Nihiwatu

Mr & Mrs Smith have a trip to this eco-friendly Sumba hideaway in the diary, and just as soon as they've unpacked their sarongs and sunscreen, a full account of their stay in Indonesia will be with you. In the meantime, just to whet your wanderlust, here's a quick postcard from this world-famous surfer’s paradise…

Further from the madding crowd than Hardy could ever have imagined, Nihiwatu occupies one of the most remote corners of the globe – a pocket of Sumbanese beachfront unreachable by commercial airline. The only access is from Bali on the resort’s own charter plane and, because flights only operate once a week, you have to stay for a minimum of seven days – not that that’s anything to complain about; Nihiwatu’s distance from… well, anything really is its strongest asset, and, once here, leaving is the last thing you want to do.

Although initially conceived as a dedicated surfer’s resort (the waves here evoke awed whispers in the surfing community), Nihiwatu is now a fully sustainable bastion of eco-conscious luxury, with thatched bungalows made from locally sourced and recycled materials, a hill-top pool with panoramic views of the cerulean sea, and a sand-floored communal dining area designed for fostering friendship and discussion. Many of Nihiwatu’s guests tear themselves away from surfing, diving or horse riding to get involved with local village life, visiting schools or bartering for the distinctive ikat blankets.

The native Sumbanese still practise ancestor-worship (but not, thankfully, head-hunting) and regularly perform dances, and ceremonial boxing on Nihiwatu’s beach (guests are sometimes even invited to attend the spectacular village funerals). The Nihiwatu experience stays with you long after you’ve climbed onto the tiny plane back to Bali – we’d call it ‘once in a lifetime’, but many guests just keep on coming back.