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Keenly Koh Samui

It’s impossible to miss the posters for the Full Moon Party when in Samui. Every lunar month, nearly 20,000 visitors take the 50-minute ferry ride from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan, disembarking into a party whirlwind that borders on the decadent. It’s an experience in itself if you’re young-at-heart or plain curious. Smart hoteliers have also begun chartering boats to take you out and back for a short glimpse of the party – long enough to have fun, short enough so you won’t feel stranded; we recommend one of these abbreviated journeys for those who want to see what all the fuss is about without the experience turning into an endurance test. For pleasures of the more sedate sort at Koh Phangan, there are acclaimed yoga institutions such as the Chakra Yoga Centre (+66 89 908 8620) and Agama Yoga (+66 (0)89 233 0217), both offering lessons and training certification.

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Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Koh Samui. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your favourite threads…

Restaurants

Bellini


Charming Italian chef Francesco Vitagliano cooks up a fine selection of traditional rustic dishes in this elegant Chaweng eatery. Pizzas, pastas and seafood are all rendered with flair and complemented with a meticulously selected wine list.

Soi Colibri, Chaweng South, 46/24, 26, Moo 3, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7741 3831

Betelnut

Run by an American chef who loves talking to his customers as much as he likes to cook, Betelnut is a cool, casual institution. Chef Lord’s fusion cuisine – an exquisite collision between Thai and Californian – is familiar and exotic, like the beach scene just outside his doors.

Soi Colibri, Chaweng South 43/04-5, Moo 3, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7741 3370


The Mangrove

The Mangrove is an excellent off-the-radar French restaurant operated by a talented French/Belgian couple. Enjoy alfresco dining overlooking the mangrove forest that gives the place its name, and listening to the sounds of the surrounding jungle. There’s a roster of daily specials but house favourites include the wonderful Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Béarnaise Sauce. Make sure you order a post-prandial rum ginger.

Airport Road, Big Buddha Beach, 32/6, Moo 4, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7742 7584


Tropical Murphy’s

The only Irish pub on Koh Samui, this cheerful Chaweng landmark serves up a mean Ulster Fry to kick-start your day. After all, you can’t live off of buffet breakfasts and banana pancakes all the time. Portions are just as generous for the Thai-slanted pub grub.

Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng Centre, 14/40, Moo 2, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7741 3614


Lom Talay

At sunset, make a beeline for the terrace of this Thai-cum-Mediterranean hotel restaurant and watch the sun sink over the sea. The hilltop restaurant overlooks Ang Thong Marine National Park and serves fresh local seafood that’s as good as the view.

Baan Taling Ngam Resort and Spa, 295, Moo 3, Tambon Taling Ngam, 84140 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7742 9100


Cafés

Starfish & Coffee


Starfish and coffee aren’t the most obvious bedfellows, but this quirky Bophut café makes then seem the most natural of marriages, recreating Mediterranean-chic within its brick walls. Nosh aside, this inimitable joint offers massages and boasts an attached boutique.

51/7, Moo 1, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 7742 7201

Bars and clubs

Guapa


If Mexican sunsets came in a can, Guapa’s walls would be painted with them. Live jazz and latin music ease the evening along, aided and abetted by quality cocktails, an impressive wine selection, Cuban cigars, and an innovative tapas menu created by Betelnut’s chef.

Soi Colibri, Chaweng South, 46/12, Moo 3, Tambon Bo Phut, 84320 Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand
+66 (0) 897 242 843

Q Bar

This Bangkok-born Thai nightlife institution (www.qbarsamui.com) overlooks Chaweng Lake. Cutting-edge music and stylish decor attract a well-heeled party crowd.


Solo

Solo is an oasis of ivory cool in the heart of Chaweng. The couch seats on the first levels are great for unwinding while people-watching.

+66 (0) 7744 0125


Bar@C

For somewhere a little swankier, head to Amari Palm Reef Resort’s own cocktail lounge. Yummy daiquiris are the poison of choice at this sophisticated beachfront bar.

+66 (0) 7742 2015 19