Tower Lodge

Are you the kind of person who notices the little things? Who cares about the smaller gestures, knows the difference between track and down lighting and is appreciative of the thread count of sheets? If so, Tower Lodge in the Hunter Valley is a luxury hotel that will suit you perfectly. This, I thought as we drove through the pillared gates, is a place designed around the finer “details”.

Len Evans, Australian wine-industry guru and bon vivant, recently passed away, but his legacy remains. Renowned for his efforts to push the Australian wine industry ahead, he was revered for his passion and sense of fun. Tower Lodge is a part of Tower Estate, the winery he launched in 1999 that also comprises Robert’s Restaurant and Blaxland’s Restaurant. It is sophisticated and stylish, yet extremely comfortable; from the moment you walk through the massive double wooden doors, you feel as though you are staying at an elegant country manor, but one with a twist.

Mr Smith and I are drawn to the large open fireplace which divides the entrance from the lodge living areas. Large comfy sofas and ottomans in rich fabrics with elegant mohair throws are just begging to be sprawled on. A well-stocked sidebar runs along one side, and floor-to-ceiling windows, fine art and ornate mirrors give the Lodge a style most aptly described as ‘Vogue’ meets ‘Horse & Hound’.

With time you start to appreciate the distinctive personality imprinted upon Tower Lodge. A Tuscan-villa-inspired central courtyard with pretty water fountain and sandstone paving also contains a two-person carriage sans horses.  A large gas canister has been converted into the Lodge’s gong, and backgammon and croquet sets whisper of lazy afternoons. Crystal chandeliers descend from high vaulted ceilings; bowls of fresh fruit and flowers abound. A framed photo of Len Evans in fancy dress as a French king stands next to wine books both scholarly and silly – including one on the dogs of Australian wineries. Everywhere we turn, there is some little luxury or quirk to draw the eye. Our oversized bronze keys ensure even that the most absent-minded guest can’t misplace them,

Our room is furnished with quality antiques, the mélange of styles continuing with botanical paintings of grape varieties next to an Etruscan-style frieze at the head of the bed, and a bronze statue of a deer. A second level leads to the kingsize bed, plump with pillows and dressed with crisp white sheets and duvet. “Nice big spa bath!” Mr Smith exclaims as I ponder whether it would be so terrible to prune up in the spa with the essential oil burning, don one of the thick white dressing gowns provided and crawl under the bedcovers for the entire weekend to read a good, trashy novel…

The promise of afternoon tea draws us out of our room. There are 12 guestrooms in the lodge, but we fel the whole place is ours, as we spend an indulgent few hours sipping tea from fine china and eating thick slices of chocolate and walnut cake in the small alcove sitting room. Not a peep from any of the other guests.

Rainy weather rules out much outdoor activity, but there is enough room on the grounds for an 18-hole short putting course (complete with golf buggy) called, irreverently, ‘The Dinks’. There’s also a mile-long walking path and a 12-metre swimming pool with spa, sauna and massage facilities. Another time, I murmur to myself as I embrace indolence wholeheartedly.

After an indulgent spa where I tip half the bath salts in (well, I am on holiday), we head for dinner at local restaurant Terroir, booked for us by Tower Lodge. We are advised of complimentary drinks, and that the room will be refreshed and bed turned down for our return – that is code for chocolate and Muscat nightcap. We find out later from another guest at dinner that, if required, we can ring back to the hotel and request they fill the spa for our return. Very thoughtful.

The generosity of spirit is not restricted to Tower Lodge. While Terroir’s staff are young, they are welcoming and genuine. The wine list is expansive and fair, with bottles from $50 to $350. My crab and duck-egg linguine and Mr Smith’s organic chicken in soy stock are filling and tasty.

Morning brings with it a sleep-in as the rain continues. We meet some of the other guests as everyone tucks into their choice of hot breakfast – eggs Benedict with crispy bacon, wholemilk berry pancakes with crème fraîche and grilled banana are our choices – and a selection of fresh fruit and Danishes.

This is wine country, Mr Smith reminds me, so we’d better go and actually taste some. First stop is Tower Estate Wines, whose vintages reflect the panache we have come to expect. A deliciously sparkly Moscato for brunch is my pick. We visit Poole’s Rock, Tempus Two and Tulloch Wines, buying several bottles of semillon (world-class, and a Hunter speciality), cabernet and chardonnay. Like good shoes, you can never have too much good wine. A final lunch at Esca overlooking Bimbadgen Estate yields a feast of stuffed and lightly fried zucchini flowers, spit-roasted duck and spinach and pumpkin gnocchi.

The Hunter Valley’s sprawling vineyards and villages make an ideal setting for a weekend ‘in the country’. Tower Lodge succeeds in making each guest feel like lord and lady of the manor, with luxurious space, attention to detail, and focus on sheer comfort. It is possibly the best place to be during a grey and dreary weekend, where you can pretend that life is really all about log fireplaces, tasty food and good wine – just as it should be.

As featured on our television programme The Smiths' Hotels for 2 for Discovery Travel and Living.