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Irresistibly Istanbul

Get the cleanest you’ve been since your mama scrubbed behind your ears back in the day with a soak at a steamy, traditional Turkish hammam. Les Ottomans’ Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa on Muallim Naci Caddesi offers a luxurious, modern take on the Turkish bath, and has couples treatments (0212 359 1500; www.lesottomans.com). Cağaloğlu Hamam near the Grand Bazaar was built almost 300 years ago and is absolutely authentic (0212 522 2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr). If you’re so inclined, you can relax further with a <i>nargile</i> (hubbly-bubbly pipe) at the cafés off Tophane Iskelesi near the Nusretiye mosque.

Don't go home without

… having sundown cocktails at Angelique or House Café (both in Ortakoy): get a seat facing the Mecidiye Mosque in time for sunset - amazing views and the evening call to prayer blasting from the mosques' loudspeakers.

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Istanbul hotels

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