Worth getting out of bed for
Highlights the best Córdoba has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.
- Viewpoint
- Climb the Torre de los Leones and/or the Torre de Homenaje at the Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos for knockout panoramas of the gardens, the Guadalquivir river, and the Roman bridge.
- Arts and culture
- The Mezquita Cathedral is the sparkliest jewel in Córdoba’s crown; once one of the largest and most impressive mosques in the world, it’s now a Roman Catholic cathedral. Seemingly endless rows of red and white brick arches lead you through a wide range of artistic influences from Islamic to Gothic and Baroque. The light beaming through the ornate wooden windows is especially inspiring. Andalucia is the heartland of flamenco, and you can catch energetic daily performances at Tablao et Cardenal (+34 95 748 3320), beside the Mezquita.
- Something for nothing
- Gastronomes should visit the nearby town of Alcolea, home to the enlightening and appetising Museo del Aceite Carbonell (+34 957 320400). It’s a grand plantation house that offers three free tours through the history of olive oil production (plus lots of tastings) every weekday. Call in advance to book a place.
- Shopping
- For jewellery, silverware and traditional pottery, make a beeline to the labyrinthine lanes of the Judería (Jewish quarter), where you’ll find Arte Zoco (+34 95 720 4033), a collective of artisans and craftspeople you can watch in their workshops. Custom-made lather goods are found in Taller Meryan (+34 95 747 5902) on Calleja de las Flores, inside a 250-year-old building. Matilde Cano, (+34 95 749 2247) on Calle Gondomar that’s been bringing Andalucian innovation to the international catwalk for more than 30 years. Azzait (+34 95 776 7144) on Avenida Córdoba serves a selection of olive oil and olive oil-inspired products, such as soaps and candles.
- Daytripper
- If you develop a craving for the coast, the beaches of Málaga are less than an hour away by AVE train. The city is Picasso’s birthplace, and the two museums devoted to the artist (one a gallery, the other the house he was born in) are both worth an ogle. Have a tapas-tastic snack session at Gorki (+34 95 222 1466) on Calle Strachan; it’s always busy, but the fabulous food and fun atmosphere make it worth the squeeze. For a more heavy-duty lunch, head 12kms out of Malaga to the countryside in Churriana, where you’ll find Escuela de Hostería (+34 95 262 2562), a cooking school and restaurant that’s seen some of Spain’s most talented chefs pass through its hallowed halls. The gardens are gorgeous too.
- Perfect Picnic
- Stop for lunch on the tiny islands of Los Sotos de la Albolafia on the Rio Guadalquivir in the centre of the city. Originally used to house flour mills, today the islands are only inhabited by 40 species of birds, including endangered avians such as the glossy ibis and the purple gallinule. Take the riverbank walkways between the Puente Romano and Puente de San Rafael bridges and seek out a spot to settle among the trees. Stock up on deli delights at Bodegas Mezquita Tienda on Corregidor Luis de la Cerda (+34 95 749 8117) where you’ll find an array of Andalucian olive oils, cheeses, and wines, as well as bottles of montilla, the local sherry.
- Walks
- A stroll along the banks of the Guadalquivir is pleasant enough for an afternoon paseo, but more adventurous ramblers should strike out for the Medina Azahara about an hour away from Córdoba’s centre. Built in the 10th century by the Caliph of Córdoba, the ruined city and palace was once the blueprint for Andalucia’s Islamic architecture and makes for eye-opening wandering.
- Children
- The art- and architecture-heavy city is stunning to look at, but restless young minds may not get as much out of the gorgeous visuals as the grown-ups. Young Smiths can release their energies at La Ciudad de los Niños (+34 95 720 0807). Combining parkland with playground, it’s a large, supervised green space that’s ideal for outdoorsy little ones.
- Activities
- Head to the heart of the historic centre and sink into the hammam baths of the Medina Califal (www.hammamspain.com). The strikingly decorated building was once a Moorish house, and now contains one of the largest bathhouses in Europe, intended to recreate the sensuous days of Moorish rule. As well as the trio of bathing areas, (cold, temperate and hot water), there’s a massage area, restaurant and an Arab tearoom.
Diary
January Córdoba’s Christmas parade, the Cavalcade of the Three Kings, passes through the city early in the month. The mediaeval market takes over the main square a few weeks later, filling the streets with stalls, acrobats, jesters and peasants. March/April Semana Santa: Holy Week is an moving, incense-scented affair in Córdoba, with a series of street processions remembering the Passion. May is a big month for the Córdobese (especially in terms of horticulture), kicking off with the Battle of the Flowers parade, followed by the Las Cruces de Mayo celebrating the coming of spring, and the Córdoba Patio Festival, polished off by the late-May Feria, marked with fireworks and music. July The Córdoba Guitar Festival brings an international A-list of strummers to the city.
