Eating, drinking and dancing
Here's a selection of some of our favourite restaurants and cafés in Tuscany; for more listings, also see our Florence destination guide.
Restaurants
Osteria Le Logge
A Sienese gourmet favourite for dinner, this landmark local restaurant has an airy dining room lined with clever wine-storing cabinets, and alfresco tables spilling onto the street outside. Pork dishes are a speciality: the owner rears his own rare-breed pigs. Reservations essential.
33 Via del Porrione, 53100 Siena, Tuscany
(+39 0577 48013)
Ristorante Le Logge del Vignola
Traditional Tuscan staples are given a modern spin at this intimate restaurant in Montepulciano. White tablecloths and excellent service make for a romantic meal; try lake-fish ravioli, home-made spelt pasta, salt-cod with chick pea farinata or roast sucking pig on deep-fried vermicelli. The tasting menus are excellent and everything on the à la carte sounds delicious – so make sure you're feeling decisive and have a big appetite.
6 via delle Erbe, Montepulciano, Tuscany
(+39 057 871 7290)
Latte di Luna
The best trattoria in Pienza by far, if you ask us – cosy, fun, cheap, delicious. The pici al Ragu (hand-rolled pasta in wild-boar sauce) is worth making a lengthy detour to devour. A long, relaxed lunch outside on the terrace on a summery day = perfection. Closed Tuesdays; booking essential.
2–4 via San Carlo, Pienza, Tuscany
(+39 0578 748606)
La Cantinetta di Rignana
This restaurant near Greve is a smart choice for typical Tuscan food in a rustic farmhouse setting, with lovely countryside views (try to get a table on the farmyard terrace if the weather's fine). Dishes use regional produce, most sourced from the farms of Rignana. Try rabbit or veal grilled over a wood fire, washed down with Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo. (Closed Tuesdays; www.lacantinettadirignana.it)
Località Rignana, Greve in Chianti
(+39 055 852601)
Beccofino
If you’re in Florence and fancy sophisticated Italian cooking in contemporary surroundings, visit Villa Bordoni’s sister restaurant in the Oltrarno district. It's also an upscale wine bar. For more Florence restaurant recommendations, check out Mr & Mrs Smith's Florence guide.
1 Piazza degli Scarlatti, 50125 Florence, Italy
(+39 055 290076)
Enoteca I Terzi
This traditional but incredibly elegant enoteca in the centre of Siena has nigh-on 1,000 different wines; try one of the tasting plates while you sit in the quiet mediaeval courtyard, or settle in for a delicious dinner of Tuscan specialities. Closed Sundays.
7 Via dei Termini, Siena, Italy
(+39 0577 44329)
Enoteca Pinchiorri
This legendary restaurant on Via Ghibellina is a pricey thrice-Michelin-starred wine-lovers’ paradise; grab a table on the jasmine-scented courtyard. Only open Tuesday, Thursday to Saturday.
Via Ghibellina 87, 50122, Florence, Italy
(+39 055 242 757)
La Locanda nel Cassero
This homely osteria not far from Paganico on the way to Grosseto is worth a detour if you're visiting the area; there are fantastic views from the town and seasonal dishes bursting with traditional flavour, all enhanced with local extra virgin olive oil. Home-made pasta is a speciality. Get a table on the terrace. (www.locandanelcassero.com)
29–31 Via del Cassero, 58045 Civitella Marittima (Paganico), Tuscany
(+39 0564 900680)
La Taverna di Campagna
A sweet enoteca and pizzeria near the Monte Antico train station, serving giant, tasty, traditional pizzas (none of that doughy deep-pan rubbish here, thank you very much) and rustic regional specialities.
10 Via Firenze, Monte Antico, 58045 Civitella Paganico, near Grosseto, Tuscany
(+39 0564 991030)
Ristoro di Lamole
Come here for authentic Tuscan cuisine (Chianini beef, roasted vegetable, handmade pastas), matched with a best-in-class selection of Chiantis and other regional wines. The food more than does justice to the amazing views across the countryside from the terrace – you can see as far as San Gimignano (www.ristorodilamole.it).
6 Via di Lamole, 50022 Lamole, nr Greve in Chianti, Tuscany
(+39 055 8547050)
Il Canto
Il Canto's chef has been hailed as one of Italy's top five, and he certainly punches above his weight at this slightly formal hotel restaurant. The main dining room is all gilt chandeliers and marble mantles; we love lunching in the rustic kitchen or on the pretty patio; for dinner, get a table in the courtyard cloisters. Menus focus on produce picked in the kitchen gardens.
Hotel Certosa di Maggiano, 82–86 Strada di Certosa, 53100 Siena, Tuscany
(+39 0577 288180)
Ristorante Poggio Antico
Fine wine and dining at the Poggio Antico winery, a five-minute drive from Montalcino, with gorgeous views across the vineyard to Monte Amiata. Opening times vary, so ring ahead to book a table for lunch or dinner and make a day of it by doing a tour of the estate while you're there (www.poggioantico.com).
53024 Montalcino (Siena), Tuscany
(+39 0577 848044)
Cafés
Pasticceria Nannini
Nannini’s patisserie in Siena is renowned for making the city's best panforte, cantucci and chewy, orange-infused almond riciarelli biscuits. This original outpost at Conca D’Oro opened in 1931 and is still the place to go for a coffee and a little something sweet, or an aperitif.
Great for: Typical Sienese biscuits and cakes
24 Via Banchi di Sopra, 53100 Siena, Tuscany
(+39 0577 236009)
Pasticceria Nannini
Another branch of Siena's best speciality patisserie; this one has tables at the back where you can sit and take your time over your Tuscan pastries. You could also have a light lunch here – sandwiches, wine and beer as well as ice-creams are all up for grabs - or stock up treats to take home.
42–44 Via Massetana Romana, 53100 Siena, Tuscany
(+39 0577 285208)
Bars and clubs
Enoteca Fuori Piazza
A charming little wine bar that serves simple, quality food - warm, welcoming and authentic.
Via I Maggio, 2, 50022, Greve in Chianti, Italy
(+39 055 854 6313)
Liberamente Osteria
With a fantastic position right on Siena's mediaeval Campo, wine bar Liberamente is a fun place to have a few drinks and watch the world go by. Pair your glass of wine with delicious plates of cured meats and cheeses, or have a light lunch with some prosecco. Open 11am–1am.
27 Piazza del Campo, 53100 Siena, Tuscany
(+39 0577 274733)