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Irresistibly Istanbul

Get the cleanest you’ve been since your mama scrubbed behind your ears back in the day with a soak at a steamy, traditional Turkish hammam. Les Ottomans’ Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa on Muallim Naci Caddesi offers a luxurious, modern take on the Turkish bath, and has couples treatments (0212 359 1500; www.lesottomans.com). Cağaloğlu Hamam near the Grand Bazaar was built almost 300 years ago and is absolutely authentic (0212 522 2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr). If you’re so inclined, you can relax further with a <i>nargile</i> (hubbly-bubbly pipe) at the cafés off Tophane Iskelesi near the Nusretiye mosque.

Don't go home without

… having sundown cocktails at Angelique or House Café (both in Ortakoy): get a seat facing the Mecidiye Mosque in time for sunset - amazing views and the evening call to prayer blasting from the mosques' loudspeakers.

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Getting there

Holidays in Istanbul, Turkey

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Istanbul Atatürk (www.ataturkairport.com) is the main international hub, a 30-minute cab ride from the city centre (without traffic). The journey costs about £25 – try to avoid flights that arrive or depart around rush hour. From the UK, there are regular scheduled flights from London and Manchester to Atatürk. EasyJet flies from Luton daily to Sabiha Gökçen airport (www.sgairport.com), 30 miles from the city centre. Remember to bring a £10 note for your Turkish visa on arrival at the airport.
Boats
The ferries and water taxis on the Bosphorus are one of the most attractive ways to get around the city. Boats can transport you from Europe to Asia in a matter of minutes, or whisk you from the city centre out to the peaceful Princes’ Islands (see www.ido.com.tr for timetables). Hotel A’jia has its own private launch, to chauffeur guests around in style. Korfez (a fish restaurant on the Asia side) also has a private boat to ferry its guests across the Bosphorus.
Trains
Istanbul has a modern and efficient metro and tram system. The network goes as far as Atatürk airport, and is as fast as a taxi in heavy traffic.
Automobiles
Driving is a bad idea; the twisting streets are clogged with traffic and it’s very difficult to navigate – stick to taxis. There are also express buses between Taksim and Atatürk airport.

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