FOOD & DRINK: 10 hotels with great chefs
Savouring the cuisine is every bit as much a part of the boutique hotel experience as trying out the bed and slipping toiletries into your bag. But which hotels have a secret weapon in the kitchen? Rufus Purdy rounds up his favourite food stars
01
Oustau de Baumanière
Where is it? Provence, France
What's cooking? This beautiful boutique hotel is set in the gorgeous lavender-swathed countryside of southwest Provence. World-famous for its haute cuisine, it is home to a two Michelin-starred restaurant, where chef patron Jean-André Charial prepares a constantly changing regional menu that might include anything from spring vegetables in a tomato and truffle seasoning to Costieres pigeon with glazed turnip and beetroot.
Room rates €230–€555
02
Pool House
Where is it? Wester Ross, Scotland, UK
What's cooking? Situated beside a loch on the west coast of Scotland, this intimate escape (it has just seven suites) is surely one of the UK’s most idyllic dining spots. Reserve a table in the North by North West restaurant and you'll not only get to indulge in head chef John Moir’s innovative take on Highland cuisine (Loch Ewe lobster on a seafood risotto, haggis with a Drambuie sauce) – you’ll also find yourself watching otters and seals play on the shoreline in front of you.
Room rates £200–£450
03
Little Good Harbour
Where is it? Barbados, Caribbean
What's cooking? A stylish but down-to-earth boutique hotel overlooking the bright blue waters of the Caribbean Sea, Little Good Harbour is far more than a place in which to turn up and flop out. The Fish Pot, in the midst of the hotel’s luxury guest cottages, is one of the finest restaurants on the island. Ask for a table on the terrace and treat yourself to Stephen Belgrave’s seafood-dominated selection, which includes delicious tempura-fried crab, shrimp with black bean and red curry sauce, and straight-from-the-sea bouillabaisse.
Room rates $237–$895
04
Masseria Torre Coccaro
Where is it? Puglia, Italy
What's cooking? A historic farmhouse hotel in sun-baked southeast Italy, Masseria Torre Coccaro is the ideal spot for family breaks, as well as romantic getaways. But everyone who comes here – whether they're forking morsels into their lover’s mouth or mopping sauce off their child’s face – adores the Puglian cuisine served up in the Egnathia restaurant. Oysters with parmesan, squid-ink spaghetti, freshly picked organic vegetables and oil made from the olive trees that are everywhere in this part of the world… it’s the food of daydreams. And you can even learn how to recreate it in the hotel’s on-site cookery school.
Room rates €262–€1,272
05
Gidleigh Park
Where is it? Devon, UK
What's cooking? This beautiful 24-room country house hotel, situated amid the wilderness of Dartmoor, offers one of the finest dining experiences in southwest England. Chef Michael Caines has earned two Michelin stars for the hotel’s restaurant – as well as an MBE for himself – through his dedication to food. His innovative, seasonal menu changes constantly and zealously features the freshest local products. You might start with ravioli of Brixham crab and move on to Devon beef or Cornish sea bass – washing it all down with a selection from one of the most extensive wine lists in the UK.
Room rates £290–1,050
06
Toile Blanche
Where is it? Côte d’Azur, France
What's cooking? This extremely intimate boutique hotel on the French Riviera has just six rooms, and contrasts a striking and stylish interior – all bold colours and modern-art-covered walls – with its rustic garden and traditional exterior. It’s a wonderful combination. This blend of old and new is echoed in the restaurant, where the Leroy brothers prepare inventive dishes that play with the traditions of French haute cuisine. There’s a limited selection of choices each day – based on which ingredients are fresh and seasonal – but, rest assured, these are chefs you can trust.
Room rates €145–€250
07
Whatley Manor
Where is it? Wiltshire, UK
What's cooking? In a grade II-listed building, this West Country boutique hotel and spa comes with atmosphere and ambience in spades. It also comes with a renowned Michelin-starred restaurant, the Dining Room, where head chef Martin Burge, formerly of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, dishes up a classic Gallic menu. Try the snails served with garlic cassonade, or the nage of fish in an oyster and champagne sauce. It’s a little corner of France en route to Stonehenge.
Room rates £285–£850
08
Château de Bagnols
Where is it? Beaujolais, France
What's cooking? This luxury château hotel near Lyon is surrounded by the famous vineyards of Beaujolais and a host of world-class restaurants. You’re unlikely to want to leave the castle, though, as the Michelin-starred La Salle des Gardes – situated in a former guards’ room and spilling out onto a south-facing terrace – is just a short stroll away from your bedroom. Here, executive chef Matthieu Fontaine prepares Modern French cuisine – milk-fed Pyrenean lamb, lake-fish bouillabaisse – as well as regional dishes, and spit-roasted meat and game. There is, of course, an excellent list of Beaujolais grands crus and Burgundies.
Room rates €445–€2,500
09
Casa Tua
Where is it? Miami, US
What's cooking? A Mediterranean revival-style boutique hotel in Miami’s South Beach art deco district, Casa Tua is a relaxed, European-influenced retreat with just five rooms. The restaurant, occupying adjoining ground-floor rooms, is equally intimate. Chef Sergio Sigala sends out classic Italian and Mediterranean dishes – spaghetti with Maine lobster, veal ossobuco with risotto, panna cotta – from his bustling open kitchen. Savour your food out on the candlelit terrace if you’re more romantically inclined.
Rates $750–$1,050
10
Chewton Glen
Where is it? Hampshire, UK
What's cooking? This renowned boutique hotel in the New Forest is poised halfway between rural retreat and seaside sanctuary, mingling classic country style with a splash of spa chic. Its restaurant Marryat – named after Children of the New Forest author and former hotel guest Captain Frederick Marryat – has earned plaudits from Egon Ronay and envy from hundreds of chefs across the Continent. Chef Luke Matthews’ classic British menu – including ravioli of Scottish scallops, Dover sole, and apple and blackberry crumble – is an essential gastronomic experience.
Room rates £404–£1,015