adjacent Bistro Vue for high -classic French and Cafe Vue for the classiest lunchbox in town.
430 Little Collins Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Offering great food and a very cool vibe, MoVida is one of the city’s destination restaurants. Booking is essential, but if you can’t get in, you could always try the adjacent Movida Next Door for a more casual tapas affair.
1 Hosier Lane, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
A cool venue with a fabulous produce-driven menu designed to share. Look out for cured and preserved foods like the fabulous smoked eel. Choosing wine is fun at the in-house bottle shop. The St Jude's crew have two other funky bar/restaurants nearby: Panama Dining Room does modern bistro food and Rice Queen does cheap Asian to share (2nd and 3rd floors, 231 Smith Street, Fitzroy; +61 (0)3 9417 7663; www.thepanama.com.au).
398–391 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
A restaurant, cocktail lounge and bar over three levels, Seamstress has the funky Asian food and cool cocktail market all sewn up. Housed in an old underwear factory that later became a brothel, it has quirky, clever menus and fun décor. Try the goat curry or oysters with chive foam and, to drink, the Grapefruit Punch with Thai basil. The Sweatshop club in the basement has live DJs from Monday to Saturday.
113 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Glam it up to hit the dancefloor at Eve, one of Melbourne’s classier clubs. Hit the website first to ensure your place on the guestlist.
334 City Road, Southbank, Melbourne, Victoria 3006
Fun and just a little bit naughty, Burlesque bursts into song for Friday night’s floor show, but you can create your own debauchery anytime.
42 Johnston Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Situated downstairs from the New Gold Mountain, Double Happiness is another stylish ‘hole-in-the-wall’ cocktail bar. The tongue-in-cheek decor features an array of Chinese socialist propaganda posters, while the names of the cocktails are taken from infamous moments in communist history.
21 Liverpool Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
It’s hard not to have fun at this ‘rather fancy terrace and public house’. The interior is decked out like a garden party complete with fake lawn; the exterior balcony has brilliant city views. Grab a Pims and plunge in.
Level 3, 59-63 Bourke Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
The Enoteca is a friendly place to drink wine, both at the bar with a book for company, or in the modest courtyard with friends. Simple Italian food is part of the offering. It's worth checking out the rest of the street, fast becoming a hub for achingly hip independent bars, restaurants and shops.
229 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, Melbourne, Victoria 3065
Dreamt up by a Melbourne architect who has really pushed the design boundaries, this space is set over two levels – one red, one green – and offers a sensual combination of texture, colour and pattern, as well as lots of intimate nooks and crannies for two or more.
21 Liverpool Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
For a dose of penthouse glamour, walk the balcony at Blue Diamond, impeccable cocktail in hand. Inside, a mature crowd bops to cool tunes from live bands: enjoy on the dance floor or from a comfortable chair.
Level 15, 123 Queen Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
For a taste of Melbourne’s bar, cafe and dining culture in one small package, come to Von Haus. There’s DIY decor, creative Euro-inspired eats, eclectic music and, crucially, a serious approach to liquor.
1A Crossley Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
A great place for a drink whatever the weather. In winter you can sink into a comfy Chesterfield and sample some big Aussie reds, and in the summer head to the rooftop Siglo Bar, which has a Spanish-influenced menu and leafy views of Parliament and the neighbouring rooftops. It's easy to miss – the entrance is through a discreet doorway that leads to a flight of stairs.
First floor, 161 Spring Street, Melbourne, Victoria 3000
A barbecue by the Yarra is a very Melbourne activity, but it’s much easier if someone else is cooking the sausages. Luckily, the Riverland crew wield the tongs every afternoon. Head under the bridge near Federation Square to find the venue.
Vaults 1-9, Federation Wharf (under Princes Bridge), Melbourne, Victoria 3000
Built from shipping containers and pallets, this outdoor bar reclaimed a car park to create one of the city’s most unlikely venues for no-nonsense drinking.
27-29 Tattersalls Lane (off Little Bourke Street), Melbourne, Victoria 3000
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