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Irresistibly Istanbul

Get the cleanest you’ve been since your mama scrubbed behind your ears back in the day with a soak at a steamy, traditional Turkish hammam. Les Ottomans’ Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa on Muallim Naci Caddesi offers a luxurious, modern take on the Turkish bath, and has couples treatments (0212 359 1500; www.lesottomans.com). Cağaloğlu Hamam near the Grand Bazaar was built almost 300 years ago and is absolutely authentic (0212 522 2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr). If you’re so inclined, you can relax further with a <i>nargile</i> (hubbly-bubbly pipe) at the cafés off Tophane Iskelesi near the Nusretiye mosque.

Don't go home without

… having sundown cocktails at Angelique or House Café (both in Ortakoy): get a seat facing the Mecidiye Mosque in time for sunset - amazing views and the evening call to prayer blasting from the mosques' loudspeakers.

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Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Istanbul.

Restaurants

Lucca

Hang out with Istanbul’s footballers and WAGS at this restaurant, after dinner at Muzedechanga nearby – it’s basically Boujis by Bosphorus.

Cevdetpaşa Caeddesi, Bebek
+90 (0)212 257 1255


Mikla

One of the ‘it’ places to go out in Istanbul at the moment, there are great 360-degree views from the roof-top infinity pool.

Meşrutiyet Caddesi Tepebaşı, The Marmara Pera, Istanbul
+90 (0)212 293 5656


Lokanta

The name rather unimaginatively means ‘restaurant’ in Turkish, but this place in Tepebasi certainly has an inspired menu.

Mesrutiyet Caddesi 149/1, Istanbul
(+90 (0)212 245 6039)


NuTeras

This stylish venue in Tapebasi is perched high above the rooftops and has wonderful views; it's the perfect place for summer sundowners.

Tepebaşı Mesrutiyet Caddesi 147-149, Petit-Champs Passage, Istanbul
+90 (0)212 245 6070


Changa

Located in central Taksim, this place is owned and operated by Tarik Bayazit and Savas Ertunc, Istanbul’s most pioneering and connected couple. Peter Gordon – The Providores, Marylebone High Street – consults on the menu.

Siraselviler Caddesi 87/1, Istanbul
+90 (0)212 249 1205


Müzedechanga

A 20-minute taxi ride up the Bosphorus, this restaurant has a sublime terrace in summer.

Sakip Sabanci Museum, Caddesi 2, Atlikosk, Emirgan
+90 212 323 0901


Vogue

A good choice for well-prepared sushi and Pacific-rim cuisine, served up with a backdrop of non-stop Fashion TV (yuck) and fantastic Bosporus view (yeah!).

A Blok 13th Floor, BJK Plaza, (Süleyman Seba Caddesi, Besiktas)
+90 (0)212 227 4404


Ulus 29

An established haunt for local celebrities and business mover shakers, who come to dine on delicious Ottoman and Middle Eastern dishes. The ‘29’ in the name refers to the 29 classic dishes on the menu.

Yol Sokak 1 (off Adnan Saygun Caddesi), Ulus Parki, Ulus, Istanbul
+90 (0)212 265 6181


Cafés

Markiz Café

The art nouveau tiles of Markiz Café, on in Beyoğlu hark back to the bohemian days when artists used to hang out here.

Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoğlu, Istanbul


Mangerie

Near Bebek metro stop is the perfect place for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Fresh pastries are made on site. CNN Turkey film a cookery show here so there’s your chance to make it on Turkish TV!

Cevdetpaşa Caeddesi 69


Simdi

In Tunel is a good stop for coffee, with low sofas inside and a courtyard outside.

Asmalimescit Sokak 69


Istanbul Modern

This place occupies a waterfront warehouse and has a fantastic café with a balcony over the Bosphorus.

Meclis-i Mebusan Caddesi, Karaköy


Indigo

A new electro haunt that is a winner in winter, with a line-up of international DJs and live acts.

Istiklal Caddesi 1-5, Beyoğlu


Bars and clubs

Angelique

An ultra cool place with great Bosphorus views and packed after midnight with super-rich crowd of model types and men who love ogling them.

Muallim Naci Caddesi, 109, Ortakoy