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Marvellously Marrakech

Wander the labyrinthine souks – not just to barter for a rainbow of treasures, but to soak up the sights, sounds and smells of the medina, and to spy all the different craftsmen at work. But it’s not a shopping terrain for the faint-hearted: prepare to haggle your heart out. Good buys include leather bags and slippers, pierced metalwork and spices.

 

Don't go home without

… trying a hammam treatment, a traditional bathing ritual in which you are scrubbed with exotically scented savon noir (usually made with olive oil, and sometimes with added cedarwood, eucalyptus or cinnamon) and exfoliated until your skin is as soft as the proverbial new-born baby's.

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Worth getting out of bed for

Holidays in Marrakech, Morocco

Highlights the best Marrakech has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities; we've even found the most inspiring place to enjoy the views from.

Viewpoint
Café de France on Jemaa el-Fna is the most famous of the city’s coffee spots. It’s a little shabby round the edges, but the balcony is a classic perch from which to see the hurly-burly of this teeming main square in all its glory; go for a coffee at sunset and watch all the stalls setting up for the evening.

Arts and culture
The Jardin Majorelle in Guéliz (www.jardinmajorelle.com) was designed in the Twenties by French artist Jacques Majorelle, then restored by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, who lives, stylishly and privately, in Marrakech. Go early in the afternoon to avoid all the tourist buses; the Musée d'Art Islamique is also worth a peek, to see Majorelle's lithographs and the antique Berber pieces. Ben Youssef Medersa, in the medina, is a 14th-century Koranic school. It’s no longer in use, but is a beautiful building to visit, open 09h–18h.

Something for nothing
The main square, Place Jemaa el-Fna, comes to life at night, with snake-charmers, musicians, storytellers, magicians and acrobats galore. Enjoy some mint tea in the souks while you’re bartering, take your time, and let yourselves be as sweet and polite as you would be at home.

Shopping
Browsing the souks is the most fun way to shop, but those with extra retail-therapy needs might like to visit Beldi, at 9–11 rue Mouassine, for top-quality kaftans and cushion covers. Akbar Delights on Place Bab Fteuh is a boutique bursting with Indian fabrics, slippers, belts and jewellery. Moustafa Blaoui at 144 rue Dar el Bacha (near Bab Doukkala) is your best option for furniture, mirrors, poufs and throws; its entrance is marked only by the street number – just push open the studded wooden door to reveal the Aladdin's cave of Moroccan homewares within. For the most effective retail experience, enlist the services of Laetitia (+212 (0)74 217228; www.lalla.fr) who will help you source the most stylish goods. She also designs gorgeous bags and has a showroom in Guéliz; they’re stocked at Paul & Joe, but we say buy ’em here. Fans of soft-leather Tod's-style loafers and shoes should pay a visit to Attika on Rue de la Liberté in Guéliz; and you can have tailored leather jackets made at Sergio Balantcia on Boulevard el Mansour Eddahbi, also in Guéliz.

Daytripper
Most riads and hotels in Marrakech can arrange a day trip into the Atlas Mountains or to the lush Ourika Valley; you might have lunch in a Berber village and see wild monkeys.

Activities
Fallen in love with North African food? Spend a day learning how to rustle up Moroccan classics – including tagines – at Souk Cuisine in the medina (+212 (0)73 804955; www.soukcuisine.com). You'll shop for ingredients in the markets before being shown the ropes by a group of Moroccan women in a traditional riad; afterwards, you can take to the roof terrace with a glass of wine to smugly feast on your creations. Prefer something less hands-on? Take a hot-air balloon trip from the Palmeraie and float over the red-hued city at dawn or dusk for a sensational bird's eye view of the medina and the mountains; ask your hotel to arrange this before you arrive.

And...
See our feature on Marrakshi style in the members' section.

Diary

June/July Marrakech Popular Arts Festival is an annual week-long festival that sees dance troupes from all over the country perform in the city (www.visitmorocco.org). December The Marrakech Film Festival attracts screen stars from near and far (but mostly from France) to Morocco to celebrate all things celluloid (www.festival-marrakech.com).