Bangkok

Thailand

Cityscape: Organised chaos
City life: Mega-malls meet ancient relics

A sultry, engaging cacophony of sights, smells, tastes and heat, Thailand's capital is a wonder in itself, often resembling a gigantic, sprawling sauna, filled with with temples, ladyboys, delicious street-food and gridlock.

Whatever you do, don’t be put off by Bangkok’s travails – there’s probably no city on earth offering such a staggering array of affordable pleasures. From sumptuous day-spas and exquisite dining through to ubiquitous street food and relaxing foot massage, gratification is never more than a moment away. The key word in the City of Angels is sanook – a Thai term that loosely translates as ‘easygoing fun’ and which is instilled into every element of Thai culture.

Pictured: Luxx

Boutique hotels in Bangkok

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Bangkok

Getting there

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Worth getting out of bed for

Highlights the best Bangkok has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Eating, drinking & dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Bangkok.

Smith Maps

Here is the map of Bangkok; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.

Taxis: Bangkok’s cabs have a flat hire rate of THB35, and it’s usually a good idea to politely remind the driver to use his meter before departure. Most taxi drivers won’t speak English – so it can be helpful to have addresses or directions in Thai to hand. Fares are usually rounded up to the nearest THB5. The open-sided, three-wheeler tuk tuks look like fun but are best avoided – they have a tendency to envelope their passengers in smog and drivers can be somewhat ‘creative’ with their fare structure.
Tipping culture: A 10 per cent service charge is included in most hotel and restaurant bills, but it’s relatively rare that this reaches the staff. Where service has been exceptional, a cash tip is always appreciated.
Siesta and Fiesta: Business hours are between 8/8.30am and 5.30pm on weekdays. Banks usually operate between 9.30am and 3.30pm during the week. Mall shops often stay open until 9pm, and many bars and casual restaurants keep entertaining into the small hours.
Packing tips: Bangkok sells plenty of threads at rock-bottom prices so pack light and reinvent your wardrobe while you’re here. Alternatively, bring plenty of light, thin, airy clothing – even T-shirts can feel cloying in the humid heat.
Recommended reads: To get to grips with the nuances of Thai popular culture, pick up a copy of Phil Cornwel-Smith’s highly entertaining Very Thai. John Burdett’s detective thrillers, Bangkok 8 and Bangkok Tattoo are pulpy but engaging. Michelin-starred David Thompson’s guide to local cuisine, simply entitled Thai Food, is an essential gastro-publication.
Cuisine: Bangkok is a gourmet’s paradise – from the unfathomable victuals of China Town through to upscale international dining and some of the finest street food on the planet. The most authentic, the freshest and the very best food can be found in the ubiquitous stalls strewn throughout Bangkok’s bustling streets. Thai food is a symphony of hot, sour, salty and sweet flavours that can produce delectable results. If your taste buds are nervous types, ask for ‘pet nit noi’ – just a little spice. You can always ask for ‘pet mak mak’ when you’re feeling bolder.
Currency: Thai baht. £1 is approximately THB65.
Time zone: Time zone GMT +7
Dialing codes: Country code for Thailand: 66; Bangkok (0)2
Do go/don't go: Bangkok is hot year-round, but temperatures are on the cooler side of roasting between November and Februrary. Between April and July thermometers can shoot up to the 40 degree mark. The rainy season begins in September and usually ends in November.