Sumba – Indonesia

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Suitably Sumba

Sumba is home to one of the last remaining animist societies in the world, and, despite a plague of colonial missionaries, many of its villagers still practise the ancient Marapu religion of ancestral worship. Look out for the distinctive shapes of the thatched Sumbanese houses: the tall, tapering roofs are represent the human head, whereas the four main wooden pillars anchoring it to the ground are viewed as legs. Western Sumba in particular is dotted with gigantic stone megaliths built in honour of the villages’ illustrious dead. A Sumbanese funeral (sometimes held while the subject is still alive) can be amazing to witness – assuming you have a stomach for several hours of ritual animal sacrifice.

Don't go home without

Birdwatching – Sumba is home to more than 300 species of birds, eight of which are unique to the island. Brightly coloured parrots, cockatoos and birds of paradise fill the forests – an impressive spectacle, even to the least twitcher-ish visitor.

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Sumba

Indonesia
Coastline
Powder sands and swirling seas
Coast Life
Surfing and spiritualism

‘Undiscovered tropical idyll’ barely does it justice – with perfect beaches, swirling cerulean surf and lush tropical forests, the refreshingly undeveloped island of Sumba is somewhere you’ll want to keep to yourself…

Even within the rest of Indonesia, the mention of Sumba tends to elicit blank looks. A couple of hours’ flight southeast of Bali, the island is little known and little visited compared to its more well-trodden neighbours on the archipelago, attracting mainly hardcore surfers who’ve heard rumours of its legendary breaks. Beyond the pristine untouched beaches and rideable waves, however, Sumba is full of unexpected joys. Its richly spiritual tribal culture dates back millennia, still preserving its ancient religion and megalithic burial tradition. The island’s forests brim with birdlife and its seas swarm with tropical fish, making it the ideal destination for nature lovers and scuba-junkies, but it’s the unspoilt tranquillity, the stunning scenery and the escapist air of romance that makes Sumba such a perfect pocket of paradise.

Pictured: Nihiwatu

Boutique hotels in Sumba

Our round-up of the hippest hideaways and boutique hotels in Sumba

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Sumba – Indonesia

Getting there

Sumba is quite a detour from the beaten path – we show you the best way to get there.

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Sumba – Indonesia

Worth getting out of bed for

Highlights the best Sumba has to offer, from art and culture to fun-packed activities.

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Sumba hotel map - Smith Maps

Smith Maps

Here is the map of Sumba; each Mr & Mrs Smith hotel is marked by a flag; click it for more details.

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Local knowledge

Taxis
As Sumba is still a relatively undeveloped island, it has no formal taxi service; you should always arrange for a car service with the resort.
Tipping culture
Tips are always appreciated but rarely expected. Hotels generally include a 21 per cent tax.
Packing tips
Indonesia is famously humid, so bring airy tropical wear. If you intend to go traipsing around the island and exploring the various villages, it is always wise (not to mention respectful) to dress conservatively.
Currency
Indonesian Rupiah (Rp)
Time zone
GMT + 8
Dialing codes
Country code: +62; area code: (0)868.
Do go/don't go
Although drier than many other areas of Indonesia, Sumba has a rainy season between January and March that is best avoided; April is the ideal time to visit.

Hotels

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