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Definitively Dublin

The Spire of Dublin, the world’s tallest sculpture, is worth risking a neck injury to view. The pin-like monument unveiled in 2003 rises 120 metres high over the city centre, and is loved and loathed in equal measure; poetic Dubliners (them again…) have dubbed it ‘the Stiletto in the Ghetto’ and ‘the Pin in the Bin’, a reference to the O’Connell Street area’s down-at-heel reputation.

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… pitching up for a pub ‘session’ on a Sunday morning: these are terrific drinking and singing marathons, with wall-to-wall Guinness, musicians, drums, spoons and enough heart-rending ballads about leaving the old country to bring a ton of tears to an American-Irishman’s eye. An excellent cure for a hangover – though a sure way to another one. Some ‘proper’ pubs include Auld Dubliner on Anglesea Street (+353 (0)1 677 0527); the Brazen Head on Bridge Street Lower (+353 (0)1 677 9549); and Davy Byrnes on Duke Street (+353 (0)1 677 5217), which appears in Ulysses.

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Getting there

City break, Dublin, Ireland

Planes, trains, automobiles, or maybe even helicopter – we tell you the best way to go.

Planes
Ryanair alone operates flights to Dublin from 17 airports around the UK (www.ryanair.com). A multitude of full-service carriers – including BMI (www.flybmi.com) and Aer Lingus (www.aerlingus.com) – operate direct services from major UK cities. A taxi from the airport is around €35. Dublin Airport Arrival Private Transfer will whisk you to your hotel in style for around €60. The price is for the vehicle, not per person, so isn’t much more expensive than queuing for a cab if you’re in a group (www.affiliate.viator.com).
Boats
The most direct driving route to Dublin from the UK involves taking a car ferry from either Holyhead – a route operated by both Stena Line (www.stenaline.co.uk) and Irish Ferries (www.irishferries.com), which crossing times starting at under two hours – or from Liverpool with P&O (www.poirishsea.com).
Trains
You can travel to Dublin from any rail station in Britain without flying, on a combined ‘rail and sail’ ticket; the journey includes the sea link from Holyhead in north Wales. Depending on the connecting ferry service, the London-to-Dublin trip takes upwards of seven hours (www.nationalrail.co.uk).
Automobiles
Parking is limited and the drive into the city can take ages, particularly if you don’t know where you’re going. Stick to cabs. Unless you’re combining your city break with a stay in the countryside, you certainly won’t need a car; and if you don’t want to fly, you’re far better off getting there by train (see above). Watch out for place names if you’re driving: most are bilingual, but some are only in Gaelic. We were lost in the country once and were advised to 'keep on the road you’re on and you’ll end up somewhere'. And sure enough, we did!

Hotels

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