City breaks in Granada, Spain

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Genuinely Granada

Granada is one of the few cities left in Spain that still offers free tapas. Join the locals at around 9pm for the evening bar-hop, enjoying a whistle-stop tour of the local cuisine as you go. You’ll be given a tapa with each drink, with the dish often increasing in quality and complexity the more drinks you buy. Calle Navas is the best place to start…

Don't go home without

…a handmade Spanish guitar – there are numerous instrument makers working in the city and their guitars are among the best in the world.

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Worth getting out of bed for

City breaks in Granada, Spain

Highlights the best Granada has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Viewpoint
As evening approaches, head to the the Mirador de San Nicolas, a small square in Albayzín, where you can watch the walls of Alhambra grow pink as the sun sets and enjoy magical panoramas of the city and the Sierra Nevada. Musical accompaniment is provided by gypsy guitarists singing traditional songs, and there’s always a convivial fiesta atmosphere.

Arts and culture
One of the finest examples of mediaeval Moorish architecture in southern Spain, it’s easy to lose a day marvelling at Alhambra (www.alhambra.org). The richly decorated throne rooms with intricate plasterwork, courtyards filled with fountains and pools and secluded gardens and towers overlooking the city form an architectural masterpiece that have lost none of their power to charm after 700 years. Even if you’re unable to secure tickets for the Nasrid palaces (visitor slots get booked up weeks in advance), it’s still worth a visit to explore the magnificent grounds and the summer palace.

Something for nothing
Stop to listen to the buskers and performers on Oficios outside the Capilla Real near the cathedral. Be warned: the women handing out rosemary sprigs aren’t doing so out of the kindness of their hearts – a polite ‘no quiero’ should save you from having your (increasingly expensive) fortune told.

Shopping
The alley-riddled Arab and Jewish quarters of Alcaicería – the former site of the city’s silk bazaar is the place to go for traditional Andalucian jewellery and ceramics. Reez (+34 958 220642), on Placeta Albaida in Albayzín, is a tiny designer-jeweller nook that’s worth a peep. Tauriq (+34 958 291057) on San Jerónimo houses a collection of arts and antiquities from Spain, Morocco, Ethiopia and China. Another antiqueish place, Antiguedades Arte Reyes (+34 958 293487) on Calle Elvira sells an assortment of local pieces, including glassware, architectural salvage and furniture.

Daytripper
Hire a car and head west to the pretty little white village of Loja, about 45km from Granada, and visit Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress from the 9th century, and the 16th-century San Gabriel church. A few kilometres outside town on the Rio Genil you’ll find Los Infiernos, a series of impressive waterfalls, set within a protected area of outstanding natural beauty. For lunch, head to the award-winning, creative La Finca restaurant at the Hotel La Bobadilla. (+34 958 321861).

Best beach
Head to Cabopino near Malaga, around two-hour’s drive from Granada, a largely undeveloped stretch of sand with plenty of seafood restaurants.

Perfect Picnic
You’ll need a ticket to enter, but the gardens of the Generalife in Alhambra, filled with roses and fountains, are full of hidden places to sit and enjoy a picnic lunch. J. Mariscal on Acera del Casino is a top-notch deli selling fabulous local jamon, cheeses, breads and everything else you’d need for an alfresco lunch.

Walks
Starting at the Plaza de Bib-Rambla, stroll to the Plaza Pasiegas and bear to the right of the imposing cathedral, stopping at the Capilla Real to peek in at the royal tombs of Ferdinand and Isabel. Then, cross over the Gran via de Colon and walk up Carcel Baja which to Caldereria Nueva, filled with Moroccan teashops and boutiques. From here head west onto the Plaza Nueva and follow it north along the Carrera del Darro. Stop in at the 11th-century baths along the way. Once you reach the bridge at the end cross over and follow the path, known as the Cuesta de los Chinos, up to Alhambra. You can linger for lunch in the courtyard of the Parador de San Francisco (+34 958 221440).

Children
Hilly, cobbled Granada isn’t exactly an ideal destination to visit en famille, but older kids will enjoy a visit to one of the city’s many guitar makers. (Try Antonio Marín Montero on Cuesta del Caidero, +34 958 228977). Alternatively, take a private flamenco lesson with Carmen de las Cuevas school on Cuesta de los Chinos (+ 34 958 221062). Sierra Essences (www.sierranevada.co.uk) offers extreme-sporty activities such as canyon descents and underground swims in the nearby mountains to over-10s

Activities
The nearby mountains of the Sierra Nevada (www.sierranevada.co.uk) offer ample opportunities for trekking, climbing, biking, skiing and snowboarding. If that all sounds like too much effort, thee new Mediterranean Cooking School in Albaycín offers food-market tours, cooking lessons and classes in wine and cheese appreciation (+34 958 201557; www.alhambratravel.com). More relaxing still, a trip to the hammam or Baños Arabes that have sprung up in the city (+34 958 229978; www.hammamspain.com). Entry gets you two hours of wallowing in pools heated to various temperatures and the option of a short massage – a rejuvenating antidote to a long day’s sightseeing.

Diary

2 January  Street parades and cultural events mark the anniversary of the Catholic conquest of  Granada in 1492. February Carnival comes to Granada.  May The Rocket Festival – head to the village of Alahama de Granada for four days of music and DJs in the Andalucian sunshine (www.rocketfestival.com). September The last Sunday of the month is devoted to Granada’s patron, the Virgen de las Angustias and the festival brings  processions, floral offerings, bullfights and dancing to the city.

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