Beautifully Bangkok

One of the great quirks of Thai culture is the ability to balance deep-rooted conservativism with high levels of tolerance and integration. The case in point: Bangkok’s astonishing population of transvestites and transsexuals (katoeys) who are almost universally accepted. Many work in normal jobs but some of the more flamboyant members of the ladyboy community take to the stages of transgender cabaret. The best of the lot is the professional Calypso Cabaret (www.calypsocabaret.com) – well worth dropping in for one of their two nightly shows.

Getting there

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes: Bangkok’s new Suvarnabhumi Airport (www.bangkokairportonline.com), 25km to the east of the city centre, is the hub for all international and most domestic traffic. Eva Airways (www.evaair.com) offers regular direct flights from Heathrow. Upon arrival, metered taxis will take you into the city for approx THB250–300, plus the THB50 airport surcharge and toll road fees. The official AOT (Airports of Thailand) limo service – watch out for touts – costs about THB1,000.
Trains: Two urban rail systems serve Bangkok. The sleek, efficient Skytrain serves 25 stations around the city on two lines while a single-line Metro service serves 18 stations. Tickets, though dirt-cheap, are not transferable between the two. Bangkok’s main station is Thailand’s major transport node, offering services to and from all areas of the country. See www.railway.co.th for details.
Automobiles: Unless you plan on spending your time here frustrated and/or bored, do not rent a car. Bangkok can be a labyrinth to the uninitiated, and is renowned for its traffic jams. Unless you plan on spending your time here frustrated and/or bored, do not rent a car. Bangkok can be a labyrinth to the uninitiated, and is renowned for its traffic jams.

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