Worth getting out of bed for
L’Avenida’s owners Tania and Paul can arrange all manner of amazing activities, and work with an excellent selection of companies, including Tramuntana Tours (+34 971 632423), which provides guided hiking and mountain biking in the mountains of northwest Mallorca. Other options include wine-tasting or helicopter tours, private boat charter, bike hire and gourmet trails around the island.
In Sóller, have a quick peek at Sant Bartomeu cathedral: the façade was designed by Rubio, who also created the unique bank building next door. Browse the boutiques along Carrer de san Lluna, off the square: we like Finca Gourmet at number 16 (+34 971 630 253), an artisan deli selling slabs of cocoa for hot chocolate, home-made honey and preserves, olive oils and wine. Across the street, +Ca'n Toni Reia has kitsch kitchen supplies and unusual Majorcan ceramics. Heymo at number 13 is the place to go for bargain-priced bags and shoes; once you've got one of those slick patent totes off the shelf, you can pass it off as something much more pricey.
Sóller has plenty of low-key bodegas and cafés if you just fancy a snack, but the port is only a few minutes away by taxi (or a pleasant tram ride) and offers more bang for your buck. Mr & Mrs Smith loved Agapanto’s (+34 971 633 860) romantic torchlit patio overlooking the sea on Camino del Faro. The menu features plenty of fresh seafood and fresh takes on traditional classics, and there’s often a live jazz band or a fun brunch event going on. The modern-luxe Bistro at Espléndido Hotel (+34 971 631850) on Es Traves uses local, seasonal ingredients to produce its international menu, and is by far the most stylish-looking option in the port. Es Passeig (+34 971 630217) on the port’s promenade has a German chef, a Spanish wine list and a creative modern Mediterranean menu (don’t have the Bling Bling Burger, though, unless your burger cravings are near-desperate). Try to get a table in the main room. You're also not far from Ca's Xorc (+34 971 638 280) on Carretera de Deia - it's very romantic to dine on this hotel's terrace among candlelit olive trees, and the views at sunset are spectacular.
Have a few cocktails at Esplendido Hotel’s cool bar and lounge in Sóller’s harbour (+34 971 631 850) before pottering along the prom for dinner – get there early to nab one of the cool swivel chairs by the windows, or have an after-dinner drink. Just along the shore, Agapanto (+34 971 633 860) is a lovely place for sundowners on a summer’s evening.
Sóller’s main square, Plaça Constitucio, is lined with cafés whose tables spill inwards across the flagstones around the gently tinkling fountain. Pick any one and park up with a caffé solo or a glass of something cold. La Vila at 14 (+34 971 634 641) has a pretty art nouveau café; go through to the courtyard restaurant out the back for a lunch of chilled gazpacho, tenderloin carpaccio and jam-packed panini.
If it’s clubs and DJ bars you want, you’ll have to go into Palma, about half an hour’s drive away.