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Beautifully Bangkok

One of the great quirks of Thai culture is the ability to balance deep-rooted conservativism with high levels of tolerance and integration. The case in point: Bangkok’s astonishing population of transvestites and transsexuals (katoeys) who are almost universally accepted. Many work in normal jobs but some of the more flamboyant members of the ladyboy community take to the stages of transgender cabaret. The best of the lot is the professional Calypso Cabaret (www.calypsocabaret.com) – well worth dropping in for one of their two nightly shows.

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Worth getting out of bed for

Highlights the best Bangkok has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Viewpoint
Admire a sunrise riverside spectacular at Thailand’s tallest temple – the aptly named Temple of the Dawn, Wat Arun. Even the journey here is appealing, providing a chance to watch this restless city rouse from its slumber. Head to the river and take either a private boat or the Chao Phraya river bus to the temple. Climb to the top of Wat Arun’s mythical-Khmer-being-emblazoned 250ft high prang (spire) and enjoy an uplifting view of the City of Angels.

Arts and culture
The Grand Palace is a bewitching visual feast that, at first sight, can leave you gawping in wonder. More than an eyebrow-lifting relic, however, it’s a living, breathing spiritual centre, home to Wat Phra Kaeo, the sacred temple of the Emerald Buddha. Bangkok’s snazzy Thailand Creative & Design Centre (http://www.tcdc.or.th) in the Emporium shopping centre, hosts regular exhibitions focusing on historic and contemporary Thai design.

Something for nothing
Head to the Lak Muang Shrine, opposite the Grand Palace, which houses the city’s blessed pillars (containing the city’s horoscope); map-wise, all distances to Bangkok are measured to this spot. A host of guardian shrines believed to grant wishes draw hundreds of supplicants every day. Marvel over the whirling traditional Thai dancers, hired by devotees to please the resident spirits.

Shopping
When the Thais aren’t eating, they’re shopping. The biggest, brightest and busiest shopping centre is the leviathan Siam Paragon (www.siamparagon.co.th). There’s direct access from the Siam Skytrain station into this colossal upmarket mega-mall, where the variety of food offerings is as wide as the shop-selection. To experience the creativity of Bangkok’s youthful population, hop across the road from Paragon to Siam Square, an atmospheric warren of mini-boutiques and food stalls. Bangkok’s most famous market is the Chatuchak Weekend Market (known to locals as ‘JJ)’, conveniently located next to Kampaeng Phet Metro. With 6,000 stalls selling everything from bronze Buddhas to smiling puppies to every designer knock-off imaginable, Chatachuk is where Thais and foreigners alike flock to empty their purses.

Daytripper
Thailand’s former capital Ayuthayya, is a smorgasbord of crumbling antiquities and seductive, secreted temples, 50 miles north of Bangkok. Much like the rest the country, these are not museum pieces but living, breathing spaces, still populated and adored by saffron-robed monks. The Chao Phraya winds its way up here from Bangkok and several companies offer cruises (boat one way, air-con coach the other). One of the better efforts is the Ayutthaya Princess, which leaves the Shangri-La Hotel pier at 8am every morning – speak to your concierge about booking.

Perfect Picnic
Forget sitting outside when the weather is sweltering hot: don your white linens, polish your Queen’s English and take afternoon tea in the Author’s Lounge at the historic Mandarin Oriental hotel. Just make sure you book ahead; this place gets packed (+66 (0)53 888 888).

Activities
Even a few days in Bangkok leaves most visitors gasping for breath. To unwind, head to Bang Ka Jao. Set across the Chao Phraya River from Khlong Toey pier in the centre, Bang Ka Jao is a lush jungle oasis that still maintains a village-like feel. You can tour the area by bike (www.bangkok.com/cycling-tours).

Diary

January-February Chinese New Year is extravagantly celebrated by Bangkok’s Thai-Chinese population and China Town is awash with festive colour. March  Dozens of Thai designers showcase their creations at Bangkok Fashion Week. 13–15 April Traditionally, the Thai New Year is rung in with well-wishers throwing water at each other. Don’t wear your Sunday best. May Visakha Bucha Day celebrates the life of Buddha. A major highlight is the candlelit evening procession around Wat Benjamabophit. October World Film Festival. November Loy Krathong is celebrated through the placing tiny floating candles along all of Bangkok’s major waterways. December The Bangkok Jazz Festival is one of the biggest in Asia. 5 December. Thais celebrate the birthday of their monarch, King Bhumibol Adulyadej.

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