Search

The Wall Street Journal: October 2010

Category: Hotel Selection
Escape to the Sun

“Sun, sea and sand are just three reasons to visit Belize, Brazil and Vietnam this winter. ”

Are tropical sun-drenched sands lapped by translucent turquoise waters enough for a memorable vacation? Plan your trip to the right destination and diverse cultures, colorful cuisines and stylish hotels promise an altogether edifying escape. Discerning travelers seeking once-in-a-lifetime experiences from their winter-sun sojourns should sidestep could-be-anywhere resorts and soak up the sights, sounds and flavors unique to these soul-stirring lands. Surely that’s the point of traveling?
Placencia, Belize
Belize’s landscape shifts from Caribbean island paradise to jungle-clad mountain, with a culture that blends Mayan with Mennonite, European with Garifuna. Independent since 1981, Central America’s most sparsely populated nation is beloved by adventure travelers for its astonishing beauty, exotic wildlife and world-class diving. Join the friendly Creoles of the Placencia peninsula for a slow-paced life of palm-fringed bars and lobster festivals.
Weather
Winter and spring bring clement weather as well as the most visitors. January to the end of May is best for uninterrupted sunshine. A subtropical, moderate climate prevails, but it can be wet with brief showers outside of the dry months; August to October is hurricane season.
Sand
Placencia has miles of white-sand beaches begging for barefoot strolls at the edge of coral-studded waters, but boat out to the Turneffe Islands for desert-island bliss.
Sights
The Barrier Reef here is second to only its Australian counterpart: the diving is spectacular. Take a two-hour boat ride from San Pedro to the Great Blue Hole, the collapsed underwater limestone cave that forms a black circle in the turquoise water. Drive inland to see how the Mayans left their mark with sacrificial altars and hieroglyphic-decorated capstones uncovered from the jungles of Caracol. Kayak along the Monkey River to spy boa constrictors and crocodiles.
Specialties
Taking cues from neighboring cuisines, Belizean dishes have Mexican, Spanish, Caribbean and Mayan influences. Coastal delicacies like conch fritters and grilled lobster vie for attention with mountain fare such as intense mole chicken or light escabeche broth.
Stay
Balinese-style beach huts, brightly colored hammocks slung between slanted palm trees and sun-sparkled Caribbean waters are at the heart of Turtle Inn. One of Francis Ford Coppola’s Central American resorts (siblings are Blancaneaux Lodge and La Lancha in Guatemala), this is a glamour-sprinkled, rustic-thatched retreat. 25 villas and cottages; $340-$2850 a night, including breakfast and tax. Mrandmrssmith.com/Turtle-Inn
Bahia, Brazil
A melting pot of African, European and Indian cultures, this sprawling north state is home to bustling cities with a distinctly African vibe as well as stylish seaside resorts beloved by the jet set. If you want to party, Bahia is hedonism central.  The birthplace of the leg-spinning, body-whirling martial art of capoeira, Bahia truly sparks into life around Carnival time in February.
Weather
There’s never a bad time to go: temperatures are high year-round. Summer is most fun, and December to February it’s a build-up to the big Carnival celebrations; winter is delightfully sedate with no jostling for beach space.
Sand
Along the Corumbau shoreline (or longe de tudo meaning "far from everything" in native Brazilian tongue) on the southern coast, endless powder-soft beaches fringe crystal-clear waters where coral reefs stretch out to sea. Catch sight of humpback whales July to November: during winter, they migrate here to mate.
Sights
Pry yourself from your hammock and take a boat trip up the Corumbao river to Monte Pascoal, the legendary “first glimpse” of Brazil seen by Portuguese explorers in 1500 and the site of a Pataxó Indian reservation.
Specialties
Afro-Brazilian cuisine makes delicious street food; chicken, mutton, goat and seafood cooked in chilis, coconut milk and palm oil is the result of the African heritage mingled with Portuguese and Indian Influences.
Stay
Backed by virgin forest and fronted by a private white stretch of shoreline, the terracotta-toned farm Fazenda São Francisco offers a taste of wild Bahia without compromising on contemporary luxury.   Set back from the sea, its modern bungalows have towering ceilings, sliding shuttered doors and a modern style reminiscent of warm, woody Hamptons interiors. 10 suites, including four standalone bungalows; $757-$1170 a night, including all meals and taxes. Mrandmrssmith.com/Fazenda
Nha Trang, Vietnam
There’s more to Vietnam’s leading seaside resort than a stretch of sand. On the south-central coast, Nha Trang is a buzzing town that offers a compact window on the country, appealing to anyone overwhelmed by the scale of nearby Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. The nightlife may be more raucous than Hoi An or Hué, but Nha Trang retains a unique charm and it’s not hard to find a quiet people-watching spot. Hemmed in by jagged peaks and ringed by tropical islands, it is a top dive destination.
Weather
Ha Trang has some of the best weather on Vietnam’s coastline. Officially, rains arrive October to December, but in recent years they’ve been light in comparison with the north. 
Sand
Nha Trang Beach sweeps five miles along the town’s seafront; laze away the day from a lounger, then prowl the restaurants and hopping bars of this urban jungle by night.
Sights
Earmark the mosaic dragons at hilltop pavilion, Long Soon Pagoda, then visit the white Big Buddha, visible from all over Nha Trang, and he’ll reward you with spectacular views. Between the 7th and 12th centuries, the Hindu Chams towers are a gentle introduction to the art and architecture of the Kingdom of Champa.
Specialties
Delicate flavors, subtle aromas and fresh ingredients are the hallmarks of Vietnamese cuisine. Nha Trang is the seafood capital, with a fishing fleet visible in the estuary nestled beneath the Po Nagar Cham Towers. Lobster farms provide fresh tails daily and the squid is more tender than you dare imagine, lightly grilled with lemongrass and chili.
Stay
Isolated in a crescent-shaped bay accessible only by boat, rustic yet undeniably luxurious Six Senses Ninh Van Bay offers decks over the sea, outstanding cuisine, butler service and an award winning spa. 58 villas are dotted about the hillside: for jungle seclusion, request Spa Suite 4 or 5. Water Villas have private plunge pools and ladders to the sea. $690- $3427 a night, including tax and service charge. Mrandmrssmith.com/Six-Senses-Vietnam