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Completely Cornwall

You won’t walk far here without coming across a pasty shop. The ultimate portable picnic, these pastry-encased mini-meals originally kept miners and farmers going throughout the working day. Cornish food writer Hettie Merrick has scotched the theory that they sometimes contained ‘two courses’, with a savoury filling at one end and a fruity one at the other. Put your disappointment aside and wrap your lips around a treat made by Hettie’s daughter Ann Muller, reckoned to be Cornwall’s finest pasty-maker, from the Lizard Pasty Shop in Helston (01326 290889).

Don't go home without

…trying to speak a few words of the native tongue: around 4,000 people still speak Kernewek, a language with strong ties to Breton and Welsh, and Cornish independence is still desired by many. BBC Radio Cornwall sometimes broadcasts in the language, although the last person brought up to speak Cornish as her mother tongue – the fabled Dolly Pentreath – died in 1777. Make someone’s morning by greeting them with ‘Myttin da’.

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Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best seaside cafés, the liveliest lunch spots, the most accomplished restaurants and the freshest seafood in Cornwall. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your appetite…

Restaurants

Driftwood Restaurant

At the divine Driftwood boutique hotel, chef Chris Eden (formerly at the Square) uses fresh, local and organic ingredients when available to produce his Modern European menu; highlights include wonderful fish and seafood and home-made bread. The restaurant is always open to non-residents, but it's a good idea to book a table.

Driftwood, Rosevine, near Portscatho, Cornwall TR2 5EW
(+44 (0)1872 580644)


St Ervan Manor

The fine dining restaurant inside this grade-II listed former rectory in Padstow focuses on Cornish produce and fresh seafood, with ingredients often sourced from the manor’s own vegetable garden and orchard.

St Ervan Manor, near Padstow
+44 (0)1841 540255


Fifteen Cornwall

The views over Watergate Bay, between Padstow and Newquay, are as rip-roaring as the food cooked up by Jamie Oliver’s band of 15 local trainees. Here, quality Cornish produce – yarg, wild venison from Bodmin Moor, and funghi foraged by the restaurant’s own mushroom hunters – is transformed into imaginative Italianate dishes on a weekly changing menu. Booking essential (www.fifteencornwall.co.uk).

On the Beach, Watergate Bay, Cornwall TR8 4AA
(+44 (0)1637 861000)


The Lugger

This restaurant in Portloe does excellent seafood and has tables overlooking the tiny harbour.

Harbour Head, Pothleven, Helston
+44 (0)1872 501322


The Hotel Tresanton Restaurant

An excellent terrace restaurant with superb views over the bay at St Mawes and all the way to St Anthony’s lighthouse. The menu expertly combines fresh seafood with delicious organic vegetables (www.tresanton.com).

Hotel Tresanton, 27 Lower Castle Road, St Mawes, Cornwall TR2 5DR
(+44 (0)1326 270055)


Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

This Michelin-friendly chef has made a splash in Fowey with his delicious, expertly crafted yet unpretentious menus; there’s a well-stocked wine cellar to complement the rich stocks of fresh fish and seafood.

Marina Villa Hotel, the Esplanade, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1HY
(+44 (0)1726 833315)


Fowey Hall

Perhaps as you’d expect from the hotel that inspired Toad Hall from Wind in the Willows, family dining is the order of the day here at Fowey Hall, part of our Smith & Kids hotel collection. The grown-ups’ menu centres on good seafood and shellfish cooked simply, with flavours stretching from the Mediterranean to Asia.

Hanson Drive, Fowey, Cornwall, PL23 1ET
(+44 (0)1726 833866)


Q Restaurant

One of the best places to eat in Cornwall, this city-sleek venue overlooks the beautiful Fowey waterfront. Chef Ben Bass gives that overtired concept, ‘Modern European’ food, a Cornish spin using local meats and seafood. There’s a solid wine list, too (www.theoldquayhouse.com).

The Old Quay House, 28 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AQ
(+44 (0)1726 833302)


Sam’s

A cosy, diner-style bistro that’s a lively lunch spot, with great burgers and no-messin’ seafood. No reservation required, either (www.samsfowey.co.uk).

20 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AQ
(+44 (0)1726 832273)


The Other Place

The more upmarket sister restaurant to Sam’s, overlooking the river and handy if you're a guest at Fowey Hall, a member of our Smith & Kids hotel collection. Upstairs, there’s a genteel dining room serving local seafood and game, and a ground-floor café for ice-cream and cappuccinos.

41 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AQ
(+44 (0)1726 833636)


Cafés

Charlotte’s Tea House

The building is grade II-listed, the staff wear black Victorian uniforms, and the cream teas are perfect; this Truro tea house is about as traditional as it gets.

Coinage Hall, 1 Boscawen Street, Truro, Cornwall TR1 2QU
(+44 (0)1872 263706)


Rectory Farm Tea Rooms

Set in a 13th-century farmhouse near Bude, this is the place for freshly baked scones with jam and clotted cream. You may like to take the spectacular clifftop walk afterwards to burn off all those extra calories.

Rectory Farm, Crosstown, Morwenstow, near Bude, Cornwall EX23 9SR
(+44 (0)1288 331251)


Charlies Coffee House

Chilled, family-run café in a converted post office, with leather sofas, all the daily papers, and countertop cakes the size of LPs. As well as a warm welcome, you’ll be treated to fresh Cornish ingredients served up in traditional Cornish-sized helpings; the catch of the day is plucked from a bay just 300 metres away.

79 Charlestown Road, St Austell, Cornwall PL25 3NL
(+44 (0)1726 67421)


Lizard Pasty Shop

Made by Ann Muller – daughter of renowned Cornish pasty expert and food writer Hettie Merrick – the pasties sold here are reckoned to be among the finest in the region.

Beacon Terrace, The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall TR12 7PB
(+44 (0)1326 290889)


Pinky Murphy’s Café

With its ramshackle beach-hut stylings – stripy director's chairs, salvage-chic furniture, beanbags for kids – this laid-back hangout is a good bet for sating savoury cravings. Plump for the goat’s cheese bake (www.pinkymurphys.com).

19 North Street, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1DB
(+44 (0)1726 832512)


Bars and clubs

Pubs

King of Prussia

A good spot for real ales, Cornish cream teas and delicious pub grub from a constantly updated chalkboard menu. Head downstairs to Little Prussia, a smaller, more intimate space with minimalist leanings, retro bucket seats, and black bream instead of beer-battered fish (www.kingofprussiafowey.com).

Town Quay, Fowey, Cornwall PL23 1AT
(+44 (0)1726 833694)


Llawnroc Inn

This tucked-away fisherman’s bar has a peerless beer garden offering clifftop views. Pity the thirsty tourists who don’t know it exists (http://llawnroc.mevagissey.com).

33 Chute Lane, Gorran Haven, St Austell, Cornwall PL26 6NU
(+44 (0)1726 843461)