Venice Carnival

Venice Carnival is utterly incomparable: enchanting, filmic, and played out against the most evocative and dreamlike backdrop imaginable. For 10 days, just as it has since the 11th century, this watery city hosts a Mardi Gras whirl of masked mingling, with drinking, dancing and debauching, reaching a climax at the decadent last-weekend balls. As well as the masquerades, there are concerts, plays, sound systems and a phenomenal closing fireworks display, raining luminous stars over the lagoon. Casanova’s days may be long gone, but there’s still a libidinal energy in the city during Carnival, and, as you meander through misty alleyways or waltz across a palatial ballroom, we defy you not to live out at least a few fantasies.

Highlights

For the first-timer, we suggest visiting on the last weekend, when the grander parties take place. Book tickets for one, or all, of the three big ones: the Ridotto Ball, with its historical group dances; the official Tiepolo Ball, which ties in with the year's theme (see www.meetingeurope.com); or the Ballo del Doge, arguably the most lavish party of the festival (www.ballodeldoge.com). There are entertainments (some free) on tap throughout Carnival: world music from baroque to big bands and bagpipes; theatrical and acrobatic performance; poetry readings; brunches in period costume; gala dinners and, of course, the masked balls.

In The Know

Head Count

Venice’s population of around 250,000 can double during Carnival.

Meeting Point

Hook up at the celebrated Harry’s Bar (+39 041 528 5777; www.cipriani.com) for a warming whisky, or a Bellini (this is where the very first one was made).

Best View

Piazza di San Marco, aka St Mark’s Square, is the heart of both the city and the Carnival. This is where the festivities commence – with a young girl in angel costume descending on the crowd – as well as being the site of some of the best live performances, parades, free theatre and the celebrated outdoor ball.

Packing Tips

Venice naturally requires a little forethought in the wardrobe department. First: don’t forget how chilly February is. Second: practicality be hanged, this is a big, sexy fancy-dress party – and you shall go to the ball. There are places in town where you can rent costumes, but Carnival regulars wouldn’t dream of it, preferring to spend months hemming flounces and fine-tuning masks (never mind the fact that hire charges in Venice can be exorbitant). Renaissance and 18th-century costumes are the traditional choices. If you are shy about donning the full regalia, a black cape and mask should suffice, but Carnival is about participation, and it'd be a shame not to join in properly.

Escape

The island of Torcello is the classic place to head for an afternoon of peace and quiet when La Serenissima is less than serene. Now largely deserted, it was as much a contender as Venice back in the day, until plague and invasions took their toll. For calm upon calm, spend five minutes sitting in its 11th-century cathedral. To get there, take the LN vaporetto to Burano, then the T to Torchello.

Dos and don'ts

• See the real, everyday Venice and take an early-morning stroll through the Rialto Fish Market (open mornings Tuesday to Saturday). Once a grand bazaar for treasures from the Orient, it now sells fresh everything-from-the-sea to some of the canniest shoppers on the planet.
• Dance the minuet among European aristocracy at the Ballo del Doge. How do you tell who’s a princess and who’s a pauper? They’ve been asking that since 1508…
• Visit the 18th-century Caffè Florian on St Mark’s Square dressed in your finest powdered wig. This legendary coffee house is the place to see and be seen at Carnival, and where well-dressed habitués convene before heading out to party.

Need To Know

Children

Venice Carnival’s night-time revelry isn’t geared towards young children, and the narrow streets can become incredibly congested. However, hotels do usually offer babysitting services for those who want to go to the ball. During the day, family-friendly events often centre around the Campo San Polo, with entertainers and activities for children – past years have seen the square host a huge circus, an enchanted forest and a temporary ice rink.

Parking

The centre of Venice is car-free, so for once there’s no need to worry about parking.

Disability Access

Wheelchair accessibility in much of the city leaves a lot to be desired; bridges in particular are tricky to negotiate without assistance, and although some have wheelchair lifts, these are not always working. Speak to your hotel before you book to check what facilities they have.

Food & Drink

La Caravella (+39 041 520 8366; www.hotelsaturnia.it) is a traditional, upmarket spot with a classic menu and a heated courtyard for year-round alfresco dining.

Sleep

Ca Maria Adele in the tranquil arts quarter of Dorsoduro is a romantic Smith favourite. DD724 provides a contemporary contrast with the Renaissance splendour of its setting. Go to www.mrandmrssmith.com, or ring 0845 034 0701, for more details and to make reservations.

VIP

Most Carnival events are run by the Consorzio Comitato per il Carnevale di Venezia (+ 39 041 524 2668; www.meetingeurope.com), which runs an online ticket-application process that includes questions about your age and language ability, in order to ensure you are seated with like-minded individuals. If you are intent on serious luxury, contact Robert Broad Travel (0845 003 2214; www.luxuryadventures.co.uk) for private jet packages.