On spring/autumn evenings, throw on a jacket to dine at the glamorous, crystal-strung Café de l’Homme in the Musée de l’Homme, 17 place du Trocadéro, 16ème (+33 (0)1 44 05 30 15; www.cafedelhomme.com), which is a two-minute walk from La Réserve Paris. If not, the fabulous terrace, with its incomparable eyeful of Eiffel, can be a bit chilly. Halfway up yer actual Iron Lady, Le Jules Verne (+33 (0)1 45 55 61 44) is a super-exclusive Alain Ducasse restaurant, where alpha Parisians dine on foie gras, turbot, soufflé and a praline 'nut' (as in bolt), among Patrick Jouin-designed luxury and Pininfarina chairs. A classic bistro nearby, La Fontaine de Mars, at 129 rue Saint-Dominique (+33 (0)1 47 05 46 44) leans toward the southwest of France, so you might eat black pudding with apple, cassoulet and rum baba. Aim to dine alfresco in summer. Chez l’Ami Jean at 27 rue Malar, 7ème (+33 (0)1 47 05 86 89) is the oldest Basque restaurant in Paris, now run by star chef Stéphane Jego, and beloved of a true cross-section of gourmets, who know their cochonnaille (major ham time), milk-fed Pyrenéan lamb and Basque wines. Another hotspot in the 7th, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon on rue de Montalembert (+33 (0)1 42 22 56 56) serves exquisitely sized and crafted dishes to glossy couples perched at the counter; no reservations. Back on the Right Bank, Le Cristal Room, in Place des États-Unis, 16ème (+33 (0)1 40 22 11 10) is a glittering dining room in the historic Baccarat brand HQ, with witty Starck decor and a lobstery, caviary menu. At the other end of the scale is Granterroirs at30 rue de Miromesnil, 8ème (+33 (0)1 47 42 18 18; www.granterroirs.com), a deli/lunch spot where smashing produce (800 foodie items in stock) and communal oak tables are a big hit. Another relaxed favourite, just off the Champs Elysées and open for lunch until 4pm during the week, Lô Sushi at 8 rue de Berri, 8ème (+33 (0)1 45 62 01 00; www.losushi.com) is an upmarket kaiten sushi joint, with plates priced €3 to €11.
Pershing Hall's Lounge Bar (+33 (0)1 58 36 58 00) is a dead cert for glamour and atmosphere, with its contemporary rococo decor, DJs and a stylish crowd. The restaurant is highly recommended, too. A space-age place to pose with a cocktail, in one of the city’s grande dame hotels, Le Bar in Plaza Athénée (+33 (0)1 53 67 66 00; www.plaza-athenee-paris.com) combines a long, blue-lit glass bar and high stools with comfortable leather armchairs. For something more dressed down, head to well-worn, retro Café le Basile at 34 rue Grenelle, 7ème (+33 (0)1 42 22 59 46), a favourite among students from the Sciences Po faculté over the road.
The cakes served at Galerie des Gobelins at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée (+33 (0)1 53 67 66 65; www.plaza-athenee-paris.com) include macaroons shaped like frisbees and religieuses on chocolate skateboards. The famed Ladurée, whose macaroons may be the holy grail of sweeties, has a fabulous Second Empire-style tearoom at 75 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 8ème (+33 (0)1 40 75 08 75; www.laduree.fr), where you can let yourself eat cake. At Mariage Frères on Rue des Grands Augustins (+33 (0)1 40 51 82 50; www.mariagefreres.com), you can sit down for a brew and also, transportingly, choose and purchase packets of their dozens of teas, in a ritual that never palls.