SHOPPING: Souk fabulous |
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Marrakech, a shoppers' paradise
Up there with New York, Bangkok and Southall, Marrakech is one of our favourite shopping destinations in the world. That’s not just because it’s a full-on treasure chest of fabulous fashion accessories, leather goods, ceramics, lanterns, antiques and oddities, but also because shopping here is super-fun. The souks are thrilling and unsanitised, the sights and sounds feel exotic to outsiders, and the salesmen can be amusing to do business with, especially if you leave the cynicism at home. If time is short or you aren’t in the mood for fun, the new town of Guéliz is the professionals’ choice for fixed-price buys (with air-con); and if you’re planning a serious carpet mission, we’d send you to Azrou in the north. But you’ve got to love Marrakech’s medina, proof that our planet is far from a homogenised mall: where else does buying sandals allow you glimpses into leafy courtyards, banter with wisecracking kids, and even occasional awakenings of your sense of mystery? Marrakech isn’t as cheap as it once was, but we reckon this forms an equation with the diminishing ‘backpacker to big spender’ ratio that makes a crazy shopping spree in its inspiring streets less exploitative and more feelgood — so let’s head for the souks and haggle with honour. Navigating the souks You’ve gotta get lost, and we’re not just saying that because we did… Enter the medina via Bab Fteuh (left of Café Argana), and to your left and right there are two main drags leading northish: Rue Mouassine and Rue Semmarine, which becomes Souk El Kebir, at the point where a left fork takes you up Souk El Attarin; the little runways between these two and the Souk des Babouches are known as the Kissaria. Running west from here towards Mouassine is the Souk des Teinturiers. Around Bab Fteuh and up Rue Mouassine are some stylist-friendly jewellery and fashion stops. Souk Semmarine is a broad, busy main drag for textiles, carpets and souvenirs. Souk El Kebir and Kissaria are more warrenlike, with stalls selling kaftans, carpets and blankets, some appealing shoulderbags and handbags, and carpenters and woodturners at work. For leather and synthetic babouches slippers, head to… the Souk des Babouches. Souk El Attarin means ‘spice market’ but it is now a centre for touristic bric a brac. At the northern end of the old town, Souk El Khemis is the fleamarket where you never know what you’ll find. Shops we like
Here are a few recommended places where, though you’ll spend a little more than at a random stall, the quality and style will please you. Haggling isn’t expected in most of these places, though if you are nice and you buy in bulk, you may get a discount. Get personal We highly recommend hiring a personal shopper. Bordeaux-born Laetitia Trouillet (pictured) moved to Marrakech a couple of years ago to set up her fashion brand, Lalla, which combines Moroccan craftsmanship with French fashion savvy. Her knowledge of the souks and boutiques, ability to pick out the quality from the dross, and well-tuned navigating and bartering skills are worth paying for. Whether you are thinking about some big purchases, or you are souk beginners with a clue, her fee, starting at €200 a day, based on two people, including transport, could be the best money you will spend in Marrakech. Don’t leave your riad without her. Contact Laetitia directly on +212 74 21 72 28; www.lalla.fr; email laetitiatrouillet@yahoo.co.uk. Smithcard offer |
