Astra Apartments and Suites

The best restaurants we ate in were in Oia: 1800 (best tables were in the courtyard which was more atmospheric - most people opt for the rooftop for the view however) and Ambrosia which were amazing! Great food and atmosphere, the latter with a great view (try and get the table in the left-hand corner as you go up the stairs - it has the best view). Vanilia in Firostefani was also a very good taverna. For lunch we tried Galini Cafe (+30 22860 22095) in Firostefani which was cute.

If staying in Imerovigli, you have to climb to the top of the rock, although you can also go down towards the sea which has a little church perched on the edge and makes for great pics. It's tucked away so not many people seem to see it or they cannot be bothered going all the way down the rock after they've been all the way up it!

We tried the 'relaxation room' at Astra and I have to say it was not really in keeping with the rest of the hotel which was generally very good.

Some of the restuarants to avoid were Remvi in Firostefani and Taverna Imerovigli which were more touristy and not serving great food.

There is plenty of good eating to be had in Santorini. George, Astra's amiable host, offers a very helpful guide of where to go and what to do when you arrive. We took on most of his advice over the seven delightful days we stayed here: if paradise is like staying at Astra, then that will do us. Touristy Oia, which is a must to visit, has a rather daunting 250 steps to the beach – this may feel like a little too much like hard work, but it's really worth it at the bottom. Aim for the slightly guady restaurant at the end of the very small bay. Sit by the crystal-clear waters, eat the freshest fish, and enjoy the Santorini wine, which is heaven in a glass. The very friendly staff will get a cab for you to save walking up the steps at the end.

Locally, go to the Vanilia at Firostefani (+30 22860 25631) which we did three times. Friendly staff (you'll get used to it, everyone is friendly), good Mediterranean food and that wine again. Finally, a must-visit is Selene at Fira (+30 22860 22249). Take a fat wallet with you, you'll need it, but the food is exceptional. We ate out on the terrace, enjoying food that felt very local in origin, but wasn't on other restaurants' menus. A complete treat.

To get to Fira, enjoy the walk direct from Astra. It's about half an hour. And go on the sailing ship. It was surprisingly enjoyable and although we were a little anxious that we would be trapped for a few hours, the amusing host kept us quite happy, informed and fed, while sailing us around the islands.

I would strongly recommend using the helpful staff at Astra Apartments to book tables for dinner, as even the humble tavernas can be packed, especially the seating areas outside. Taverna Imerovigli has great food and is relaxed, but we were quite disappointed with restaurants in Firostefani, particularly Vanilia.