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Highly Harrogate

No visit to Harrogate is complete without a visit to Bettys tea rooms. The queues may look offputting, but once you're inside, the towering cake stands and delicate brews will have you by the heartstrings. Traditionalists won't be able to resist the classic 'tea for two', with delicate finger sandwiches, scones with jam and cream, and cakes of toothache-inducing sweetness; however, since menus give the best of Yorkshire a Swiss twist, rebels might prefer a melting gruyere rösti and a glass of Gewürtztraminer, followed by a Matterhorn sundae.

Don't go home without

… checking out what a real fishmonger should look like: Ramus Seafood Emporium at 136 Kings Road (+44 (0)1423 563271; www.ramus.co.uk) is a lesson in fishy perfection from its smoked salmon to its barracuda fillets.