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Marvellously Montreal

Pardon our French – Montreal’s Catholic upbringing shows itself in one of the most unlikely aspects of city life: swearing. While the Francophones of Paris may lean towards the scatological when frustrated, Montrealers look heavenward. Some choice expletives include ‘tabarnac’ (tabernacle), ‘calisse’ (chalice) and ‘hostie’ (the host).

Don't go home without

…Sampling poutine. This Quebecois delicacy consists of French fries and cheese curds topped with generous lashings of gravy. It’s best enjoyed as a late-night post-bar snack, but you can guarantee La Banquise (www.restolabanquise.com), which serves more than 25 varieties of the dish, will be open no matter what time the craving hits.

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Eating, drinking and dancing

We've tracked down the best cafés for people-watching, the bars with the coolest cocktails, the most accomplished restaurants and the liveliest local nightlife in Montreal.

Restaurants

L’Entrecote St-Jean

Sticking to a simple classic French bistro menu has reaped dividends for this smart little eaterie; its steak-frites is invariably excellent.

2022 Rue Peel, Montreal H3A 2W5
(+1 514 281 6492)


Jun I

Amazing sushi to be had at this Mile End establishment ¬¬– Montreal's most accomplished Japanese kitchen. It’s close to Baldwin Barmacie, so you can always head there for post-prandial cocktails.

156 Avenue Laurier Ouest, Montreal H2T 2N7
(+1 514 276 5864)


Reservoir

In-the-know Montrealers can regularly be found brunching at this relaxed rustic bistro on Saturdays and Sundays. As well as its hearty snacks and meals, it’s built up a reputation for its tasty microbrews, made on the premises.

9 Rue Duluth Est, Montreal H2W 1G7
(+1 514 849 7779)


La Sala Rosa

When you get tired of all those French bistros, head here for Spanish culinary favourites such as tapas and paella. Every Thursday sees flamenco dancers take to the stage while you dine.

4848 Boulevard St-Laurent, Montreal H2T 1R6
(+1 514 844 4227)


Cafés

Santropol

Founded purely to prevent a building being knocked down by developers, this alternative café has (almost inadvertently) become one of the most celebrated in town. The excellent coffee is produced in the roasting house next door (and available to buy by the bag). There’s a wide-ranging menu of inventive sandwiches too – try the triple-deckers. Open until midnight.

3990 Rue St-Urbain, Montreal H2W 1T7
(+1 514 842 3110)


Kitchen Galerie

Being right beside the market means that the food at this laid-back café-restaurant is as fresh as it gets. Its three staff act as chefs and waiters.

60 Rue Jean-Talon Est, Montreal
(+1 514 315 8994)


Schwartz’s

Montreal’s famed Hebrew deli has been serving its deliciously spiced smoked meat on the same spot for 75 years, and still the punters are queuing out the door. Sandwiches and platters come in ‘lean’, ‘medium’, or ‘fatty’ – throwback to a quainter, size-zero-free era.

3895 St Laurent Boulevard, Montreal H2W 1X9
(+1 514 842 4813)


Bars and clubs

Bily Kun

A quirky hotspot with a great vibe – eerie ostrich heads peer down at you from the walls, and in the evening indie DJs take over from the jazz and classical performers of the daytime.

354 Avenue du Mont-Royal Est, Montreal
(+1 514 845 5392)


Laika

A very trendy little place that’s as satisfying for a coffee in the afternoon as it is for sipping evening cocktails with fashionable young locals catching up-and-coming DJs.

440 Boulevard St Laurent, Montreal H2W 1Y8
(+1 514 842 8088)


Tokyo Bar

A long-standing favourite of the Montreal night scene, thanks to a combination of great DJs, an open-air terrace and a fabulous martinis.

3709 Boulevard St Laurent, Montreal H2X 2V7
(+1 514 842 6838)


Pubs