Eating, drinking and dancing
We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Paris. All you have to do is make sure you've packed your favourite threads…
Restaurants
Benoit
Open since 1912, and now part of the Ducasse group, this traditional brasserie-style restaurant is arguably the best of its kind in Paris. It's great for lunch – the food is fantastic and so is the company – Mrs Smith was delighted to see Liam Neeson dining at the next table. Ask for a window seat and watch out for famous passers-by.
20 rue St Martin, 75004 Paris
(+33 (0)1 42 72 25 76)
Le Petit Prince
This charming Saint-Germain eaterie is slightly out of the way, but more than worth the effort for classic French cuisine, cheery service and great desserts.
12 Rue Lanneau, Paris 75005
(+33 1 43 54 77 26)
Senderens
Alain Senderens had three Michelin stars, but, having made his mark and wanting to do his own thing, he gave them all back, closed his restaurant and opened this modern brasserie-style restaurant instead. Needless to say, the food is amazing, and the setting blends trad French with deco-tinged futuristic – the venue was designed by Noé Duchaufour Lawrance, the creative talent behind Sketch in London. Get a table for two in the side room off to the left.
9 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 42 65 22 90)
Market
A French and Asian (not fusion) menu in a very relaxed, modern and artful setting designed by Christian Liaigre. It’s buzzy at lunchtime and in the evenings, so you’ll need a reservation. Ask for a window seat.
15 Avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 56 43 40 90)
Le Chiberta
This Guy Savoy restaurant moments from the Champs Elysées serves up beautifully prepared classic French cuisine. The setting is slightly formal, and it’s a ‘dress for dinner’ place, but the atmosphere is relaxed. Sip fine wine at the bar before taking your table and sampling dishes from frog’s legs to grapefruit terrine, via roast venison.
3 rue Arsène Houssaye, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 53 53 42 00)
Le Comptoir
A cosy, relaxed Moroccan bar and restaurant with low-level seating, a fun atmosphere and flattering candlelight. If North African tagines and curries are not your thing, there are other international and French dishes to choose from. It’s always busy, but try to make sure you get a table away from the kitchens (noisy) and the main entrance (draughty).
37 rue Berger, 75001 Paris
(+33 (0)1 40 26 26 66)
Le Fumoir
This classic restaurant and bar behind the Louvre is much-loved and packed by night; come for a relaxed champagne brunch instead. Avoid tables by the door if possible.
6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 75001 Paris, France
(+33 (0)1 42 92 00 24)
La Cantine du Faubourg
This restaurant is a favourite with celebs, serving Asian and French fusion in a stylish lounge; it's also ideal for a pre-prandial drink.
105 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
(+33 (0)42 56 22 22)
Maison Blanche
This popular place on Avenue Montaigne is a sleek all-white eatery with views over the city, and of the Eiffel Tower from some tables. Book in advance.
15 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)47 23 55 99)
Restaurant Georges
For incredible cityscape views, try this stylish postmodern restaurant serving international cuisine at the top of the Richard Rogers' Centre Pompidou, open till 1am. Reservations essential.
Centre Pompidou, Place Georges Pompidou, 75191 Paris
(+33 (0)1 44 78 47 99)
Le Grand Véfour
This gourmet brasserie is a beautiful, traditional French hang-out that has been open since the reign of Louis XV; head here for lunch (closed at weekends), for chef Guy Martin's classic French and Alpine dishes.
17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001 Paris
(+33 (0)1 42 96 56 27)
Les Papilles
This wonderful space is part wine shop and épicerie, and part restaurant serving excellent bistro dishes. Pop in for a verre du vin and great-value prix-fixe menu beneath shelves of tinned foie gras, jars of mustard and flasks of olive oil.
30 Rue Gay-Lussac, 75005 Paris
(+33 (0)1 43 25 20 79)
La Cristal Room Baccarat
Philippe Starck-designed bar and restaurant, in a crystal gallery-cum-shop (extravagant chandeliers, grand revamped interiors); seasonal French fare. Book ahead.
11 Place des États-Unis, 75116 Paris
(+33 (0)1 40 22 11 10)
Kong
Another great Philippe Starck effort with a flower-filled Perspex bar amd jaunty Japanese pop vibe, this relaxed and hip restaurant and bar over the Kenzo store overlooking Pont-Neuf; request a table on the upper floor by the glass roof.
1 rue du Pont-Neuf, 75001 Paris
(+33 (0)1 40 39 09 00)
Cafés
Maison de la Truffe
This small deli cum café sells truffles in every size, shape and style, as well as other gourmet treats. The café menu is chock-full of truffle-inspired dishes – a lunch-time must for fans of the delicious walnutty delicacy.
19 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 42 65 53 22)
Hédiard
The epicerie and traiteur par excellence, this deli sells mouthwatering treats in signature red packaging. Chocolates, fruits, wine, cheeses, hams and freshly-ground coffees all create a considerable problem for the indecisive shopper. There are several branches in Paris, but at Place de la Madeleine there is also an informal restaurant upstairs, in which to sample the fine French fare.
21 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 43 12 88 88)
Ladurée Royale
Beloved of fashionistas for its melt-in-the-mouth macaroons in pretty pastel colours, this is original outpost of Ladurée, the chocolatier and tea shop. Founded in 1862, it was the first Parisian café to welcome women through its doors. The 19th-century frescos, inspired by the Sistine Chapel, have been beautifully restored, and provide a grand setting for fancy-sandwich brunches or sugar-coated high teas. There are also branches on the Champs Elysées and on the rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain.
16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 42 60 21 79)
Les Deux Magots
Another Saint-Germain institution, this literary café takes its name not from an unwelcome salad addition but from a popular 19th-century play. As well as French literary giants, this is the place where Paul Eluard first introduced Picasso to Dora Maar. Get acquainted with your muse over a glass of wine and the plat du jour.
6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés, 75006 Paris
(+33 (0)1 45 48 55 25)
Brasserie Lipp
Café-culture hunters will want to stop for a quick crème, cognac or sole meunière at Lipp, the third of Saint-Germain's 'big three' cafés and a left-bank icon.
151 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
(+33 (0)1 45 48 53 91)
Café de Flore
One of the most famous cafés in Paris, Flore was the favoured hangout of some of France’s most important artists, writers and philosophers, including Guillaume Apollinaire, André Breton, Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sastres. Pop in for a lunchtime omelette or cheese plate and watch the world go by.
172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
(+33 (0)1 45 48 55 26)
Bars and clubs
Le Bar du Plaza Athénée
In the chicest of cities, the chicest people of head to this sleek rendez-vous at the grande dame Hôtel Plaza Athénée to gossip over cocktails. Interiors by Patrick Jouin and drinks by Paris' most capable bartenders make it a popular venue with Paris' power players, so you'll have to dress to impress to secure entry.
25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 53 67 66 65)
VIP Room
Formerly a cinema foyer, this club underwent a hugely expensive refurb to become Paris' most popular style bar. The interiors are glossy, dramatic and as futuristic as a sci-fi film set.
78 Avenue Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
(+33 (0)1 56 69 16 66)
Panoramic Bar
On the 33rd floor of the Concorde La Fayette hotel, this bar has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe.
3 Place du Général Koenig, 75017 Paris
(+33 (0)1 40 68 50 68)