Worth getting out of bed for

Great Ocean Road itinerary

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Viewpoint

Get out of bed early – and we mean really early – and arrive at iconic off-shore rock stacks the Twelve Apostles before sunrise. In the soft pre-dawn light, those with good eyesight will be able to see dark forms moving into the water below – they’re the local fairy penguins. Then the colours explode as the sun comes up. It's also when the viewing platforms are least crowded. The Apostles lie just west of Princetown in the Port Campbell National Park, the start of a string of celebrated rock formations.

Arts and culture

The towns along the Great Ocean Road and the surrounding areas are a popular destination for seachangers, including artists looking to downshift to the coast. As a result, many of the area's cafés and restaurants feature local work. Port Fairy also has a selection of small galleries, including the contemporary Whale Bone Gallery (+61 (0)3 5568 2855; www.portfairygallery.com) and Wishart Gallery (+61 (0)3 5568 2423; www.wishartgallery.com), which shows Australian printmaking and has an espresso bar.

Something for nothing

Just inland from the coast is the Melba Gully State Park. During the day, follow the boardwalk into the rainforest to see the 300-year-old messmate eucalypt – not very imaginatively nicknamed Big Tree – then come back after dark with your torch to see the glow worms. This is one of the wettest parts of Victoria, so don’t forget your raincoat.

Shopping

Although not really renowned for its retail options, visitors wanting to buy some original Aussie surfwear should stop in Torquay at the east end of the road, the home of Billabong, Rip Curl and Quiksilver. Surf City Plaza on Beach Road has all of these, plus a lot of smaller retailers, as well as the Surf World Surfing Museum at the back of the complex (+61 (0)3 5261 4606; www.surfworld.org.au).

Daytripper

With a rich history, the large country town of Bendigo is well worth the drive. Gold – lots of it – was discovered in the area in 1851 and prospectors soon arrived from all around the world, including China. The legacy still remains with extravagant examples of Victorian colonial architecture on display around the town. See the splendour at the Bendigo Town Hall, law courts and post office (now the visitors’ centre). The town also boasts a range of beautiful public gardens, an art gallery that is one of the best in regional Australia, and some fine restaurants. Locavores should book a table for lunch at The Bridge (+61 (0)3 5443 7781; www.thebridgebendigo.com.au), which features not only produce from the area but an interesting selection of Bendigo wines.

Best beach

Most of the beaches along this stretch of coast are beyond beautiful: rugged, windswept and often quite deserted. Johanna Beach is a favourite with surfers (it’s a Bells Beach back-up during the famous Rip Curl Pro surf tournament) and walkers, but is far too rough for swimming.

Perfect picnic

Head to the Apollo Bay Fisherman’s Co-op on the local wharf and buy a couple of fresh crayfish and a bag of prawns. You’ll also need some lemon wedges and perhaps a pot of sauce, then spread out a blanket anywhere that takes your fancy and enjoy.

Walks

In 2006, the 100km Great Ocean Walk, stretching from Apollo Bay to Glenample (just before the Twelve Apostles), opened. You'll need at least three to six days to walk the entire distance but there are plenty of short options that take less than a day. If you don’t mind a few stairs – about 350 of them – the descent to Wreck Beach takes you to the anchors of the Marie Gabrielle and Fiji, both of which sank in the treacherous seas. If you have a few hours, the seven-kilometre walk from Castle Cove, through the bush, then down to Johanna Beach, finishing at the car park is a good one. You’ll have to get someone to pick you up at the end however.

Children

Everyone knows kids love animals and this is a great place to check out the native wildlife. Koalas are in abundance around here, especially on Lighthouse Road, which runs down to the Cape Otway Lighthouse. Look for cars stopped by the side of the road and you’re guaranteed of a sighting. For bigger children (12 years and older), kayaking out to the seal colony at Marengo Marine Reserve with Apollo Bay Surf & Kayak (+61 (0)405 495 909; www.apollobaysurfkayak.com.au) is the perfect way to spend a couple of hours. The Australian fur seals swim and play around the kayaks for an experience you’ll never forget.

Activities

Everyone looks at the spectacular landscape from the viewing platforms at Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard Gorge, but the 10-minute helicopter rides (+61 (0)3 5598 8282; www.12apostleshelicopters.com.au) that do a 25 kilometre-circuit above these landmarks give a unique perspective. They leave from behind the car park at the Twelve Apostles visitors’ centre.

And...

Climb up the stairs to the lookout at the Cape Otway Lighthouse and admire the view. No longer operational, it was built in 1848 from local sandstone after a number of shipping disasters claimed hundreds of lives. It was decommissioned in 1994 and replaced by a tiny solar-powered light.